script56 Posted October 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 Do you guys use spray cans or have your own spray guns that you use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genek Posted October 23, 2013 Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 Used to have a gun, but haven't worked in lacquer in years. If those were mine, I'd take them to someone with a gun and a booth. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ra.ra Posted October 24, 2013 Report Share Posted October 24, 2013 Ditto to what genek said - - - you have a really primo pair of very early AR speakers in a rare finish and in great shape, and they deserve all the care and attention you can provide. Also, regarding the sheen of finish, I would second the notion that a high gloss is not the preferred option - - - semi-gloss or satin would be better - - - you want to feel like you are looking at real wood rather than a coating on wood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
script56 Posted October 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2013 I am thinking about getting the Mohawk pour n wipe jkent spoke of and using it on separate wood sample. Not sure the cost of it but may be about the same as taking to woodworker to coat professionally. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted October 24, 2013 Report Share Posted October 24, 2013 The Mohawk Pour 'n Wipe is Tom Tyson's recommendation. I've never used it but I trust his recommendation (after all, he does have one of his speakers displayed in the Smithsonian!).I agree with ra "you want to feel like you are looking at real wood rather than a coating on wood", so satin would be the way to go. You don't want high gloss unless you plan to buff it with pumice or rotten stone to get a low luster.As far as having a pro do the work, that's a good way to go but I have become a real fan of Minwax aerosol lacquer. It is very easy to apply and dries very fast. And it's very unlikely you can harm the speakers with this clear coating. Worst case scenario you strip it off with lacquer thinner.The OP said he has sprayed a motorcycle gas tank. So I assume he has the spraying technique and he has some cardboard masks to protect the drivers. IMHO it's much more difficult to get a good automotive type paint job on a gas tank than to spray some clear lacquer on a wooden box.YMMV.Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ar_pro Posted October 24, 2013 Report Share Posted October 24, 2013 Agree with Kent.I've also used the Minwax Satin aerosol, with very good results - it's virtually foolproof, and gives a smooth finish that doesn't overly highlight the grain.Use 0000 steel wool, or even paper towels with a rough texture for the smoothest result.A satin finish on that blonde wood should look really nice! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
script56 Posted October 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2013 Ok. So shellac then lacquer ? Two coats or just lacquer? How many coats, sand between? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted October 24, 2013 Report Share Posted October 24, 2013 IMHO (others may disagree) the shellac presents problems. It has to be brushed on with a good quality brush and there is potential for runs, dust and brush marks, not to mention some eventual yellowing.I have not used shellac to seal wood, nor have I used the Minwax aerosol sealer but I may try the sealer in the future.However, Minwax says it is not needed, that the aerosol lacquer is self-sealing. Why make it more complicated?I cannot speak from experience regarding the Rust0leum lacquer, only Minwax.AR-Pro said it best:I've also used the Minwax Satin aerosol, with very good results - it's virtually foolproof, and gives a smooth finish that doesn't overly highlight the grain.Use 0000 steel wool, or even paper towels with a rough texture for the smoothest result.A satin finish on that blonde wood should look really nice!Attached are photos of a KLH Model Eight radio speaker I'm restoring. It is solid walnut so it could be sanded more aggressively than veneer but I started with #80 paper in the random orbit sander, then 120, 150, 220, 340, and finally 600. Sprayed about 4 or 5 coats of lacquer outdoors over about a 2 hour period with no sanding or buffing in between. The radios get a gloss finish but I agree satin would be better for your speakers.Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
script56 Posted October 24, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 24, 2013 Too humid today but will try soon. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genek Posted October 25, 2013 Report Share Posted October 25, 2013 You should spray the shellac or sanding sealer as well as the lacquer. Be sure your finishes are all compatible with one another. With all the synthetic formulas on the market today, it's more complicated than it used to be.The Mohawk pouring finish is urethane based. I have a default prejudice against urethane finishes, especially on anything that qualifies as a near-museum piece (although refinishing usually disqualifies something from being a museum piece anyway), but formulas get improved all the time and I haven't ever used thst one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
script56 Posted October 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2013 Not sure if I sprayed too far away but after 3 coats it doesn't look much different than before first coat. Wiped clean with mineral spirits before spraying. I'm sure it contacted surface no runs or drips. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
script56 Posted October 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2013 Finished side. One with photo flash one with none. I can feel the roughness of the lacquer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
script56 Posted October 26, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 26, 2013 Top. No flash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genek Posted October 27, 2013 Report Share Posted October 27, 2013 Looks normal for aerosol can to me. You'll need to get some very fine abrasive pads and rub it down between coats. I like the grey Scotch-Brite finishing pads (not to be confused with the kitchen pot cleaning pads). You'll need to move in closer for the final coat or two if you want a gloss, or for a satin finish use the pads again followed by a buffing with paste wax. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ra.ra Posted October 27, 2013 Report Share Posted October 27, 2013 Flat grain blonde wood (with or without flash) can sometimes be difficult to photograph, but from the images of your latest pics, it appears that your efforts with the new finish are most satisfactory. Show us a few more when they are all finished - - - great job! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted October 28, 2013 Report Share Posted October 28, 2013 Flat grain blonde wood (with or without flash) can sometimes be difficult to photograph, but from the images of your latest pics, it appears that your efforts with the new finish are most satisfactory. Show us a few more when they are all finished - - - great job! What he said!Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Anthropologo Posted November 4, 2013 Report Share Posted November 4, 2013 these are now for sale on that auction site....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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