script56 Posted October 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2013 Paint removed with chemicals. Looks very unfinished. What do you think now? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
script56 Posted October 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2013 Sorry about the toes in the shot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
script56 Posted October 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2013 Was thinking about using this to finish and make like original Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
script56 Posted October 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2013 Sanded 120 grit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
script56 Posted October 20, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2013 It did seem like there was the layer of green paint the. Under that a layer of poly. Could have been Just oiled but looked like a layer of poly. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
script56 Posted October 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 After chemical strip, 120 grit, 220 grit then 000 steel wool. Brushed dust off. Did not use watco rejuvenating oil. Going to wait for watco natural finish. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genek Posted October 21, 2013 Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 That looks like birch to me. As a comparison, the backs are pine. Another blonde finish not shown on the sample card was korina, aka white limba, but that wood had a very different grain structure. The blonde cabinets would originally have come with a clear lacquer finish. Blonde finishes from the 50s and 60s have more of a collector value than the more common dark woods, so think twice before staining if you have any thought of eventually reselling them.The older oiled finish speakers were all finished with "boiled linseed oil," which is actually not really boiled but has a mineral solvent blended with the oil to speed drying times. Sometime in the early 70s the furniture industry as a whole moved from oil+solvent finishes to oil+varnish blends (similar to Watco finishes). The 2ax's that I bought new in 1975 were definitely not oil+solvent, the finish was too hard to not have a varnish of some sort blended in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
script56 Posted October 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 It did seem there was a clear finish on them. So to make original, if birch, lacquer or watco natural oil? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted October 21, 2013 Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 Script (and others): If you have not read this, it's an interesting history of ARhttp://retrozound.blogspot.com/2009/07/history-of-passion.htmlKent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted October 21, 2013 Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 OK. Here's the latest input. As I said, I don't think RAF is appropriate here and my gut feeling was to use spray lacquer.In a personal communication Tom Tyson (who provided the finish chart on the previous page and who has an early AR-3 on display in the Smithsonian) wrote:After looking at the other pictures, I would have to agree with the birch theme. If so, lacquer finish would likely be the way to go. Birch doesn't respond to oil finish very well. I'm not even positive that AR used a lacquer finish on birch, but that is probably the correct finish. Also, he could use several coats of Mohawk Pour 'n Wipe, a finish that will be superior to lacquer and that will have a satin-gloss finish. It's expensive, but it's by far the best finish of this type available. It can be wiped on with several coat application.Here is a link: http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse_tech.asp?ictnbr=215Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ra.ra Posted October 21, 2013 Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 script56, those cabinets are looking great!Just to clarify comments in post #24, my suggestion about RAF was directed toward a minimal "re-finish" approach, if the intent was merely to hide some nicks and scratches, or to mellow out an original high gloss sheen. Also, my mention of lacquer was a best guess at the original factory finish, not necessarily a prescribed re-furb approach.I think we've established that the veneer is indeed birch, and while I've never seen the korina noted by in post 32, genek hits the nail on the head with his second paragraph about the blonde finishes.Am unfamiliar with the Mohawk product mentioned, but if the decision becomes a choice between oil and lacquer (or anything else), I highly suggest conducting some small sample tests on a similar piece of blonde birch before committing any finish to the entire speakers. Results of various finish testing can be an invaluable resource not only for making a final decision, but it can also give you a more comfortable feel for application of the material(s) relative to drying time, off-gassing, and workability. Just for interest, see the finish stamped on these AR-2 paper tags. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
script56 Posted October 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 Yes so birch it is! It does seem that pine would be more of a rough finish. I am looking to restore to original condition so lacquer is probably what I'm going to do. I have been reading about differences between lacquer and polyurethane with the main difference being lacquer is usually sprayed and poly brushed on. I have never used spray finish, but poly must be applied with as few strokes as possible to have a uniform gloss finish. Any recommendations on brand specific lacquer finishes to use and type of gloss ( satin, flat, high gloss)? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genek Posted October 21, 2013 Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 Not meaning to complicate matters, but extra food for thought nonetheless. It occurred to me while reading/writing here that I have been contemplating how best to refinish some blonde Heywood-Wakefield furniture from the 50's, and I've seen how many others have struggled between full authenticity and alternate aesthetic solutions. H-W furniture is normally solid maple, which is often indistinguishable from birch. Heywood-Wakefield used both maple and birch. They started out with maple and between 1937 abd 1939 changed over to a clear grained white birch. Both woods were finished with a complex process that involved multiple layers of differently-shaded semi-transparent paint (that's paint, not stain).. Don't even think about trying to reproduce them without a very good spray gun. Compared to that, a couple of coats of clear lacquer on a blonde AR cabinet is like a walk in the park. But look into a catalyzed varnish. Also has to be sprayed, but dries smoother than lacquer, is less fragile and the spray cloud is way less likely than lacquer to explode.on you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted October 21, 2013 Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 I just recently started using Minwax aerosol lacquer on my radio restorations and was very pleasantly surprised to find how easy it is to use. It is available in big box stores (Home Depot etc). Don't try to spray it on too heavy. Use short, smooth passes--don't go back & forth.It dries very quickly so dust does not accumulate. You can recoat in under 30 minutes.You should use 2, 3 or even more coats. You can sand lightly after a few coats, then apply the final coat.With just a little care it should come out great.The degree of gloss is up to you. I use high gloss on the radios. If you find the finish is too shiny you can buff it with steel wool or bronze wool, or wet sand it with #400 wet-or-dry sandpaper.Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
script56 Posted October 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 Ok. I have painted a motorcycle tank before so I have some experience with how to work a spray can. It seems its the same practice as with brushed poly as to use smooth single swipes. When you say short passes, would that be considered a side at a time. say maybe 5 single swipes per side? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
script56 Posted October 21, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 Although I do have a Mohawk dealer close by and their pour n wipe sounds fool proof. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted October 21, 2013 Report Share Posted October 21, 2013 Ok. I have painted a motorcycle tank before so I have some experience with how to work a spray can. It seems its the same practice as with brushed poly as to use smooth single swipes. When you say short passes, would that be considered a side at a time. say maybe 5 single swipes per side?Yes. If for example the cabinet is on its back, spray one side top to bottom--don't stop in the middle. Then do overlapping passes. About 5 per side sounds about right.Kenthttp://www.amazon.com/Minwax-15210-Aerosol-Lacquer-12-25-Ounce/dp/B0002YOPLO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1382398334&sr=8-3&keywords=minwax+lacquerorhttp://www.amazon.com/Minwax-15205-Semi-Gloss-Brushing-12-25-Ounce/dp/B005O55UCY/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1382398381&sr=8-6&keywords=minwax+lacquerorhttp://www.amazon.com/Minwax-15200-Brushing-Lacquer-12-25-Ounce/dp/B0002YOPOG/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1382398457&sr=8-1&keywords=minwax+lacquer+gloss Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
script56 Posted October 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2013 I had a 12x12 cardboard box that when cut in 4 pieces was the exact size to Act as a grille to protect speakers during sanding. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
script56 Posted October 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2013 Got some rust-oleum lacquer. Looks to be high gloss Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ar_pro Posted October 22, 2013 Report Share Posted October 22, 2013 Are you sure that you want a high-gloss finish on your speakers? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
script56 Posted October 22, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 22, 2013 any reccomendations appreciated. Pics will help. Jkent had a few good recommendations. Jenek stated clear lacquer. Maybe semi gloss would be closer to original. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genek Posted October 23, 2013 Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 Laquering wood is a multilayer process. First a coat of sanding sealer or shellac, then the lacquer. Don't apply lacquer directly to bare wood. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
script56 Posted October 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 Ok. I'm learning. Glad you told me. so shellac then spray lacquer. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
script56 Posted October 23, 2013 Author Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 And from what I've read de-waxed shellac is best. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted October 23, 2013 Report Share Posted October 23, 2013 And from what I've read de-waxed shellac is best.Minwax makes a spray sanding sealer that is easy to use but may not be needed. From the Minwax site:Q. What is Minwax® Lacquer Sanding Sealer? How is it used?Minwax® Clear Brushing Lacquer acts as its own sealer and can be used alone. However, applying Minwax® Lacquer Sanding Sealer provides added smoothness.Minwax® Lacquer Sanding Sealer is formulated to work as a base coat under Minwax® Clear Brushing Lacquer. It is easy to sand, dries quickly, and seals the wood in just one coat. Once sanded, it provides a smooth, even surface that is ready to be top coated with Minwax® Clear Brushing Lacquer.Here is the sealer: http://www.amazon.com/Minwax-15215-Sanding-Sealer-12-25-Ounce/dp/B0002YOPKA/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1382551421&sr=8-3&keywords=minwax+sanding+sealer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.