New AR 2ax Restoration

[npt3]

Recapping of the 'en fuego' speaker: success! Soldered in the woofer leads and all the drivers work!!

The pots, OTOH, are a different story - I'll have to clean them up, doodies. I was really hoping I wouldn't, but they are 38 years old, so, out comes the Dremel.

Question about re-stuffing the enclosure: does it really matter if I bunch up the new fiberglass I got the way the original stuffing was, or as long as the stuffing weight is correct, can I just lay(er) it in?

Wow. Pots were surprisingly easy to clean. But after reassembling them the midrange pot is still a little 'scratchy.' Is it OK to blast some Deoxit in there to try to clean it up 'in place'?

[RoyC]

Wow. Pots were surprisingly easy to clean. But after reassembling them the midrange pot is still a little 'scratchy.' Is it OK to blast some Deoxit in there to try to clean it up 'in place'?

You can blast away, but it is unlikely Deoxit will remove what your dremel tool didn't. The pots can be stubborn. Sometimes they seem clean, but the tip of the wiper, for example, can still be corroded or have a very small hole in it. Your pots were obviously less easy to clean than they led you to believe.

A basic multimeter is useful to check the pots' resistance from 0 to 16+/- ohms, before re-installation.

Roy

[npt3]

You can blast away, but it is unlikely Deoxit will remove what your dremel tool didn't. The pots can be stubborn. Sometimes they seem clean, but the tip of the wiper, for example, can still be corroded or have a very small hole in it. Your pots were obviously less easy to clean than they led you to believe.

A basic multimeter is useful to check the pots' resistance from 0 to 16+/- ohms, before re-installation.

Roy

Interesting - thanks Roy. I'll check the midrange pot with my multimeter. Its performance is not horrible, and it's certainly better than it was before, but I'd like it to be smoother than it is.

[Tekker]

I had one where the inner contact plate was partially eaten away from corrosion on the high side, so I reversed the wiring on the pot. Now the high end is nice and clean and I doubt I'll ever have to use the lower volume end. Of course the knob direction is reversed too.

Bill

[npt3]

So...it's been a while but I've completed the internal rehab of the pair and am giving them a trial run hooked up to my Nakamichi SR-3A. First CD I cued up was the new LCD Soundsystem disc. I am really kind of amazed just how great these sound. I don't know what I was expecting - an "old school" sound? - but the sonics are direct, imaging is really good, and the bass. is. goddam. solid. I can only imagine how great the 3a's (or, heaven help me, a pair of AR9's) are. Rawr!

Now, I just have to think about refinishing the cabinets and grilles. The easiest thing to do would be to strip the old finish off, sand them down and re-veneer (or laminate) the boxes - or even a spray finish - maybe something like the Rust-O-Leum Stone Finish?

[RoyC]

So...it's been a while but I've completed the internal rehab of the pair and am giving them a trial run hooked up to my Nakamichi SR-3A. First CD I cued up was the new LCD Soundsystem disc. I am really kind of amazed just how great these sound. I don't know what I was expecting - an "old school" sound? - but the sonics are direct, imaging is really good, and the bass. is. goddam. solid. I can only imagine how great the 3a's (or, heaven help me, a pair of AR9's) are. Rawr!

Now, I just have to think about refinishing the cabinets and grilles. The easiest thing to do would be to strip the old finish off, sand them down and re-veneer (or laminate) the boxes - or even a spray finish - maybe something like the Rust-O-Leum Stone Finish?

The AR veneer is rather thick by today's standards, and many blemishes can be removed by sanding before hitting glue. I would try sanding first.

What was the resolution to your level control problem?

Roy

[JKent]

The AR veneer is rather thick by today's standards, and many blemishes can be removed by sanding before hitting glue. I would try sanding first.

But remember, these are unfinished utility cabinets. New veneer or paint seem to be the choices.

Kent

[RoyC]

But remember, these are unfinished utility cabinets. New veneer or paint seem to be the choices.

Kent

Oops, I should have gone back to the beginning of the thread...Thanks, Kent.

Roy

[npt3]

So...it's been a while but I've completed the internal rehab of the pair and am giving them a trial run hooked up to my Nakamichi SR-3A. First CD I cued up was the new LCD Soundsystem disc. I am really kind of amazed just how great these sound. I don't know what I was expecting - an "old school" sound? - but the sonics are direct, imaging is really good, and the bass. is. goddam. solid. I can only imagine how great the 3a's (or, heaven help me, a pair of AR9's) are. Rawr!

Now, I just have to think about refinishing the cabinets and grilles. The easiest thing to do would be to strip the old finish off, sand them down and re-veneer (or laminate) the boxes - or even a spray finish - maybe something like the Rust-O-Leum Stone Finish?

Done!!! :-D

I decided to sand off the old finish with my random orbital sander (coarse-->med-->fine-->ex fine) and the results were excellent. Now the outside (even unfinished) looks as good as the insides sound.

One last question: do the "1" and "2" terminals correspond to red and white, or vice versa?

Thanks to all on this board for your help. I've got the bug now!!

[AR_nut_in_Oregon]

Done!!! :-D

I decided to sand off the old finish with my random orbital sander (coarse-->med-->fine-->ex fine) and the results were excellent. Now the outside (even unfinished) looks as good as the insides sound.

One last question: do the "1" and "2" terminals correspond to red and white, or vice versa?

Thanks to all on this board for your help. I've got the bug now!!

The "1" terminal should have a bare wire from the induction coil in series with the blue wire from the woofer...that would be negative (-)

The "2" terminal should be strapped together with the "T" terminal, and connected to the red wire from the woofer....that would be positive (+)

Note that the Tweeter and Mid are opposite polarity from the Woofer...see attached Xover diagram from my latest resto of AR-2ax...

AR_2ax_Connection_Diagram.pdf

[npt3]

The "1" terminal should have a bare wire from the induction coil in series with the blue wire from the woofer...that would be negative (-)

The "2" terminal should be strapped together with the "T" terminal, and connected to the red wire from the woofer....that would be positive (+)

Note that the Tweeter and Mid are opposite polarity from the Woofer...see attached Xover diagram from my latest resto of AR-2ax...

AR_2ax_Connection_Diagram.pdf

Thanks!

[npt3]

Oh, I finally figured out how to upload pix - d'oh. Here are some "after" photos of my restoration. There's a "before" picture of the tops to show the difference after sanding off the finish with a random orbital sander (progressive grit reductions). They really finished off nice, and my uncle is ecstatic to have them back in working order. Forgot to shrink the linen after stapling, though

Just came into a pair of 3a's this week - hurray! These are for me, and I can't wait to dig into that project.

Question for the group - what modern stand would work best with the 3a's? I know I can do a DIY of the original 'crossbar' AR stands if I have to, but I may want to go with something a little less retro...

I am sufficiently inspired now! :-D

[JKent]

Oh, I finally figured out how to upload pix - d'oh. Here are some "after" photos of my restoration. There's a "before" picture of the tops to show the difference after sanding off the finish with a random orbital sander (progressive grit reductions). They really finished off nice, and my uncle is ecstatic to have them back in working order. Forgot to shrink the linen after stapling, though

Just came into a pair of 3a's this week - hurray! These are for me, and I can't wait to dig into that project.

Question for the group - what modern stand would work best with the 3a's? I know I can do a DIY of the original 'crossbar' AR stands if I have to, but I may want to go with something a little less retro...

I am sufficiently inspired now! :-D

Nice! And this was perfect "practice" before tackling the 3a! Looks the project evolved a bit. You had planned to veneer the cabs and use modern stretchy grille cloth. I think most of us here would endorse the choice of linen. It looks pretty good before shrinking but you may want to give them a spritz. And what's the verdict on the cabinets? Are you leaving them raw?

I assume you saw these DIY stands. They're nice, and go well with the speakers

http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/IP.Boar...?showtopic=6022

Oh--one little suggestion re the pics: Try resizing them before posting. They'll be easier for viewers to open and you won't eat up your allotted picture space. Under 1MB is good. Under 300K is better.

Be sure to keep us posted on the 3a project.

Kent

[npt3]

Nice! And this was perfect "practice" before tackling the 3a! Looks the project evolved a bit. You had planned to veneer the cabs and use modern stretchy grille cloth. I think most of us here would endorse the choice of linen. It looks pretty good before shrinking but you may want to give them a spritz. And what's the verdict on the cabinets? Are you leaving them raw?

I assume you saw these DIY stands. They're nice, and go well with the speakers

http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/IP.Boar...?showtopic=6022

Oh--one little suggestion re the pics: Try resizing them before posting. They'll be easier for viewers to open and you won't eat up your allotted picture space. Under 1MB is good. Under 300K is better.

Be sure to keep us posted on the 3a project.

Kent

I'm firmly in the linen camp now. The Wichelt stuff from 1-2-3 Stitch is really nice. Unc really liked the "raw" look - I think he may plan on just putting a light coat or rub of clear sealer to retain that honey look. Forgot about resizing the photos, Kent - will do that next time. And I'll definitely keep you posted on the 3a project! I've waited a long time to get my hands on a pair. My main speakers are Allison 3s, but I want to put the ARs in my family room; they will be a little less "imposing" than the Allisons!

[Jaws]

Checked with RoyC on the FG. Here's his reply:

"the stuffing amount is 20oz fiberglass for his era 2axs"

Hope this helps,

Kent

Hi Kent (or Roy),

I'm restoring some AR-2ax's now, having cut my teeth on AR-7s, and I have the same issue with the stuffing. Is the 'stuffing amount versus inductor number' information on this website somewhere (I've looked but no dice)? You also mentioned in this same thread that rock wool should NOT be re-used (your capitals). Why is this?

[JKent]

If you have not already done so, download the AR3a Restoration Guide. Much contained therein pertains to the 2ax and others. The rock wool issue is covered

http://www.classicsp...-3a_full_pd.pdf

If you tell us your serial numbers and what woofers you have (cloth or foam surround) Roy or someone can tell you how much FG. I think 4 bags of the Johns Manville FG @ 9 oz per bag is perfect for some 2ax's.

Kent

[dynaco_dan]

Nice! And this was perfect "practice" before tackling the 3a! Looks the project evolved a bit. You had planned to veneer the cabs and use modern stretchy grille cloth. I think most of us here would endorse the choice of linen. It looks pretty good before shrinking but you may want to give them a spritz. And what's the verdict on the cabinets? Are you leaving them raw?

I assume you saw these DIY stands. They're nice, and go well with the speakers

http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/IP.Boar...?showtopic=6022

Oh--one little suggestion re the pics: Try resizing them before posting. They'll be easier for viewers to open and you won't eat up your allotted picture space. Under 1MB is good. Under 300K is better.

Be sure to keep us posted on the 3a project.

Kent

Hi there

As much as I do own and have used the original AR crisscross speaker stands, I have the experience to not recommend their use.

The original ones were nice solid walnut and they included small round self sticking felt pads, for mounting on top of the uprights, so that the uprights would not mar the speakers surface.

The stands fit all of their classic models except the AR-4 series and AR-7's.

Actually they would look a little funny but they would work out with their light weight.

These two would not be sitting on the uprights though but their lesser weight should not be a problem.

The 2 and 5 series were smaller in size than the AR-3 series but the stands were still adequate for the job.

The AR-LST and 2 series would also work because the uprights are solid 2 x 2's.

These were only about 12" off the floor and not necessarily complementary to each speakers dispersion or bass output.

If any the mentioned speakers were laid gently on top of the stands they would be well supported vertically only.

Just the slightest lateral movement and the speakers could either slide off, or cause the joint of the crosspiece and the upright to break off.

I found that adults that were careless and large dogs bumping them caused the most damage, not just children.

If they are placed on a solid surface with some means of keeping them from being touched, then they should be just fine.

As a sidenote, the crosspiece to upright joint was done at least 2 different ways.

I only have 2 stands and they are both fastened differently.

They are selling like they are gold on ebuy today.