Aadams

Good. If no amp tone controls or equalizer you’ve done all you can.

The AR 2x is a bit later variation of the AR2. The AR2 was designed to be placed in a shelf long side down. The AR2x works equally well placed on either side. Both units are 2 way with 10" woofers but the crossover frequency is very different, which means the speakers could be made to sound very different when using the rear tweeter attenuators. However if the old tweeter controls will allow you to set the tweeters at max output the speakers should sound almost the same or maybe even indistinguishable. The tone controls of your amplifier would then be used to equally tailor sound adjustments to each speaker. This is assuming your speakers are original and not internally altered. One indication would be if the grills are still permanently attached with glue and staples. If you can remove the grills then you should post photos of the fronts with grills off. Also easily removed grills may mean they are not even AR on the inside. Your AR2 probably has a cloth surround woofer which could be ok if you don't hear odd noises, but the 2x may have a foam surround woofer which by now would be very degraded, if all is original. You should be careful with the volume control to avoid damage .

I don't recall a major cabinet refurb documented on this site that did not remove the drivers. Of the AR9/90 cab rebuilds, the drivers were removed to accomplish the dirty work and heavy handling that is required to finish correctly. The foam ring is nice but not essential. Many AR9s never had them on mid or tweet. The Acoustic Blanket IS essential Vertical Series kit, is part of the branding and cannot practically be removed intact nor replaced with any fidelity to the original. The LMR is the rarest of all the drivers in the cab and should be removed anyway in order to verify its internal sealed enclosure has not snapped loose from all the apparent rough handling these cabs have received. Don't remove any of the white damping material from anywhere unless removal is necessary to reseal the internal enclosure. Removing mids and tweeters to safe keeping at the risk of losing the foam ring is prudent. Your ears will never miss the foam ring if it is lost. Adams

Did this transaction occur before or after you asked us what you could get for $600? Good deal. The hard to find expensive pieces appear to be in place and undamaged. All that remains is a lot of elbow grease and patience.

You are probably right. Speaking for myself, I much prefer listening to tinkering or fabrication so restorability and repair to original form is an important factor to me. All top line ARs were good speakers. By the late 80s there were several good speaker brands but finding OEM replacement parts for old speakers, including late model ARs, can be difficult. However, if the price is right any speaker purchase can be rationalized as a good choice.

You didn't say if you are prepared to DIY. Agree with the AR91 and would suggest the AR92. Both are high performance and good replacement aftermarket mids and tweeters are available if originals can't be found which is not true for many earlier or later AR models. Your $600 could be a bit low for decent 91s. You could find 92s for $600. As a backup, Epicures from the mid to late 70s that used double woofers and double tweeter would be within your budget, have bass similar to an AR 12" and still have good parts availability but they are not commonly found for sale. I have a pair of Epicure 20+ which I use everyday but not for music listening. For comparison to something new, approaching the AR91 or 92 in performance, you would look at the new KLH 5 perhaps or the new JBL Century, which is not sealed. Good working ARs can be an amazing bargain.

I would be happy to contribute but this is pretty much a one track forum. This topic might better fit in the Other Speakers and Electronics forum unless you are primarily looking for AR recommendations in the 10" - 12" category.

Ligs The answer to your question is yes. I have been using a 58s as the woofer for about 2 years and went back to the direct wired 98ls woofer on the floor with baffle perpendicular against wall in the same position as the 58. The difference is an improvement and quite noticeable.

You sure you have everything wired in phase? Inside and out? The 90 is very close to a 9.

As long as the jumper wire is connecting T to 2 you are OK. Use 1 and 2.

Except for the turntable the whole system is at least 50 years old and with appearance very nicely preserved. What do you want to know? If you want to merely test the speakers for electrical operation I would consider using an another amp for now instead of the ST120.

Sounds like a nice vintage system. You can get help here but it would speed things along l if you provide model numbers of the amp and preamp as well as photos of the speakers front and back. Photos of the entire system would be very interesting. Adams

I think you need to stop.

Premium duct tape is much stickier than the less expensive per/length rolls and is your best and safest method. And it works.

I used duct tape applied to the dented area and gently tugged it out. You may still see evidence of a dent. Others have had success with a vacuum cleaner nozzle I was not willing to try that method on the first attempt.

This thread has a @tysontom post that mentions 60 LSTs per month in 1972. That build rate over 4 years yields 2880 units.

Page 37 https://worldradiohistory.com/Archive-All-Audio/Archive-HiFI-Stereo/80s/Stereo-Directory-1982.pdf I am saying that you cannot find an explicit statement in english saying it is rated for continuous operation at 4 ohms. I know of only one receiver from that period that would operate 2 or even 3 sets of 4 ohm speakers simultaneously and safely. There must have been others but not many. and a Happy New Year!

Short answer. Skip it. There isn't any evidence it was rated for continuous output below 8 ohms. Also it is old, really old, and my experience at least has been that such amps are not to be trusted without careful examination by a trusted tech. There are a lot of amplifiers but the supply of AR speakers is fixed. Happy Holidays

Welcome Ande Before rebuilds were available the QR1 was the preferred solution. It is till a good one in the absence of the original tweeter. Click the supplied link to a thread that shows and explains how to do it correctly for front wired tweeters. Replace in pairs, save your old tweeter bodies with domes intact and be very careful when extracting them from the grip of the decades old sealing putty because the face plates are thin plastic.

https://www.dadaelectronics.eu/uploads/downloads/03_Quad-User-Manuals/Quad-606-Instruction-Book.pdf Here is a link to a PDF the 606 manual. It never explicitly states that it is rated for continuous use below 8 ohms but does contain a statement saying "it has absolute stability at any load and signal". See the spec page and graph.

Go to the last page of this thread and download the AR3a restoration guide. The download link will be unavailable unless you are logged in.

Lars Disregard what I said about adding the resistor in the previous post. That would work if adapting 4ohm tweeters for 8 ohm use. If all your tweeters are 200013-2 then you have tweeters that will not work correctly. Your best option is to have all your existing tweeters rebuilt as 4 ohm. There are new 4 ohm AR11 reproduction tweeters that will fit the hole but would need additional filter work and could be more difficult to adapt to front wiring. The cost is about the same for either path but the rebuild is the better choice Somehow I got it reversed and only realized the mistake in the middle of the night.

IIRC the cap should not be necessary for that tweeter but the added resistor should lower the DCR of the tweeter to between 3 and 3.5 ohms to act as a 4ohm 200013-1. A Cap would be used on the later AR11 type tweeters to make it blend at the crossover frequency. You may be aware that your tweeters are so old they have a reduced output that is a product of aging, crumbling suspensions (the foam blobs that should be orange). They can be rebuilt as 4 or 8 ohm. Sleep tight. Adams

The tweeter you are showing is an 8 ohm replacement per Giorgio. It If all of your tweeters have three little blobs of material around the dome they are the proper era tweeter. If all have the same part number they have been adapted for a 4ohm application. It appears they have been painted black to resemble an AR11 tweeter. The correct part is 200013-1. Maybe the 8 ohm tweeters are the reason you are seeing higher impedance at higher frequencies.

I am reading this on a device that does not have PP. If you want to share widely post each PP page as a small jpg image. Are you checking impedance through the fuses? You might need new ones or you could bypass for your impedance sweep. Probably but you would need to search for relevant LST posts or wait for one of the ancient ones with deep LST wisdom to surface..........which could be a while. You could trust the caps are good enough for now, install new FMN2 fuses, check the woofer assemblies for integrity and put a low volume signal through each system to check for sound in every driver.