Jump to content

Aadams

Members
  • Posts

    1,441
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Everything posted by Aadams

  1. Just make it perform and appear correctly. None of the rebuilt dome tweeters you hear about have original coils. Some of them are custom wound for application as either 4 or 8 ohm as specified by the buyer. Some tweeter domes are original some domes are aftermarket. Midranges could be a bit different. Nobody restores them.
  2. Your project is interesting. I would say, just take your project to conclusion and the admin will know in the end whether or not it is an MT thread.
  3. This would be helpful No reason to be shy. If you can credibly restore failed AR5/AR3a/11 midranges for a reasonable fee you will get interest. I am saying what you are doing to the PRT is not practicable for almost all of us, so unless you bring it to market or show us how it is simple to do, this is an academic exercise that should be in Mods and Tweaks. We would pay you for the modified part in the expectation that it would meet expectations. You would build cred as the number of successful transactions increased and through supportive reports of success on this and other sites.
  4. I thought for a while this thread was hijacked. Now I am not sure. What you are doing is interesting but unless you actually get something done, its like listening to grandpa Simpson stories that don't go anywhere. You don't have the name recognition of Allison or Kantor, so even if you put this in a 4x for instance and tell us it is better we will need an easy and inexpensive way to verify your claim. We don't all possess your skills or inclination to invest the time to replicate your efforts so where is this project going? The crossover mods in the M&T thread you mentioned are easily replicable, your surgery and techniques are not. How will this serve the interests of AR4 owners in general after you finish? Otherwise, this thread should be a in Mods and Tweaks. I am still waiting for you to restore 3a dome mids?
  5. You have everything you need to do what you want. The polks are two ways which means the the upper midrange is in the tweeter at least partially. Fortunately you have a midrange tone control on your Sansui. It could be, you only need to turn down the mid range control.
  6. The easiest way to deal with this ,if your high range tone control won't do it, is connect a ten band equalizer in your tape loop. No crossover mods unless that is what you prefer.
  7. It I just remembered. In those ADD particle board baffles, the duct seal material can bond to the wood particles. The longer it stays, the tighter the bond. The next time you remove the driver you can pull out chunks of the smooth routed mounting surface. Best bet now days, is gasket tape.
  8. About 10 years ago the late @Carlspeak posted a valuable analysis of tests of old bi polar caps he had removed from loudspeakers over years of repair and restoration. He concluded there was no practical reason to remove Sprague Compulytics without outward evidence of malfunction. I have AR classics with all new caps and all old spragues. There is no difference attributable to caps. You have new caps in your AR9s. Put on a favorite recording and compare to the 10pis. They won't sound the same but if they sound equally distortion free you are good to go. I wouldn't change them.
  9. There is an engineering design section in the manual that gives the details you seek. Among the details is how the placement of the LMR in the cabinet, the cabinet depth and crossover frequency work to automatically negate the effect of cancellations from reflections in low mid range frequencies. This is a long way to say I think your mid ranges are too close to the side walls. This might be an angle-in situation.
  10. Yes. Assuming they are operating correctly and identically placed in relation to reflective boundaries and the listeners ears, the 3 series plays bass much lower than the 5. In your photo, the gain from room placement favors the 5 because it is on the floor. You are probably hearing a mid bass hump.
  11. This is what I thought you were saying from the beginning until you said they both played loud. Ok so they are NOT balanced and centered in mono. The woofer excursion problem and the loudness balance problem could 2 different issues but hopefully they will both vanish when you check the fuses.
  12. This is what I think you are saying; When playing in mono the sound of both speakers is centered and balanced. The only problem is the scary woofer excursion. It sounds like source material, especially if the problem moves. If it is the source material, I agree with @frankmarsi lst2 are not the speakers for that music. Probably your JBLs or SRTs or your LSTs that I think I saw in a photo. Tomorrow.
  13. The crossover is not putting extra energy into the woofer. You are not using a turntable for this, correct? . The overall diminished output of one speaker cab could be a fuse. The buzzing could also be fuse related. Did the excursion move when you swapped the signal cables? If so it could be the source material, or something upstream from the speaker and unrelated to the overall output problem.
  14. Have you swapped the left/right signal wires to see if the abnormal excursion moves to the other cab? The switch on the LST only affects the mids. The sound profiles occur by varying the midrange level in relation to fixed tweeter and woofer output. Your fuzzy midrange could be from a degraded fuse.
  15. LST fuse condition is a big deal. The fuses degrade over time and can cause quirky behavior. You could temporarily bypass the fuses and gently test the system. The only things to cause large excursions of these woofers is a strong low frequency source signal or an air leak. The passive crossover won't amplify a signal. I would avoid 30 hz on these woofers and play music. It will be safer for the woofer.
  16. How old are the fuses? Have you installed new fuses? Also you could swap the signal wire left and right channel to see if the problem stays in the same cab. A reminder: the push test is to assess the recovery speed of the woofer cone after it is pushed in slowly. The recovery should be sluggish not rapid. I don't have an informed opinion on the autoformer, except to say I can't recall anyone ever mentioning a faulty autoformer in their LSTs or 10pis but dirt in the switch has been an issue.
  17. Set aside the signal generator. You might need a smoke generator but you can start with a simple woofer push test comparison between the two cabs. With all the hivis you have been installing I would not be surprised if you have a leak(s). Are you sealing with gasket tape? You could have gaps around the screw holes for example. Check around the mids as well for a good seal. Did you forget to seal the woofer?
  18. I would check for a serious cabinet leak as first step. Typing on phone is pia.
  19. Look at this thread, particularly the tysontom post about 3/4 way down, AR9 vs BW and KEF. Comparisons of AR3a and AR11 12 inch box style speakers to themselves or other similarly capable box speakers depends greatly on condition of the speakers, control settings , ROOM PLACEMENT and intended use. I would be skeptical of anything that said the ARs were " blown away" by something else designed for home music enjoyment. "Equaled" would not be surprising. You will spend a lot more money for the new speaker than a properly working old AR.
  20. The 2 series tweeter is built for an 8ohm system. The 3 series tweeter is built for 4ohm. The 8 ohm tweeter can be rebuilt for 4 ohm application. The 8 ohm cannot be easily adapted to operate correctly in the 4 ohm system. OTOH the 4ohm can be adapted for 8ohm in a pinch.
  21. It is an ebay listing for the brochure.
  22. Label from the back of an SRT 170 on ebY From a UK brochure
  23. The Army part makes sense. I know that UK AR product was sold in European Base "Audio Clubs" in the 1980s. In my experience, component audio products were never sold in US base exchanges.
  24. Kent, when you posted I was gathering info with the objective of asking for a photo of the AR label on the back of the cabinets. I checked Stereo Review buyers guide for all years from 1989 to 1996, finding no listing for an AR STR xxx. Andre, Beginning in the 1980s AR speakers had a label on the back of the cabinet that looked something like these below. Perhaps you could show us the label on your SRT
×
×
  • Create New...