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AR2 pots not ceramic???

Popsicle AR2

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So I finally got the cloth surround woofers out of my AR2s this morning and was expecting to find corroded ceramic pots, but instead I found what appear to me to be more modern aluminum cased pots.  I'm getting little to no sound from my two cross-firing mids and absolutely no variance in sound when I adjust the knob, so I figured I'd just go in and clean up the ceramic pots I was expecting to find.  So now what?  I guess just replace these? 

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No.  Little to no variation as I move the knob from mids to woofer.  It looks like from a rely from dxho that I have original AR2 pots, and I was expecting those oil-filled capacitor boxes.  So what are these silver things and can they be reliably used as an indicator of the date of these AR2s?


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Can you post pics of your pots and caps? Resize them to about 100KB or so

Maybe a pic of the label too, or at least give us a serial number. The AR-2 was introduced in 1956. The 2a was 1960 but they continued to make the 2 for a while I think.

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Interesting thread here 

Unfortunately many of the photos are missing but there IS a pic of the pot and capacitor that should match yours and there are some clues for how to determine the date of manufacture.

Bummer about the tape over the label.

And a very interesting article about AR history by (former) CSP member Andrew Hayden here:


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13 hours ago, Popsicle AR2 said:

Are these pots ceramic inside the metal covers, which I could take off and clean?

No...but the AR-2 level control is only providing variable resistance (up to 10 ohms) in series with the high frequency driver, which is why only 2 of the 3 terminals of the control are used. Since it is doubtful the control would be used much below the maximum setting, you could easily replace it with the more common 15 ohm pot or a new 8 ohm L-pad. Since you would only be connecting the series leg either type of control will not change anything electrically, and will provide the appropriate amount of high frequency attenuation. Most users set the controls at maximum (no series resistance at all) or just off maximum.

Also check the woofers' surround and spider mounting rings. They are very often loose or detached due to degraded adhesive.

Send me a PM if you need assistance locating and assembling the appropriate replacement caps (if necessary) and level controls. Edit: I just read your other thread regarding the same speakers. You probably do not need to replace the capacitors. Photos would be helpful...


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