meta_noia_fot
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Posts posted by meta_noia_fot
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Alright, cabinets are finished. I followed the process from the video and your comment, @genek. Here’s a photo of a couple of sides in fading sunlight and a photo of the side with the veneer patch. Photos are after applications of sanding sealer, pigmented stain, and 3 layers of Danish Oil over top of the work discussed above.
Still a little splotchy up close but heaps better than it was. The patch was looking better but I hit it a little too hard while sanding the sealer.
Overall though I think they turned out quite nice. The next time I do a set of cabinets I think I’ll give this method another go with lessons learned. Thanks as always for your help, Gene. -
Great video. Hopefully I’ll make some more progress on this in the next couple of days. Thanks again, @genek
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Do you have a recommendation for a pigmented stain, @genek? The only thing at my local hardware store is Minwax, which I looked up and people say the cherry stain is pigment only.
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41 minutes ago, genek said:
You may still have some old finish in the grain in spots. Try rubbing it down with reducer (no stain) and see what happens.
That definitely helped. Here’s a before and after of a side. The splotchiness is reduced. Is there anything else I should do before applying tung oil?
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Unfortunately I ended up with splotchiness, @genek. It’s not so noticeable in a typical room but in direct sunlight it really comes out. Is there anything I can do at this point to improve their appearance?
I applied Mohawk ngr stain with a 3:1 reducer to stain ratio with a small amount of retarder mixed in. I wiped on and off as quickly as I could.
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Thanks for looking @DavidR but I don’t think either of those will work. The dcr should be somewhere around 8.8 I believe. That’s at least what I’m getting from the 200035 I have on hand. Seems this woofer is unique to the -93, at least according to this excellent pdf from AR55.
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Thanks @DavidR!
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I have a dead 8” woofer on a pair of AR-93’s. Looking for a replacement, preferably with the side-firing white dust cap but any 200035-0 will do.
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SOLD and gone
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SOLD - pending pickup
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Hi @DavidR. They are still technically available. I’ve been talking to a potential buyer but no money has changed hands yet. Pm me for more details about the speakers.
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Great info. Thanks so much @AR55
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Yes, thank you @fedeleluigi! So to me it appears the 1-2100450B is the Tonegen version of AR 200045 and the Tonegen version has a factory seam split (I wonder why).
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Here’s a couple more photos including the seam from the back. Unlike the foam surrounds, the seam seems competently done. Nothing about the spider seems disturbed either.
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I see the AR part no for the Lsi LMR is 200045. Would that be related to this driver, the 1-2100450B? I ask because all of the woofers in my pair are Tonegen-made and have the longer, alternate part no. Could the English factory have been using Tonegen drivers instead of regular AR parts?
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A pair of English-made AR-9Lsi’s came my way today. The previous owner had a terrible refoam job done on the midrange and 12” woofers (but forgot the 10” woofers). They also used a brittle glue so the foam is separating easily from the cone.
Before I refoam these, does anyone know if this midrange cone is correct? There is a seam split on the cone which I’ve never seen on an AR. The owner said they had been reconed but I think he meant refoamed.
edit to add: The driver appears to be correct but is the cone correct? Tonegen part no. 1-2100450B
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I saw that auction @frankmarsi and put in a losing bid. I was hoping to pair them with AR-2’s I’m working on but that wasn’t meant to be.
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So after removing some walnut veneer from an old 3a cabinet, it didn’t match well. I decided the cleanest way to do this patch would be to buy new veneer. I got a sample pack that contains Cherry, Mahogany, Maple, Red Oak, Walnut, and White Oak. Of course they aren’t labeled so I’ve been trying to figure out which is which. Could anyone confirm I have this correct? Photo is of the 6 samples laid on top of the AR-2. I arranged them in what I believe to be the order above from left to right. The veneer on the left is the one that most closely matches the cabinet in both grain and color.
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I’m also one of your “lurkers and monitors.” What engagement did you want with last night’s post? Was I supposed to ask what toppings you got on your pizza pie?
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That looks great @JKent. I still need to make permanent cables for mine and I’ll think I’ll pursue your route. Nice job.
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Price reduced: Now $700 if you pick up from me; $800 including delivery to Boston.
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@genekHow do you apply your NGR? I read spraying is the best method but I’ve also seen a retarder can be added to extend drying time to allow brush/wipe on.
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Thank you @genek. I have some tung oil and solvent on hand. I’ll look into NGR stain and reducer.
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Thanks @genek.
I think I would prefer a cherry stain personally. I decided that I’m going to stain these, but I haven’t done that before (Danish Oil is what I’m most familiar working with). I saw another poster in an archived thread had some really nice results with a gel stain and poly over it. I’m still early in my research on this. Do you have any recommendations?
In the meantime I need to replace the caps and clean the pots. No luck on oil caps for me; they were wax blocks in mine. Tomorrow I’m going to try to replace a small missing piece of veneer on a top cabinet edge. I recently saw one of Glenn’s threads and how neat his repairs are cutting out spare pieces of veneer. I have a busted pair of Classic-era walnut cabinets I can steal a little veneer from.
An AR-2 Project
in Acoustic Research
Posted
Looks like that limited color is only available in the larger size, and that costs more than I paid for the speakers. Good to know that option exists though and I may keep my eyes open for a cherry color of a different brand of wax paste.