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Woofer_01

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  1. For Andy Kotsatos This background info is so great to hear. Thank you for jumping in to explain how these wonderful models came to fruition So can we talk about the surrounds for a bit... Most of the controversy I have seen is with how the inside edge of the surround is mounted to the cone edge. On the OLA Henery used a "Reverse Roll" (or with the bulged portion of the surround ring facing inward and away from the listener) with the surround mounted under the Masonite board and the inside edge secured on top(?) of the cone lip. I have seen some OLA inner edges also mounted under the cone lip rather than on top. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ On the NLA and Advent/1 the surrounds are mounted to the frame with a "Forward Roll" (or the bulged portion of the surround ring facing outward toward the listener... which is the most common surround configuration we see today). The contriversy is with the surround inner lip being secured under the cone edge or on top of the cone edge. 1. Which configuration is most is most correct for the different speakers? 2. ...and what are the destructive and constructive differences that occurs from one configuration to the other?
  2. Hi Razorhack Sorry just saw this post and question... I got them from Parts Express. https://www.parts-express.com/Gold-Plated-Banana-5-Way-Speaker-Terminal-260-302
  3. ....and how did that go?
  4. DARN!! did you ever sell these?? I forgot about yours until scrolling around in here today I have two sets of AR18B's now... Just got the second set off eBay... they are due in Thursday and they are not as nice as yours either... grrrr My bad! One thing you are right about... they are wonderful speakers. I also have a set of AR 18S and they are perhaps only slightly better than the "B"s but not enough to worry about. They are indeed worth experiencing and spending time with.
  5. Oh you too? We live tortured lives... sigh I am buried in the following EPI (10 each? (not counting two EPI 100W with MDF water damage to the cabinets), AR (10 (no... I also have an orphan AR 28s *phew*) 11 each), Advents (10 each?), Klipsch (10 each), Cambridge Soundworks (8 each), and assorted misfits (a dozen maybe??) (wow!, 🤨 the number TEN must mean something... This is the first time I have tried to do a mental inventory of the "clutter") Seems the numbers are fluid as some things have been squirreled away...
  6. Slight variation with mine...
  7. Duplicate in error
  8. Baby Advent Tweeter repair... https://audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/baby-advent-tweeters-why-they-break-around-the-screw-holes-and-how-to-fix-them.951944/#post-14609549
  9. (This is an old post...) But if you are still here... try this using a Q-Tip to apply and smooth. you must It is best to place or bend the fine wire so it is close to the path you want, then hold the wire in place with a jewelers screw driver or tweezers while dabbing a very thin layer of the liquid on. It dries quick!
  10. AR 18B Restoration Set #1 Thoughts... Managed to track down a replacement grill... Grills cleaned same as above... Wool-Lite is great for getting old cigarette discoloration out of fabric (This method only works with PLASTIC GRILL FRAMES) The sound between the AR 18s and AR18B... They are very close...really The AR 18s is slightly brighter when doing a left-right comparison. WIll have more to say when I get more break-in time on them. AR Speakers in the works... AR-28S Orphan (Looking for a mate) Second set of AR 18B speakers due in (more on them later)
  11. "Every picture tells a story... don't it..." Here is my AR 18s restoration in pictures... Two comments... The crossover board is acoustically sealed with 2-sided foam tape and screwed on. The plastic framed grills are gently cleaned by soaking in roasting pans using "Wool-Lite" (last Picture).
  12. Awesome... Not bad for the first time! Restored...these speakers make better music than any of the news ones costing over $400. Enjoy them! Consider replacing the iron screw connection terminals in the back... pop out the woofer, unscrew the back old "round speaker connection", stick a Phillip's screw driver on the crossover side to hold the screw, remove the locking nut on the back, remove the old iron screw assembly (shown below) I put these in an old parts bag and taped them to the inside of the cabinet so they stay with the speaker after I am long gone. Someday they may have an historical value to some purest Now you have your choice of several updated gold-plated connection systems from a parts house like Parts Express I used these... (Disclaimer: I do not work for this company or would accepted (or have accepted) any kickbacks for this referral. It was just what I used) The new replacements just pop in the existing holes and on to the original wire terminals and fasten with the new gold plated nut (circled in picture) Here is what they look like after the upgrade This system accepts five different speaker connection options and provides better overall connection performance. Here is another option... This one I like because of the speed you can pop the wire or pin connectors in... Just push, insert, and release and you have a solid connection. These install just as quick and easy using the existing holes. (discard the gold wire tabs or use them to replace the old terminals). NOTE: These do stick out the back of the cabinet a bit so only consider them when you are not placing a speaker of a shelf or close to a wall (which is not a good idea for best soundstage. Most larger speakers sound better when carefully placed away from a back wall about 8-14 inches and angled to the listeners) No soldering or crimping required with either system if you use the old terminals which work just fine
  13. I have mostly "New England Sound" speakers... and also a few Klipsch. There are plenty of places to go for Klipsch, just not here. Here is the the charter for this group...read carefully the YELLOW HIGHLIGHTED TEXT
  14. Since the woofers are 8 ohm that means the amp is seeing a static ~4 ohms on each channel. Most of the EPI 8" woofers I have measured are ~7.6 ohms to 7.8 ohms (7.7 ohms seems the most common). Wiring the EPI woofers in parallel means the amp can now see ~3.8 ohms to 3.9 ohms for each speaker hookup. I measured some speakers (EPI, Advent, and AR) using the external hook up terminals this morning and found ALL of these speakers in a static state measure around 4.1 - 4.2 ohms. This includes some M180s I tested. So what's happening here? Where does the 8 ohms impedance come into play? I am assuming that the audio cine wave as it goes positive and negative causes the overall impedance to "look" or "feel" like ~8 ohms to the amplifier?
  15. Here is a version of the EPI M180 that came with the Tweeter switch. I rewired and recapped the crossover as shown, The schematic was a redraw of the original to match my updated wire labeling.
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