MoPhoX Posted August 30, 2017 Report Share Posted August 30, 2017 Hey folks, a couple weeks after I picked up the elsewhere mentioned AR5s, i noticed a neighbor had a bunch of junk on the curb. That's where I found the Model 17s, ready to be thrown away. Took em home and they were in great shape (much better than the AR5s). I have them sitting on top of the Acoustic Research AR11 Hi-Res floorstanding speakers and and running both on A/B speakers from a Onkyo TX-DS595. Paired with a simple sub, they sound great. I used to use the "All Stereo" surround setting that uses all speakers but I am preferring the A/B with the KLHs. I have the Hi Res series: two AR11s, two AR17s, and AR2C center. Quick pics are below. I have only one KLH badge for the very dated looking grilles. I just ordered the Vintage AR re-dope stuff. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted August 30, 2017 Report Share Posted August 30, 2017 Welcome Mo (fellow New Jerseyan) Nice speakers. I would strongly recommend a re-cap. The Seventeens used Callins PVC caps and they are notorious for leaking (or worse). Here's a thread that includes a schematic btw, I have some reproduction KLH labels for sale. PM me if interested. Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoPhoX Posted September 1, 2017 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2017 hi JKent - is there a specific cap I should get, or does anyone have a link to it on ebay? Also, would these old caps possibly damage the speaker? The other day I noticed that the high end didn't kick in until I turned the volume up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DavidDru Posted September 1, 2017 Report Share Posted September 1, 2017 The 17 may be my favorite speaker in that form factor. Paired with a nice vintage amp, they are hard to beat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted September 1, 2017 Report Share Posted September 1, 2017 Hi Mo For each speaker you need two 2uF caps and one 8uF. Use film caps. Brand does not matter (some people have favorites). Most of us here buy from Madisound or Parts Express. So if you shop Madisound you could get 4 of these: https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/surplus-capacitors/ (but the leads are short so you'll have to solder wires to them) or EIGHT of these (put pairs in parallel to make 2uF): https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/carli-capacitors/carli-mylar-1-mfd/ or 4 of these: https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/solen-capacitors/solen-2-mfd-fast-cap-400v/ or and two of these: https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/carli-capacitors/carli-mylar-8-mfd/ If you shop Parts Express get four of these: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dmpc-20-20uf-250v-polypropylene-capacitor--027-414 and 2 of these: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dmpc-82-82uf-250v-polypropylene-capacitor--027-426 (8.2 is close enough) or get 4 of these and parallel them: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dmpc-40-40uf-250v-polypropylene-capacitor--027-421 Yes--a completely shot cap could cause tweeter damage, ESPECIALLY when you turn the volume up. Read this thread. johnieo (John O'Hanlon) explains why you MUST replace the Callins caps: http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/IP.Board/index.php?/topic/5025-ar18-cap-value/ Be careful when working on the Seventeen xo. That stupid metal plate can cause a short so be sure everything is insulated/isolated from the plate. btw--both PE and Mad sell the Hi-Vi Q1R tweeter and 0.05mH inductor if you go that route for your AR-5s, so you can put together one order and save on shipping. Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Robthomp Posted September 12, 2017 Report Share Posted September 12, 2017 I bought a pair of Model Twenties a few months back. The Model Twenties are identical to the Seventeens except they are 4 ohm instead of 8 ohm. They sounded pretty good when I got them but then I recapped them and resealed the cloth surrounds on the woofers, and now they sound amazing. I used the caps from Parts Express that Kent suggested. Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoPhoX Posted January 27, 2018 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2018 Well I work real......slow.......... Anyhow, these are the caps - looks like OEMs, but not leaking. "Temple" caps. They look physically fine but probably need to be replaced. I'm going to take some time to study the schematic and/or bother JKent again..... and yes, I redoped them with the vintage AR sealant. Slooooowwwllly coming together.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted January 27, 2018 Report Share Posted January 27, 2018 2 hours ago, MoPhoX said: I'm going to take some time to study the schematic and/or bother JKent again..... No bother. Those caps may look fine but have probably drifted. Why take chances? I'd advise replacement. -Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Irvin Posted February 21, 2018 Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 Hey everybody,I am in the process of resealing a pair of model 17 bass speakers.I was wondering if I should use the AR type of sealant,or just reuse the thin foam ring. I am also wondering where to get the sealant?I used mobile home siding sealant for my ARs.Its the roll type,not the very sticky glue type.Only difference I can tell from the original is that it is .grey. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dxho Posted February 21, 2018 Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 The AR type sealant is for the cloth surrounds. The thin foam ring or grey sealant is for mounting the woofer in the cabinet. You may need both. After mounting the woofer in the cabinet, press the cone in and watch its return rate. If it springs back immediately, check the mounting. If you're sure there are no cabinet leaks around the woofer or the tweeter, then the AR sealant is probably called for. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Irvin Posted February 21, 2018 Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 Where would one acquire the black AR type sealant? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dxho Posted February 21, 2018 Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 RoyC on this forum can take care of you. The sealer is clear-ish now, but to the same effect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted February 21, 2018 Report Share Posted February 21, 2018 Rob, Just want to be sure we're talking about the same thing. dxho is referring to the sealant that RoyC cooked up to seal the cloth surrounds. It is the ONLY sealant you should use. But in the context of your question I believe we're talking about stuff to seal the driver frame to the baffle. 14 hours ago, Rob Irvin said: should use the AR type of sealant,or just reuse the thin foam ring. There are a few choices. Parts Express has this caulk that comes in thin round ropes or worms: https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-12-speaker-sealing-caulk-box-of-72-pcs--260-400 You can get essentially the same stuff locally. It's called Duct Seal and you'll find it in the electrical dept for just a few bucks. It's like childrn's plasticene clay and you break off a chunk and roll out your own "worms" about 1/4" diameter to seal the driver to the baffle. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gardner-Bender-16-oz-Duct-Seal/4595233 I (and many here) like PE's gasket tape. https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-speaker-gasketing-tape-1-8-x-3-8-x-50-ft-roll--260-540 Nice speakers. Good luck with them. Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Irvin Posted February 23, 2018 Report Share Posted February 23, 2018 Yes Jkent,I was talking about cab sealant.I have been using grey rope trailer sealent.not to sticky,more like putty.I sealed up cab's and had a marked improvement in sound quality. Thanks again,back to the AR's.Rob Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted February 23, 2018 Report Share Posted February 23, 2018 4 minutes ago, Rob Irvin said: I have been using grey rope trailer sealent. not to sticky, more like putty So something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FI5TT72/ref=asc_df_B00FI5TT725380390/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B00FI5TT72&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167126147920&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8057832305502213926&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003598&hvtargid=pla-306447191231 Should be perfect. Some classic speakers used Mortite window putty (also grey). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rob Irvin Posted February 23, 2018 Report Share Posted February 23, 2018 Yes,thats the stuff.Easy to apply,comes off pretty easy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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