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MoPhoX

Model Seventeens

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Hey folks, a couple weeks after I picked up the elsewhere mentioned AR5s, i noticed a neighbor had a bunch of junk on the curb. That's where I found the Model 17s, ready to be thrown away. Took em home and they were in great shape (much better than the AR5s). I have them sitting on top of the Acoustic Research AR11 Hi-Res floorstanding speakers and and running both on A/B speakers from a Onkyo TX-DS595. Paired with a simple sub, they sound great. I used to use the "All Stereo" surround setting that uses all speakers but I am preferring the A/B with the KLHs. I have the Hi Res series: two AR11s, two AR17s, and AR2C center. 

Quick pics are below. I have only one KLH badge for the very dated looking grilles. I just ordered the Vintage AR re-dope stuff.

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Welcome Mo (fellow New Jerseyan)

Nice speakers. I would strongly recommend a re-cap. The Seventeens used Callins PVC caps and they are notorious for leaking (or worse).  Here's a thread that includes a schematic 

btw, I have some reproduction KLH labels for sale. PM me if interested.

Kent

 

 

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hi JKent - is there a specific cap I should get, or does anyone have a link to it on ebay?

Also, would these old caps possibly damage the speaker?

The other day I noticed that the high end didn't kick in until I turned the volume up.

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The 17 may be my favorite speaker in that form factor.  Paired with a nice vintage amp, they are hard to beat.

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Hi Mo

For each speaker you need two 2uF caps and one 8uF. Use film caps. Brand does not matter (some people have favorites). Most of us here buy from Madisound or Parts Express. So if you shop Madisound you could get 4 of these: https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/surplus-capacitors/ (but the leads are short so you'll have to solder wires to them) or EIGHT of these (put pairs in parallel to make 2uF): https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/carli-capacitors/carli-mylar-1-mfd/ or 4 of these: https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/solen-capacitors/solen-2-mfd-fast-cap-400v/  or and two of these: https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/carli-capacitors/carli-mylar-8-mfd/

If you shop Parts Express get four of these: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dmpc-20-20uf-250v-polypropylene-capacitor--027-414  and 2 of these: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dmpc-82-82uf-250v-polypropylene-capacitor--027-426 (8.2 is close enough) or get 4 of these and parallel them: https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-dmpc-40-40uf-250v-polypropylene-capacitor--027-421

Yes--a completely shot cap could cause tweeter damage, ESPECIALLY when you turn the volume up. Read this thread. johnieo (John O'Hanlon) explains why you MUST replace the Callins caps: http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/IP.Board/index.php?/topic/5025-ar18-cap-value/

Be careful when working on the Seventeen xo. That stupid metal plate can cause a short so be sure everything is insulated/isolated from the plate.

btw--both PE and Mad sell the Hi-Vi Q1R tweeter and 0.05mH inductor if you go that route for your AR-5s, so you can put together one order and save on shipping.

Kent

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I bought a pair of Model Twenties a few months back. The Model Twenties are identical to the Seventeens except they are 4 ohm instead of 8 ohm. They sounded pretty good when I got them but then I recapped them and resealed the cloth surrounds on the woofers, and now they sound amazing. 

I used the caps from Parts Express that Kent suggested.

Rob

 

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Well I work real......slow..........

Anyhow, these are the caps - looks like OEMs, but not leaking. "Temple" caps. They look physically fine but probably need to be replaced. I'm going to take some time to study the schematic and/or bother JKent again.....

and yes, I redoped them with the vintage AR sealant. Slooooowwwllly coming together....

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2 hours ago, MoPhoX said:

I'm going to take some time to study the schematic and/or bother JKent again.....

No bother. Those caps may look fine but have probably drifted. Why take chances? I'd advise replacement.

-Kent

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Hey everybody,I am in the process of resealing a pair of model 17 bass speakers.I was wondering if I should use the AR type of sealant,or just reuse the thin foam ring.

I am also wondering where to get the sealant?I used mobile home siding sealant for my ARs.Its the roll type,not the very sticky glue type.Only difference I can tell from the original is that it is

.grey.

 

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The AR type sealant is for the cloth surrounds. The thin foam ring or grey sealant is
for mounting the woofer in the cabinet. You may need both. After mounting the woofer
in the cabinet, press the cone in and watch its return rate. If it springs back immediately,
check the mounting. If you're sure there are no cabinet leaks around the woofer or the
tweeter, then the AR sealant is probably called for.

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RoyC on this forum can take care of you. The sealer is clear-ish now, but to the 
same effect.

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Rob,

Just want to be sure we're talking about the same thing. dxho is referring to the sealant that RoyC cooked up to seal the cloth surrounds. It is the ONLY sealant you should use.

But in the context of your question I believe we're talking about stuff to seal the driver frame to the baffle.

14 hours ago, Rob Irvin said:

should use the AR type of sealant,or just reuse the thin foam ring.

There are a few choices. Parts Express has this caulk that comes in thin round ropes or worms: https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-12-speaker-sealing-caulk-box-of-72-pcs--260-400

You can get essentially the same stuff locally. It's called Duct Seal and you'll find it in the electrical dept for just a few bucks. It's like childrn's plasticene clay and you break off a chunk and roll out your own "worms" about 1/4" diameter to seal the driver to the baffle. https://www.lowes.com/pd/Gardner-Bender-16-oz-Duct-Seal/4595233

I (and many here) like PE's gasket tape. https://www.parts-express.com/parts-express-speaker-gasketing-tape-1-8-x-3-8-x-50-ft-roll--260-540

Nice speakers. Good luck with them.

Kent

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Yes Jkent,I was talking about cab sealant.I have been using grey rope trailer sealent.not to sticky,more like putty.I sealed up cab's and had a marked improvement in sound quality.

Thanks again,back to the AR's.Rob

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4 minutes ago, Rob Irvin said:

I have been using grey rope trailer sealent. not to sticky, more like putty

So something like this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FI5TT72/ref=asc_df_B00FI5TT725380390/?tag=hyprod-20&creative=395033&creativeASIN=B00FI5TT72&linkCode=df0&hvadid=167126147920&hvpos=1o1&hvnetw=g&hvrand=8057832305502213926&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9003598&hvtargid=pla-306447191231

Should be perfect. Some classic speakers used Mortite window putty (also grey). 

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