Box repair with epoxy glue - best brand?

[Pete B]

I have read a few times here the suggestion to use epoxy glue

with added tint to repair small chips in the corners of a

box. Does anyone have a suggested brand that works well in

terms of hardness, and minimal shrinking?

Thanks in advance!

[deek]

For some furniture I fixed up a year ago I used T88 from System Three. It's not the hardest epoxy I've ever used but harder than veneer! It also dries a subtle amber color and will take varnish.

-Deek

[Pete B]

Thanks I'll keep that in mind, but I was thinking of something

I could buy locally. Wondering how any of the common brands

work for this task.

[RoyC]

Thanks I'll keep that in mind, but I was thinking of something

I could buy locally. Wondering how any of the common brands

work for this task.

Hi Pete,

I'm a big fan of Mohawk epoxy putty sticks. You can mix various colors and also use stain to achieve desired shades. It is not messy, doesn't shrink, easy to shape, and dries harder than the cabinet. I find using liquid epoxy to be messy...and the cured hardness to be overkill for wood working, imo. If you have a small job I can send you some. The downside is that it is expensive.

http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_browse.asp?ictNbr=113

Roy

[Pete B]

Thanks very much Roy, no need to send any I'll place an order.

[genek]

I also use the Mohawk sticks. They come in a variety of wood-like colors and as Roy mentioned you can add color to the epoxy as you mix it, but I prefer to pick a color that is slightly lighter than the desired color and then use graining pens to get a match. The colors change as the putty cures, and once curing has happened the patch won't absorb new stain.

[JKent]

Good tips Roy and Gene. I'll have to try the graining pens.

I've been successful with the liquid, making little dams for forms. I don't think the brand is terribly important. Got some in the hardware store--may have been Permatex--comes in 2 squeeze bottles. The kind that comes in a double "syringe" is easy to use and mix accurately. John O'Hanlon, who turned me on to Mixol/epoxy in the first place recommends against the 5 minute kind in favor of the slow cure. Better when you sand it with an orbital sander.

A friend who is a professional woodturner has found that West System makes the best epoxy. BUT it comes in rather large quantities. A gallon may be the smallest. Google West System--they will send you a free subscription to their magazine, which contains some useful tips for using epoxies.

Kent

PS Here's the link. Some how-to sections and product descriptions:

http://www.westsystem.com/ss/

[genek]

The sticks are easy to use a little at a time. The two parts are in a single stick, and you just slice off what you need and roll it in your hands until they're blended. It works like modeling clay, and after it sits for a minute or two you can carve off excess with a razor knife. I carve it to shape, then let it cure and scrape it with the blade to smooth it and in most cases no sanding is required to feather it into the surrounding wood.

[deek]

Most of the Permatex stuff is good. The ultra-high-strength and hardness stuff (of any brand) will shrink considerably.

-Deek

[RoyC]

in most cases no sanding is required to feather it into the surrounding wood.

Agreed, Gene,

....and if sanding is required it sands easily, and does not gum up the sandpaper.

Roy

[Pete B]

I'm sure that the professional Mohawk sticks are going to be excellent

based on the comments. I'll just add that I tried a few of the common

readily available epoxy glues and found the Devcon 30min/2hr "2 Ton

Clear Weld Epoxy" type to shrink far too much.

Also found that Loctite "General Purpose" 5 min epoxy was much better

with much less shrinkage; they claim that it is good as a filler and

that it is sandable.

These carry warnings concerning skin contact, vapors, and sanding dust.

I've not tried sanding them yet.

I'm working on a box that will be painted so color is not an issue.

Curious about JB Weld as I think it dries harder and is readily

available however I don't think there is a clear version so it would

only be applicable for painted boxes.

[genek]

For boxes that are going to be painted, just get some bondo from the auto dept.

[RoyC]

For boxes that are going to be painted, just get some bondo from the auto dept.

I agree. For large jobs bondo works great...nasty fumes though.

For small areas the epoxy putty found in any hardware store will work fine if color is not an issue. Setting time varies from 5 to 10 minutes depending on the type and brand.

Home Depot carries a variety of epoxy putty (steel colored, plumbing, high temp, wood/tan colored, etc) and they all will work fine if the cabinet is to be painted. I've never experienced shrinkage with any epoxy putty. It is all basically the same as the Mohawk stuff without the color variety. I've used them all at one time or another.

Roy

[JKent]

you can also add filler to the liquid epoxy. Fine sawdust, such as what you would empty out of the dust collection bag on an orbital sander, works well. It will become much darker when mixed with epoxy, but if you are painting the box no problem. I have also used those sticks from HD/Lowes that Roy mentions. Very convenient.

Kent

[Pete B]

I'm finding the glues to be very different much more shrinkage

with some. I have used bondo for automotive body repairs and

have had the impression that bondo would easily chip if used

for corner repairs in cabinets. I believe it is better as a

surface filler as it was intended to be used. It just seems

that the glues will form a stronger bond with the wood.

I just tried the Mohawk and like it very much but did not see

as strong warnings about skin exposure. I just do my best not

to get the glues on my skin but with this you have to knead it

do most of you wear gloves?

[RoyC]

I'm finding the glues to be very different much more shrinkage

with some. I have used bondo for automotive body repairs and

have had the impression that bondo would easily chip if used

for corner repairs in cabinets. I believe it is better as a

surface filler as it was intended to be used. It just seems

that the glues will form a stronger bond with the wood.

I just tried the Mohawk and like it very much but did not see

as strong warnings about skin exposure. I just do my best not

to get the glues on my skin but with this you have to knead it

do most of you wear gloves?

Pete,

Gloves are not easy to use, as the epoxy tends to stick to them. I knead it with my fingers...isopropyl alcohol works for clean-up.

Roy

[genek]

Gloves are not easy to use, as the epoxy tends to stick to them. I knead it with my fingers...isopropyl alcohol works for clean-up.

I use disposable blue surgical gloves if I'm going to be doing an extended session with fillers, stains finishes, but for a quick patch, bare hands and washing with soap and water after seems perfectly adequate for me.