administrator Posted September 4, 2009 Report Share Posted September 4, 2009 I got home from work recently and had a note from the maid that basically said "sorry" next to one of my AR303a speakers. I'm not sure how she managed to do this, but it doesn't really matter now... any thoughts on how to best repair? I was thinking wood glue (do I need a special kind?) and Old English to cover up a some damage to the top right corner of the front panel.Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tysontom Posted September 4, 2009 Report Share Posted September 4, 2009 I got home from work recently and had a note from the maid that basically said "sorry" next to one of my AR303a speakers. I'm not sure how she managed to do this, but it doesn't really matter now... any thoughts on how to best repair? I was thinking wood glue (do I need a special kind?) and Old English to cover up a some damage to the top right corner of the front panel.MarkMark,If the panel popped out that easily (and it doesn't look like there was much glue initially), then it is probably better that this happened the way it did. Perhaps this speaker was manufactured on a Friday.... I would use Carpenter's Glue or equivalent, or you could also use epoxy. Some of the other similar glues would work well, such as the Gorilla glue, etc., but some types tend to foam-up a bit upon curing.--Tom Tyson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ar_pro Posted September 4, 2009 Report Share Posted September 4, 2009 Well, there's a corner that was cut in the re-issue - I don't believe I've ever seen an AR-3a pop a panel!You'll need glue & clamps, Mark - I'd take it to a furniture repair shop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
genek Posted September 4, 2009 Report Share Posted September 4, 2009 I would avoid using epoxy, because nothing adheres well to cured epoxy, including more epoxy, and if the joint ever fails it'll be harder to glue it together again. Go with a regular wood glue (I like the clear resins):http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_br....asp?ictNbr=261If you don't already have any, head over to your local hardward store for some web clamps:http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=10290Three or four should be enough for the height of a speaker. Once the glue has dried, you can patch chips or gaps with colored fill sticks:http://www.mohawk-finishing.com/catalog_br....asp?ictNbr=106 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnieo Posted September 4, 2009 Report Share Posted September 4, 2009 MarkLay your speaker on its backside on a hard floor that has been covered with a sheet of plastic or paper. Raise backside a bit with two sticks, (if there are any terminals projecting beyond the cabinet backside).Use the proper glue. What people "like" is not always the best. I have a shelf full for various applications. Here I would use Franklin (or Titebond) liquid hide glue. First, it is slow setting giving you much time to coat and align in its final location. Second it dries to a color similar to the cabinet, and third, any excess can be wiped clean with a wet cloth, even after it has been set for a bit. It dries in 24 hours. This is a first choice for antique furniture.Sand free any raised glue bumps on the frame and cabinet with some 100- or 120-grit paper--that will make it easier to obtain a tight accurate realignment. Careful not to sand the wood; just any dried glue lumps! Next always "dry fit" a joint with weights/clamps, to see if it aligns, and the clamp mechanism works perfectly. You don't want to be running for one last clamp while the glue is drying! As with glue choices, there are many ways to apply force beween two surfaces. This is a perfect use of a deadweight. (The frame cannot move sidewise.) Place a layer of waxed paper on the top of the cabinet, then deadweights--some old college textbooks on each corner would work well, and perhaps a board across the center with books on its top. Check to see that you have enough force available, and that the two pieces mate all the way around. This is the time to find more weights, not while the glue is wet!! Now remove all this baggage and set it nearby.Brush glue evenly on both the cabinet and grille frame. Gently relocate the frame; the force downward will "self align." Wipe any excess glue from the assembled joint. Reset the waxed paper and weights exactly as before. After a few minutes, look for extruded glue. If any, lift and wipe away excess. If you really screwed up, it can be re-assembled realigned or tweaked. That is one beauty of a slow-setting glue. If when dry, you spot a lump of glue, sand it flush; if needed hide glue will take a stain.Cheers,John Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kkantor Posted September 4, 2009 Report Share Posted September 4, 2009 I got home from work recently and had a note from the maid that basically said "sorry" next to one of my AR303a speakers. I'm not sure how she managed to do this, but it doesn't really matter now... any thoughts on how to best repair? I was thinking wood glue (do I need a special kind?) and Old English to cover up a some damage to the top right corner of the front panel.MarkOuch! Glad your maid's foot didn't break the fall. (Though I suspect you might have mixed feelings...) Doesn't look that hard to repair, fortunately. If you can snap a few more photos, it would help me to understand exactly what came apart. Some questions/comments:1- Check the driver terminals, to be sure the wires didn't pull them too hard.2- If the terminals are OK, play some bass-heavy music at a low-ish level, or a 50 Hz sine wave, to make sure the woofer is moving freely and doesn't have a bent frame. (Don't worry about the open cab, it won't hurt the woofer if you keep the level reasonable.) 3- JO's approach seems right. If you place the panels back together, is the fit pretty snug? If it is, you can probably get away with just using many strips of masking tape to hold things together while the glue hardens. If you find any problems with the box or drivers, we can go to Plan B, but here's hoping for the best!-k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted September 4, 2009 Report Share Posted September 4, 2009 MarkJohn is a master woodworker and I knew he would give you the right advice. The only thing I would add: If the corner bash requires filling, don't use "plastic wood"--it will eventually just fall off. Another bit of advice from John is the epoxy & Mixol trick, shown on page 4 of my KLH Model Eight restoration guide:http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/library...h_model_eig.pdfGood luckKent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
administrator Posted September 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 4, 2009 I really appreciate the advice from everyone and hope to get to the hardware store on Sunday. I'll update this thread once I finish the repair! I'm pretty confident I can resolve everything in an afternoon, other than the damage to the cabinet corner. I'll read through the KLH repair document and come up with a plan...Mark Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kkantor Posted September 5, 2009 Report Share Posted September 5, 2009 Geeze, who is your maid, Conan the Barbarian?Howard FerstlerI think that would be, Reconan the Barbarian....-k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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