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AR 5


dna
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Picked up this pair of AR 5s today S/Ns 35194 and 35186. I have seen other ARs with the wires traveling across the front panel; they are covered over with electrical tape. is this typical? They sure are in nice shape, heavy too! From the pics on line some had these wires across the panel and other (prolly later editions?) had the wires inside. I'm thinking AR coated the exposed wires with a non-conductive coating would any one know what would work for that today do I want to do that or leave well enough alone? I will get inside tomorrow to check out the caps, The seller said they were gone over 6 years ago by a pro shop in Seattle (I live in the Puget Sound area) I imagine they re-foamed and re-capped them but I'll know fersure tomorrow. It's been a long day, 2 hour ride to the location and 2 hours back as well, funny how that works...

IMG_20200629_205138005.jpg

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1 hour ago, dna said:

Picked up this pair of AR 5s today S/Ns 35194 and 35186. I have seen other ARs with the wires traveling across the front panel; they are covered over with electrical tape. is this typical? They sure are in nice shape, heavy too! From the pics on line some had these wires across the panel and other (prolly later editions?) had the wires inside. I'm thinking AR coated the exposed wires with a non-conductive coating would any one know what would work for that today do I want to do that or leave well enough alone?

The front-wired tweeters and mids are the most common configuration. I'm not sure when the back-wired version showed up, but I believe it was after 40,000. (There were around 50,000 AR-5's manufactured.) The leads under the tape are copper tinsel wire with no special coating.

If the tape is peeling up, you can very carefully replace it on the mid's leads. The tweeter leads are tricky, and are usually better left alone unless you have done it before. On the other hand, the tweeters often have compromised output, and may need to be removed for service anyway. Check 'em out first!

Roy

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8 hours ago, dna said:

I imagine they re-foamed and re-capped them

Nice AR5s. If they have Sprague Compulytic caps you are probably ok.  If so,lListen before you remove them unless you just want to replace caps.  Re the tweeter: Roy is being conservative.  It would be a miracle if this style tweeter operates at anywhere close to the original output.  They can be repaired.  There are zero new replacements.

 

Adams

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Where could I get the tweeters repaired if needs be? The owner indicated they were overhauled at some shop in Seattle 6 years ago. The foams look pretty good, too good not to be of recent vintage.... My getaway  is 12' X 16' with 8' walls and a 4' peak, I have a Pioneer SX 780 tuner and the AR 5, 58, and 17s towered with a pair of Pioneer S? 100 that I'm not (they need re-capped) using right now.  It makes for a pretty good listening room....:) I saw 2 blue and 1 orange cap, that orange on sure is large. The leads from them are so short I can't rotate them to see the brand or rating.

IMG_20200630_113356859.jpg

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Those are Sprague Compulytic Caps.  PM  @RoyC or @Chris1this1 for Tweeter repair.  If you desire originality tweeter repair is the way to go.  You might be satisfied with the HiVi Q1R tweeter mod which is less expensive if you DIY.   Download and read the AR3a Restoration Guide, you will find the AR5 is much like the 3a in layout.  It is also practically identical in sound quality.

Adams

 

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Thanks for the valuable info! Would they be of recent or current vintage?

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8 hours ago, dna said:

Thanks for the valuable info! Would they be of recent or current vintage?

Early 1970s.   If you have serial  numbers you can get more precise. If you look on the driver magnets you may see date stamps.  If you remove the tweeters be very careful with the plastic flanges and lead wires. Same for mids. Recommend you not remove the mids unless you absolutely must, they are not repairable and replacements are rare but they are durable and do not seem to degrade with time.

Adams

 

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