DavidR
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Posts posted by DavidR
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I'd try and remove the old glue.
Titebond should work. Comes in a caulking tube.
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Not sure what side panels you are referring to.
Could you post a picture?
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Nice repair work Giovanni
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1 hour ago, giovanni56 said:
Riparare il supporto della bobina mobile leggermente schiacciato sul bordo inferiore, ma abbastanza da sfregare nell'intercapedine d'aria e riformare la schiuma.
Translation:
Repair voice coil holder slightly squashed on bottom edge, but enough to rub in air gap and re-foam. -
The A2 is a well received amp. I think you'll be happy.
I have an A100 Headphone amp and run speakers with it (50wpc 8ohm/80wpc 4ohm). Clarity and stereo separation is stunning.
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12 hours ago, sWilly said:
I'm wondering if the Emotiva BasX A2 Might be a good fit with the 3a's? 250 WPC at 4ohms.
You have a 30 day return window.
I've owned 2 Emo amps. First the XPA2 Gen2 which I sold and got an SA250 which I liked so much I got a second one.
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My AR9 Owner's manual has the impedance dip to 3.2 ohms.
I have no clue about your Quad 606. Sorry.
I used to have a CT-7. Nice, attractive Pre. Doesn't the CT-7 have 2 Pre Outs? or am I thinking of my C-1 ?
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Don't invite an Addams over ...............
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Must be 3 union workers
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@lARrybody IIRC you re-capped 2 air of 9s and one was with NPE and the other with film. If so what were your impressions between the two ?
@sWilly The Mundorf ECaps are a well made NPE. My meter allows me to test for things like Dissipation Factor, Quality and Theta (phase angle). The Bennic, MDL and Dayton NPE were all pretty much the same - minor differences, if any, for same capacitance. The Mundorf (F&T) measured better.
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6 hours ago, Brad1234 said:
I recapped my AR 3a's with the Jantzen Crosscap foil capacitors and have not really been happy with them. i have done a ton of recap jobs with the Audyn Q4 caps and they sound really nice, loud and super clear to me. I am planning to recap my AR3a's again with Audyns and see if it brightens them up some. They are not cheap and I feel bad I already spent so much on the Jantzens only to have to do it all over again.
How many hours do you have on the new Jantzen caps? Some caps can take 200 to 400 hours to 'settle in'. If I'm using film caps in a speaker project I will always 'run them in' prior to installation by playing an audio signal thru them.
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I've used the Parts Express caps in my AR90 and AR9 large value caps.
Personally I'd combine the 47uF with a 2.7uF. This is where Parts Connxtion is good. An email to them saying you need a 50uF without being higher than 50uF. A buck a pair to match. No one else will do that at that price.
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https://www.partsconnexion.com/capacitors-ele-mundorf-e-cap-ac-series.html
scroll down the page.
Part Express has larger values, too : https://www.parts-express.com/electronic-parts/capacitors/non-polarized-electrolytic-capacitors
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On 12/6/2022 at 3:28 AM, sWilly said:
I haven't tested the capacitors yet but I plan to replace them regardless. Can anyone guide me on purchasing new caps and the appropriate wiring? I'll need to replace the 6mfd 50v as well as the large brick. I could really use some help there.
I suggest you go with Non-Polar caps as were originally installed and not go the film cap route. The speakers will sound as they were intended/designed to. I have gone both routes with other AR speakers. One thing you can do is add a 0.01uF bypass film cap in parallel to the mid and tweeter series caps.
You can get good NPE caps at https://www.partsconnexion.com/capacitors-ele.html
Mundorf and Jantzen (both made by F&T, a German company) are of good quality. They will match caps for a $1 per pair. The president of the company is very helpful. Can't think of his first name atm but last name is Johnson. I've used the ECap70 Mundorf series. IIRC LARybody has used the Jantzen and has used both NPE and film in AR9s. I don't know if he ever gave his impressions.
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@mnboland: if you don't have an LCR to read your capacitors and feel like a drive out to MetroWest I can do it for you. I'm minutes from Rt9/Mass Pike.
Just PM me if you have interest.
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I love my 10Pi but they are no match for the 90 or 9s
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Nice work and good choice on caps.
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A lot of people who cut/shape foam use an electric knife.
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I've used (2) x 1000uF + (1) x 500uF NPE in parallel. I haven't detected any issues.
From the (6) Callins 2500uF caps I've replaced only one was within spec for capacitance. I have no idea what the original ESR was.
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Hi @frankmarsi,
Most new Class AB amps, if not all, are known as 'current pushing' amps these days. They do a better job at driving difficult loads.
As for wattage, high is not necessarily better. I had several of the M series Caver amps that were modified to develop more watts. The M1.0t had 460wpc into 8 ohms. It didn't do as good of a job vs my Emotiva/Sherbourne SA-250 at 250wpc, a dual-mono current pushing class AB amp.
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The 2500uF.
Can your amp handle/stable at < 2 ohm loads ? Your amp may not be happy and may release the 'magic smoke'
The other drivers will not be affected as far as impedance.
Doubt you will hear a difference.
There are at least 3 other threads on this topic.
Not recommended.
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Solen
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John, curious what cap you used in the UMR 40uF notch filter circuit? It could have played a role in the bad SQ.
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My 90s began to sound dull and I was beginning to think the tweeters had dried up ferrofluid. Many of the caps measured in spec for uF but were acting like resistors.
ar tsw910
in Acoustic Research
Posted
You could also use Liquid Nails.
Both should be available at a Home Depot.
Merry Christmas to you, as well.