DavidR
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Posts posted by DavidR
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2 hours ago, RoyC said:
I'm thinking AR would more likely be similar to "Legacy" if in business today. https://legacyaudio.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQiA_bieBhDSARIsADU4zLenRY3zVIDRJLPlMIqinGJsuADKL2FcjilRZ_mu0tIjNu_9U-vxEuAaAvlQEALw_wcB
I agree. I've read that Bill Dudleston is an AR fan.
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If I can ever get my son to take the 91s over his TSW610 I will swap woofers. The 10Pi are keepers.
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Can anyone really hear a difference between AR and Tonegen woofers? They are so similar in appearance.
One member here suggested I pull the AR woofers from my 91s and put them in my 10Pi. Haven't done it yet and don't know if there would be a big enough difference.
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19 minutes ago, lakecat said:
The dent on tweeter dust cap will be tough to get out as it is a harder material. Kind of like a plastic so water and tube probably won't work. Hate the thought of a needle also in trying to pry it out. Maybe heating it with a blow dryer to soften it and then a tube to suck the dent out? Any ideas?
Its so small it's most likely not affecting the sound. Leave it be.
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Great score !
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1 hour ago, ar_pro said:
Those are surprisingly poor readings.
Did you happen to check your meter against a capacitor that you know to be in spec?
I thought so too.
NPE caps need to be checked at 1000Hz. Make sure your meter is on uF and 1,000Hz
You could also try https://www.partsconnexion.com/capacitors-ele.html
They have Mundorf ECap and Jantzen. Just make sure they are non-polar.
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200uF + 150uF in parallel NPE
That's what I used.
Just think how good they will sound with new caps.
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I don't know for sure but I've always heard the yellow button tweeters are the ones sought after.
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54 minutes ago, Mr. Weather said:
I started disassemly. I am labeling all of the parts with the last 3 digits of the serial number of the speaker they came from. (521 and 518). Probably this makes no difference but couldn't hurt.
I also keep parts with the respective speaker. Why not.
I did my boards in place but mine are very early production and don't have the board with the resistors. The 6uF cap on the far side was a bitch to get at. Really had to take my time and get my lighting right. Yes, carefully pry the staples out. The boards may also be glued down. The advice I always give myself is have no expectation as to how long anything should take. Take your time and be patient.
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You'll have to see if the screws turn out. The one I have in the pics did not stand straight until I leveled the surfaces. I had to use new screws.
The pedestal base shouldn't be attached with glue, just the (4) screws.
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Here's a thread by me on my first pair of AR9s. Start on page 6. It shows the work I did on the speaker base and what I call the pedestal-base - the piece with the circular hole. The guy I bought these from would drag them out to his backyard garden area and have parties. I actually found a dried up earthworm inside by the lower xover board. The pedestal base seems to be a somewhat soft (on purpose, I think) piece of pressed fiber board of some type. I think the circular hole is to help steady them on carpeted surfaces.
Both the speaker base and pedestal were warped and quite irregular.
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My first pair of 9s had moisture damage at the bottoms. One had way more than the other. I would not have been able to stabilize the wood and save a pair of 9s without this resin. Thank GD70 (Glenn) who does great wood work on ARs.
I do not think either the 9 or 90s came with feet. Those small holes are for the screws that hold the base plate with the circular hole to the actual base/bottom of the speaker.
IIRC, some have put feet on theirs. Usually the spikes for carpeting.
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Those bottoms look like they might have gotten damp. If they are punky you should lightly sand them to get the paint off and use this stuff to harden up the mdf.
A perfect spray paint to repaint is Rustoleum Universal Satin Black #462466 and is available at Home Depot.
(I hope this post meets John's approval)
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8 hours ago, johnfalc said:
I'm sorry there's been communication failure here. All I ever said was that the woofers of the 90 are out of phase with the other three drivers, whereas the woofers of the 9 are in phase with the other three drivers. I then linked to drawings in the library here which show this to be the case. I never said "you are wrong" ... all I did was post information that supported what I (and others on this thread) had stated re the difference between the arrangement of the 90s and the 9s. Let's just enjoy the speakers.
I read thru all the posts again. The OP reported lack of bass. Issue was a speaker wire to the binding post was reversed (if I read it right - its late). Another member suggested the 90 was like the 9 and to make sure all connections were wired in-phase. I do disagree with that. A third member mentioned lack of bass and a possibility they were mis-wired (on the woofers if I'm reading it correctly) when he got them. He reversed them and reported good bass. I posted a reminder as to how the 90s are wired.
About 3 years ago a member noted his surround system was indicating the 90s were out-of-phase. I posted that the tweeter, UMR and LMR are indeed wired out-of-phase but the woofers are wired in-phase. I did not deviate from that in this thread or any other post/thread. When you say "the woofers of the 90 are out of phase with the other three drivers" its very misleading and IMO not correctly worded as the 'other 3 drivers' are the ones wired out-of-phase. This means the POS side of the driver is wired to the NEG side of crossover and ultimately the NEG speaker wire from the amp.
So I'm miffed as to your statement. One of my pet peeves is wasting time; but I'm over it.
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On 1/13/2023 at 2:17 PM, johnfalc said:
woofers out of phase
and you repeatedly told me I was wrong in what I wrote
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47 minutes ago, johnfalc said:
Ah - then we are in agreement.
I don't believe that's what you wrote. You wrote that the 90 drivers were ALL out-of-phase.
- not amused -
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1 hour ago, Stimpy said:
Per the AR schematics, the upper drivers of the 9, are in phase with it's woofers. The 90s are opposite; the upper drivers are out of phase to their woofers.
Correct. The rest is speculation and your guess as to why is as good as mine (a few posts back).
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Attached schematic by R. Lowe who did a GREAT job.
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This was the best trace job I could do on my laptop.
The dotted lines are merely the upper and lower boards and what is located on them.
In the pic of the lower board you can see the red wires and the coil hooked to one side of the cap. Follow the coil to the other side and you will see the >> and where it changes to a white wire. It is not the same white wire as that used on the LMR and they are not connected. Its beyond me why AR didn't continue with red. In the 2nd pic, the upper board, you will see that woofer/white wire is hooked to the POS terminal. ALL others are hooked to the NEG side and all those are for the other drivers (but not the woofers).
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No; I don't believe that is correct John. The AR90 schematic has the woofers red wires going to POS at the woofer AND at the binding post. That would be in-phase.
Take another look. You will see the U bend in the line crossing the NEG wire near the speaker jacks/binding posts. That means it is not connected to the NEG wire.
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2 hours ago, Mr. Weather said:
Yes, our cat is quite unique.
We had a cat just like that. Her name was Sassy. She was the only cat we have had that we allowed outdoors as she was the adventurous type. My neighbor, Mr Not-So-Friendly, puts DeCon out in his yard (illegal btw) and she got into it. She died a horrible death. We will never allow any of our cats outside again. Too many critters that would want to eat them anyway (coyote, fox, fisher). I sometimes wonder if Mr Not-So-Friendly wonders why his aluminum sided house is riddled with pellet holes. Oh well.
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28 minutes ago, Mr. Weather said:
Does anyone have the size measurements for the AR90 badge?
2" wide by 1" high
Often can be found on eBay. I didn't see any just now.
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22 minutes ago, Mr. Weather said:
2. Also, at least one of the woofers has no seal or gasket between it and the cabinet. These were probably lost when the surrounds were replaced. The owners manual says these are not reusable. Can these be purcahsed new? What's the best route here? No seal? Adhesive foam tape? other?
You need to use a gasket. Not sealing them properly will result in poor performance and SQ.
If the original gaskets are in good condition they can be used. Just make sure the screws are kept tight. A suitable replacement is the white window foam insulation sold at Home Depot. I forget the dimensions but its something like 3/8" wide and 1/4" thick.
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The wiring schematic for the 9 and 90 show both their woofers are in-phase and are in parallel to each other. So no difference.
The 90 has a smaller shunt cap and has a zobel circuit whereas the 9 has the 2500uF 'tank' circuit.
Suggestions for AR-3a Cabinet Finish
in Acoustic Research
Posted
Beautiful grain and finish.