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DavidR

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Posts posted by DavidR

  1. On 4/1/2023 at 6:22 PM, RoyC said:

    Careful, or we'll be heading to the kitchen :).  Since we've arrived here, it seems you have dubbed yourself a capacitor expert with your apparently calibrated ears. Accordingly, you are actually the only person I have had a problem with in recent years. We've made our points.

    You dubbed me a capacitor expert. I give my opinion which you don't like. There are differences in capacitors and reasons for it. I worked in an industry that coated paper, plastic and other substrates, we even vacuum deposited aluminum on paper.  As an engineer I know what makes a good product or an average one. The differences are because of material quality, equipment that process the materials used and wind the caps and even attachment techniques. If you like Dayton then use them. I don't and know the reasons why I hear white noise in them.

    YOU are a bully!

    I am now going to block you so I don't have to be attacked by you as YOU are always the aggressor.

     

    OH L@@K ! What's that he said?

    image.thumb.png.b66240875e0fde21ef77990c1af30485.png

    Oh, look: another false accusation from RoyC about what he says I said. It was not me who said PE was made by MDL. What else will I find.

    image.thumb.png.3234d0390caea9a4767ef84e702f7ca0.png

     

    You have always been the aggressor and unsubstantiated IMO. You just can't stand an opinion that differs from yours. You should treat your friends better. Carl and I had a longtime offline chat going with a few other members. Seems he had many agreements with my opinions.

    image.thumb.png.ca44378b1e12c9a25927f5faa33b8047.png

    Gee Roy, another false accusation from you. I've been thru every post I have made and nowhere did I ever say a more expensive cap must sound better. I have said that a cap made with quality materials and quality equipment will yield a better capacitor. I stand behind that statement with my many years of engineering in an industry that made products similar to those in capacitors.

    image.thumb.png.e93c9a4ba98b20b61e87265f9427a3c6.png

  2. 1 hour ago, RoyC said:

    Based on your statement above, the implication was MDL was somehow inferior to the rest of the caps mentioned in your post.

    No, YOU inferred that. I would prefer to use ECaps or Bennic for the large values. Its a preference and may not be based off of anything you might consider worthy. I listed Parts Express as another source for npe caps. You can get MDL thru Madisound.

    A Canadian audio amigo has been to the Solen factory and saw them making Dayton. So he says.

    I never mentioned MDL being made by another company. Others have said Bennic made Dayton and its possible I even restated that not knowing what I later learned.

    Yes, I do have a problem with working with the short, thin leads. I have a hereditary disease in my hands and am facing my 4th surgery; third on my left hand. I do see this as a reason. I'm tired of you harassing me and other members because of petty differences of opinion. You even did it to Carl. If you don't like what I say you can block me. Many times I have praised you for taking the time to 'coach' me in my first surround replacement; but I get this as a response. Others have said they too are tired of this harassment, too. Seems every audio site has at least one.

  3. 2 hours ago, RoyC said:

    David,

    I've actually been finding MDL caps to measure and perform as well as Parts Express npe caps. I use them interchangeably these days.

    ERSE is the only common npe crossover cap I have found to be inferior, but I think that company went out of business.

    Roy

    Basically I do not approve of the dinky (very thin) leads. But, yes, they do tend to measure well. Nothing to do with sound quality.

  4. 43 minutes ago, lARrybody said:

    Mundorf Plain and Janzen Smooth NPE's have been discontinued,

    I know that F&T, a German capacitor company, made the Mundord Ecap and one of the Jantzen cap lines. Parts Connxton still have the Mundorf Plain.

    https://www.partsconnexion.com/capacitors-ele-mundorf-e-cap-ac-series.html

    https://www.partsconnexion.com/jantzen-elecap.html

    Parts Express has NPEs made by Solen.   https://www.parts-express.com/electronic-parts/capacitors/non-polarized-electrolytic-capacitors

    I'm not a big fan of MDL but they work.

  5. 27 minutes ago, meta_noia_fot said:

    Going back through my bookmarks, and it was your AR90 recapping thread that convinced me to give NPE's a try.

    https://community.classicspeakerpages.net/topic/11173-re-cappi-my-ar90s/

     

    Thanks. The crossover was designed for NPE so with no other changes to a film cap route they just don't sound 'right'.

    I wouldn't use the Vishay 1837 again but only because they needed the leads lengthened and soldered quickly. The CD940C is better anyway.

     

  6. 3 hours ago, meta_noia_fot said:

    Nice find. I picked up a pair of 92's that I've been listening to for a few weeks. I recapped them using NPE's with film bypass caps. They sound really terrific.

    I've found this is the best way to rebuild the xovers.

    Been contemplating re-doing xovers in one of my pair of 9s over this way as my 10Pi and 90s sound 'right'.

  7. Thanks so much for your thoughts and the videos. I had seen the video where you switched them back and forth. In that video the AR3 sounded better, more natural. Played the video on my laptop into a DAC and into my gear with AR90s. In these (new) videos the 3a sounded better; as you described.

    Is the earlier 3a with the alnico woofer a better choice, or doesn't matter ?

  8. 3 minutes ago, Mr. Weather said:

    For some of the replacements, I ended up leaving some of the old capacitor wire in place, bending that into a tiny hook with needle nose pliers, making the same hook on the new capacitor wire, and then hooking the two together.

    Yup, many times I'd leave the old wire/lead to make it easier to connect the new cap.

  9. For me the 6uF was the only difficult one to solder, especially the side that goes to the blue wire. I got a battery operated light in there, cut a length of solder approx 18" and used it like a welding rod. Then I got the (cold) soldering pen in place, turned on the juice and used my other hand for the solder. Crammed.

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