RoyC

KLH had many 2-way models, and variations within them. Earlier specimens used a clay-like material ("Mortite") as a driver gasket material, and later used foam gaskets. It's nothing to be concerned with. If you are so inclined, it would be interesting to see the crossovers...and if you do open them up, it would be prudent to replace the notoriously crappy KLH capacitors. On the other hand, if they sound good to your ear don't worry about the details. Roy

SUNNBOBB, I just sent you a message. Sign in and check your inbox. Roy

Thanks, Kent. It was full, and I just emptied it.

Gonna have to get me a pair of those KLH AR's. 🙃 I use an older Topping in the shop for testing speakers. Works very well... Roy

Hi Jessi, Coincidentally, I happen to be looking for a pair of these.

Crinoline works well too. It isn't unusual for original stuffing amounts to vary a bit. We conducted many measurements when putting together the AR-3a restoration guide, and found such differences to be insignificant. Roy

It appears to be poly batting over the original, later type of AR fiberglass. If so, it works very well. Roy

Great suggestion!

Hi Pete, If nothing has been applied after they were manufactured, AR surrounds really don't stiffen much on their own. I have, however, seen many woofer surrounds compromised by the application of inappropriate materials at a later time. Adding some of my stuff won't hurt anything, but there is no way of knowing how much it will improve the response. You could try reducing the mids' level control/pot settings and turning up the overall volume of your amp... Roy

If the cabinets are OK, it is do-able...but it will be expensive and tedious. AR-3 mids are scarce and going for lots of money these days...and then usually require refurbishment to produce adequate output. The tweeter domes can be re-suspended, but (but will likely remain black). The woofer surrounds will most likely have to be replaced with foam. Roy

Hmmm...I just took a closer look at the woofer, and see that there is something coating the surround. it looks pretty thick, and I would not at all be surprised if it is compromised as well. I also noticed no screws holding the woofer in place. Is it glued in? I hope you didn't pay much it. 🙄 Roy

The mid is not original. It also appears that the tweeter dome has been painted over, which will have compromised its output. The cabinet and woofer look good. Roy

Location? Whether repairing or selling, try to avoid shipping them if possible.

In my experience, room placement and room acoustics are the most overlooked aspects of speaker evaluation. It is why audio forum pronouncements of such things as "required" amplifier power, for example, should be taken with a grain of salt. Regarding the missing screw, I have found a number of AR screw issues over the years in untouched, all original specimens. In every case it was one loose or missing screw covered by putty. Dislodged T-nuts have been the usual cause of this apparent "repair", and it was certainly easier to maintain the integrity of the cabinet's seal with some putty than to remove the entire driver. Bear in mind that the grills were securely glued in place, and nobody at AR was expecting this conversation to be taking place nearly a half century later. Roy

I'm still rebuilding them, Jim. I also acquired a fair number of support rings for the typically broken and/or warped flanges.

As Kent mentioned, the tweeters can be rebuilt these days. If using the Q1R, first try .07mh coils. You can always unwind them a few turns if the tweeters seem to be too strong. Roy

Ha, well there goes that theory out the window. Only the early 6's have 3 terminals. The only reason I didn't mention the amp as a possibility was the statement that "...and hasn’t occurred before and doesn’t occur with other speakers". The AR-6 is not an unusual design and shouldn't behave differently than other speakers, new capacitors or not. Roy

Paul, Have you checked your cabinets' input connections, especially as it pertains to the terminals (2 and T) connected with the jumper wire? I seem to recall this being an issue for someone who inadvertently jumper-ed 1 and 2 together, then connected the amp leads to T and 1. The only other possibility is something amiss with your crossover and/or level control wiring...which means some photos will be required. Roy

No problem at all, Norman...I would be interested in your perspective. My opinion was not based on any personal experience with this speaker, just the viability of it as a sales success or it being an indicator of the "rebirth of AR speakers (not) being far behind". You would be the first person I know with any experience with this speaker.

Agreed, Gene...and who is the actual market for such products? It seems to me the "new" KLH 5 at $2500/pair is not going to appeal to older guys, nor attract younger people who mostly don't care about KLH, or any badge, for that matter. We had a similar discussion with Ken Kantor in relation to replacement drivers years ago. The cost of manufacturing original-design components in high enough quantities to give it any viability as a business model is generally cost prohibitive. In the case of complete speaker systems, I'm sure there are many more costs and concerns. "And off on a another tangent, if certain money concerns have found it profitable to recreate the "KLH" line of speakers, is the rebirth of AR speakers far behind?" Who says they are profitable, Frank? After some quick internet searching, I'm not seeing much being said about them. Imo, it appears to be a small company simply trying to capitalize on residual nostalgia for a very defunct brand's model. If you recall, there have been other failed attempts to bring back the KLH and AR labels in more recent decades. The only difference I see here is an attempt to revive a specific model. The people behind it may even be fans of old KLH speakers, but somehow I doubt it is translating into much of a profit. I'm thinking AR would more likely be similar to "Legacy" if in business today. https://legacyaudio.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQiA_bieBhDSARIsADU4zLenRY3zVIDRJLPlMIqinGJsuADKL2FcjilRZ_mu0tIjNu_9U-vxEuAaAvlQEALw_wcB Roy

The AR-11 tweeter was discussed many moons ago. The tan/yellow dome tweeter was the earliest version of the 2nd generation 3/4" AR tweeter, and does not have ferro-fluid in the vc gap. It tends to be popular among AR-11 aficionados today primarily because ferro-fluid can cause variable response issues due to age and hard use. The early non-ff AR-11 tweeter is presumed to have remained more consistent, and closer to original spec. Why AR chose the dome's color is anyone's guess, but being the first AR tweeter of its kind, it probably had more to do with being the first time AR used a cloth dome. It also clearly differentiated it from the comparatively crude 3/4" black paper dome that preceded it. As a result of its stiffer suspension, Fs of the Tonegen woofer was in the mid 20's compared to mid/upper-teens for the earlier versions of the woofer original to the 3a and LST. Some of the relatively effortless (lowest) bass response of the original design was therefore sacrificed. The Tonegen woofer, however, was extremely well built and consistent in quality, and is usually found to be in excellent shape today. Since the spider/suspension has had decades to soften, they usually perform very well in all AR models, albeit at the sacrifice of some of the original power handling capability. Roy

Previous sealant applications (including the original treatment) do not go away with time, and adding more can result in too much. If your woofer returns relatively slowly when gently pushed inward, it does not need more sealant. Appearance is not a good indicator of the need for additional sealant. Roy

a) There is no technical reason not to use them together. Bass response should be nearly the same, but there will likely be some differences in the higher frequencies. b) The only advice I can provide is to listen to them separately and use the level controls (assuming they are operating properly) on the rear of the cabinets to match them to your ear as closely as possible. The balance control and tone controls on your amp/receiver may be of use as well. Roy

Page 15 of the "Restoring The AR-3a" document has diagrams.

There is no need to be concerned about the vent holes.