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Upgraded AR-2a to 2ax Resto


Eddy Currents

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20 hours ago, ra.ra said:

Re: cabinets, sure, you can build your own, but it would probably serve you well to stick close to the original dimensions. With high quality cabinet construction, audio performance should not be compromised - - your drivers appear to be in excellent condition, but you'll probably want to assemble crossovers from scratch. On the other hand, finding a decent pair of pre-owned 2ax cabinets (with grilles, badges?) would go a long way to moving your project along in short order.

Bordious, if you do ever do run across some AR2ax cabinets, you want to make sure they are the older style with the 11 1/4 in. woofer cutouts. The newer versions used a smaller woofer frame (same size cone) with a 10 1/2 in. cutout. Both versions used the same size 4 1/2 in tweeter flange, just different drivers.  

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17 hours ago, Bordious said:

Thanks for all the help and info. I'll try and break out the other speaker, I've kinda been lagging on it because the first one took a while just to disassemble while making sure I don't ruin the insides. 

Looking forward to seeing these mongrels, you should start a new thread for this though.

12 hours ago, larrybody said:

Bordious, if you do ever do run across some AR2ax cabinets, you want to make sure they are the older style with the 11 1/4 in. woofer cutouts. The newer versions used a smaller woofer frame (same size cone) with a 10 1/2 in. cutout. Both versions used the same size 4 1/2 in tweeter flange, just different drivers.  

good call Larry

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7 minutes ago, stupidhead said:

Looking forward to seeing these mongrels, you should start a new thread for this though.

Agreed.

Welcome Clint. A new thread will cut down on the confusion between your project and Eddy's. Do your speakers work and sound OK? New cabs would be nice but as ra.ra. mentioned make sure the internal volume (and the amount of fiberglass stuffing) is the same as the original.

Not sure what's going on with that crossover but an original crossover would be appropriate too. You may be able to re-use the inductors if one is 1.13mH.

Kent

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  • 4 weeks later...

So, EddyC, is it correct to assume that you are intending to convert your current 2ax variant back to an authentic AR-2a by replacing the plywood panel midrange driver with your new dual cone mid drivers? Hmmm, reason being?......for authenticity or improved performance? 

Certainly this can be done, but just a couple observations about your new dual mids from Brooklyn. Hard to tell from the pic, but it looks like the pair on the left have some sort of mystery goop covering a good portion of the pleated surround suspension - - - are those cones able to move in and out appreciably? And the pair on the right is missing all of the screws connecting the driver baskets to the black plastic insert. Also, the black inserts shown have a single screw hole centered at top and bottom while your plywood inserts have two off-center holes at top and bottom, so you may have to remove and relocate some T-nut fasteners to ensure proper installation of these dual mid inserts.

Regarding the caps shown, surely those are all original, and both the 2a and 2ax used one 4uF and one 6uF in each cabinet. I've never seen that large 4uF Sprague can before and it might very well be adequate for continued use - - the only way to know is to disconnect it from circuit and measure it for confirmation. From your pics, it is difficult to understand the cap arrangement with the green wires - - it almost looks like you might have one Astron cap and one Industrial Condenser cap (both oil caps) paralleled to make up the 6uF cap value, but it's just hard to see. Possibly even more curious, though: the coil should be only in the woofer circuit, so why is it connected to the green-wire cap? 

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