Speaker sealing gasket

[xmas111]

I decided since I have one of the woofers out of LST I'm going to replace the white foam gasket. Heard it's a good idea to replace it each time the speaker is removed, it's meant to be crushed once.

I've heard the Speaker Gasket material sold by Parts Express http://www.parts-exp...tnumber=260-542 is pretty good stuff to use.

Not that am a cheap bastard but I hate having to spend as much on shipping as the product itself.

Went up to home Depot this morning and stumbled across this stuff, Insulation Tape for pipes. http://www.homedepot...0&storeId=10051

Looks just like the stuff Parts Express sells. They're both 1/8" thick.

I'm going to replace the woofer gasket in the other speaker and the gasket in both speakers that go around the crossover hatch in the back speakers.

Here's a pic I took of the Home Depot Insulation Tape compared to the Parts Express Gasket material. They look the same to me.

Hope this might help you guys save a couple of bucks too.

John

[ADVENTAGIOUS]

You can try plumbers putty and roll it out or this stuff. I have used this material and it works just fine........remove 2 strips together and apply.

http://www.homedepot...ing-cord/941522

It is almost identical to the sealant that I removed from my Large Advents and AR3a's

[RoyC]

I like the 1/8" gasket material as well, but only for woofers. Foam gaskets for smaller drivers, like tweeters, can be made from foam sheets found in crafts stores.

http://www.michaels....mworld&start=38

As for putty, "Duct Seal" found in the electrical department of stores like Home Depot and Lowes is ideal for all drivers, and very similar to the black putty sealing material sold by Parts Express. It costs less than $3 for a one pound brick. This is the same stuff sold as "AR putty" on Ebay at a higher price...Of course it isn't AR putty, but is as effective.

http://www.lowes.com...Id=10151&rpp=24

Roy

[ra.ra]

I can understand wanting to use a "dry" seal (compressible foam gasket) in place of a "wet" seal (caulk or putty) for issues of tidiness or to facilitate easier future access. However, even with a 12" diameter woofer, it's not apparent to me how well a flat foam tape (1/8" x 1/2"), which is generally intended for more linear applications, will suitably conform to a circular application where a continuous tight seal is paramount. Perhaps this roll foam can be persuaded to fit snugly, but I can only imagine the inner diameter crimping up as it gets applied to the circular baffle board recess.

Generally, I support the idea of le$$ expen$ive $olutions from the hardware store in lieu of overpriced specialty suppliers, but without having played with the foam tape, it's difficult to predict how it will conform. As you already know, you just want to ensure that the woofer mounting screws pull tight into the T-nuts so that a good continuous air seal is guaranteed.

Actually, because I already know that your LST's have the rear access panel, I'd say you really shouldn't need future access to the x-o. However, also knowing that your woofer recently got cooked, I fully understand your hesitation to seal it in with some sticky goop.

[RoyC]

I can understand wanting to use a "dry" seal (compressible foam gasket) in place of a "wet" seal (caulk or putty) for issues of tidiness or to facilitate easier future access. However, even with a 12" diameter woofer, it's not apparent to me how well a flat foam tape (1/8" x 1/2"), which is generally intended for more linear applications, will suitably conform to a circular application where a continuous tight seal is paramount. Perhaps this roll foam can be persuaded to fit snugly, but I can only imagine the inner diameter crimping up as it gets applied to the circular baffle board recess.

Generally, I support the idea of le$$ expen$ive $olutions from the hardware store in lieu of overpriced specialty suppliers, but without having played with the foam tape, it's difficult to predict how it will conform. As you already know, you just want to ensure that the woofer mounting screws pull tight into the T-nuts so that a good continuous air seal is guaranteed.

Actually, because I already know that your LST's have the rear access panel, I'd say you really shouldn't need future access to the x-o. However, also knowing that your woofer recently got cooked, I fully understand your hesitation to seal it in with some sticky goop.

AR used foam gaskets from the early 70's on, and it works fine. I doubt there are many, if any, LST's with putty gaskets under the drivers.

The foam tends to expand into voids if they are not too large. Early AR cabinets having chipped plywood surfaces benefit the most from the use of putty.

Roy

[ligs]

I have been using 1/8" thick white high density polyethylene crosslinked foam sheet for speaker and cabinet gaskets. It is easily cut into the shapes you want and reusable. The only thing wrong is it is quite expensive.

http://www.gogenlab.com/products/clean-sheets-bench-slash-drawer-liner-xlpe

[ra.ra]

All good responses, except for that word expen$ive mentioned by ligs. Nobody ever likes that caveat. At the time RoyC was posting at 12:44, I must've still been typing my earlier comments.

I am familiar with AR's switch from putty to foam during this time period - - - I have one pair of 4x's with putty (s/n FX316xxx) and another pair with foam (s/n 383xxx). My previous comments were mainly directed toward the tension between the geometry of the product (foam roll = linear) and the geometry of the receiving object (baffle board recess = circular). As any good builder will state, you need the right tool for the job.

I strongly agree that compressible foam works well as long as it fits the dimensional requirements of the situation. Sounds like maybe Roy has had good experience with the linear foam tape on woofers (only), but I really like the idea of cutting your own concentric circular rings with the craft store foam sheet (tools required: Sharpie and scissors). The sheet foam material is pretty much guaranteed to lay flat, whereas I still feel the roll foam may end up with buckling and possibly not ensure as much of a uniform compressive gasket.

[RoyC]

I I still feel the roll foam may end up with buckling and possibly not ensure as much of a uniform compressive gasket.

ra.ra

I was concerned about that possibility as well until I tried it. It is very forgiving material, and surprisingly easy to implement. Applying it to the woofer flange is easy, and it remains flat due to a very sticky adhesive backing. I particulary like it for cabinets I am experimenting with or using for woofer measurements, as it can often withstand repeated removal of the woofer without losing effectiveness. I have never had an air leak problem I could attribute to the 1/8" gasket tape in a restoration. On the other hand, the craft foam is a bit thin, not as reliable on rough surfaces, and not as sturdy as the 1/8" foam...but it is great for thin or plastic flanges of tweeters and mids.

The putty which is supposed to be the most AR-like is a 3M automotive weather stripping putty. It was discussed in this forum a number of years ago. I've never tried it.

Roy

[ligs]

All good responses, except for that word expen$ive mentioned by ligs. Nobody ever likes that caveat. At the time RoyC was posting at 12:44, I must've still been typing my earlier comments.

I am familiar with AR's switch from putty to foam during this time period - - - I have one pair of 4x's with putty (s/n FX316xxx) and another pair with foam (s/n 383xxx). My previous comments were mainly directed toward the tension between the geometry of the product (foam roll = linear) and the geometry of the receiving object (baffle board recess = circular). As any good builder will state, you need the right tool for the job.

I strongly agree that compressible foam works well as long as it fits the dimensional requirements of the situation. Sounds like maybe Roy has had good experience with the linear foam tape on woofers (only), but I really like the idea of cutting your own concentric circular rings with the craft store foam sheet (tools required: Sharpie and scissors). The sheet foam material is pretty much guaranteed to lay flat, whereas I still feel the roll foam may end up with buckling and possibly not ensure as much of a uniform compressive gasket.

The reason for the high cost of high density PE crosslinked foam sheet is it comes with a 50 ft roll. On per square foot base it is less than $3.00. In theory you make make a 12-inch, a 10-inch,a 6-inch foam rings all from one square foot sheet.

[Transmaster]

I have a better alternative to foam gaskets; Cork rubber Gasket material. I have used this for speaker gaskets since the late 1960's it is cheap easy to work with and lasts a long time, It comes is a number of thicknesses and different cork to rubber ratio's. You can purchase this stuff at any automotive parts store or online at places like Jegs, or Summit Racing. Use your speaker to trace out the outside diameter, a pencil compass to mark the inside. Depending on the thickness you decide to use the thinner gasket sheets can be cut out with a pair of scissors, and the thinker being cut out with a wood chisel.. You can fabricate a punch to cut the holes for the screws, I use a sharpened 1/4 drive deep well socket a drive extension and a small mallet and you are good to go., such punches can also be purchased. You will find all kinds of uses for the remaining material, With floor standing speakers use it to protect both the hard wood floor and the speaker base, shelf liner for your equipment rack, etc.