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Transmaster

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About Transmaster

  • Rank
    Member
  • Birthday 05/13/1952

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  • Gender
    Male
  • Location
    Cheyenne, Wyomimg
  • Interests
    Life long musician, Irish Terriers, Ham Radio Operator, vintage vacuum tube equipment.

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  1. This brings back memories. https://www.leagle.com/decision/19811757508fsupp124911545
  2. That is a problem you will have with the Sansui speaker in their day they were not considered to be top line speakers. We considered them too boomy. So repair pairs are going to be a problem. You need to decide if they are worth repairing. I just checked there are a pile of Sansui's available on eBay.
  3. You need to replace the surrounds. Simply Speakers is were you need to check. This were I go for such stuff. https://www.simplyspeakers.com/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwsYb0BRCOARIsAHbLPhH_0bNW6C_iUojduh_B2iGje9J0nSe7vHVRVZtGOBQNC-TdngPdHMYaAs0HEALw_wcB
  4. What I have found in my circa 1970 Wharfdale Achromatic "E" series Speakers is to preserve and improve their "English" sound that a good NPE does the trick. The originals were a Hong Kong made Minerva NPE's They had atrocious ESR's. Replaced them with Mundorf E-Cap's. They settled in, in about an hour very pleased with the result. The W-45's, my favorites are wonderful. Watching one if the PS Audio vodcasts the presenter was talking about by-pass capacitors. I don't buy into voodoo audio but I decided way not. The rule seems to be a capacity with in the tolerance of the main cap's So I added 0
  5. It is funny how things have changed for me on this subject over the years. The first set of crossovers I rebuilt Polk Monitor 10B’s I spent a lot of money on Sonicaps. A crapola Onkyo amp blew all of that up. Now I have all of the instruments to measure everything. I rebuilt the 10B’s with Mundorf M-Cap’s less money better sound. Next I rebuilt my Wharfedales with Mundorf E-Cap NPE’s great sound even less money. The M-Cap’s did seem to have a burn it time, the E-Cap’s zero time good from the get go. I spent just over $100 bucks on the capacitors for the 10B’s. Less the $20 dollars for the E
  6. It is funny how things have changed for me on this subject over the years. The first set of crossovers I rebuilt Polk Monitor 10B’s I spent a lot of money on Sonicaps. A crapola Onkyo amp blew all of that up. Now I have all of the instruments to measure everything. I rebuilt the 10B’s with Mundorf M-Cap’s less money better sound. Next I rebuilt my Wharfedales with Mundorf E-Cap NPE’s great sound even less money. The M-Cap’s did seem to have a burn it time, the E-Cap’s zero time good from the get go. I spent just over $100 bucks on the capacitors for the 10B’s. Less the $20 dollars for the E
  7. I know this is at best a dead horse topic but I need advice on the maintenance of the cloth surrounds on a pair of Wharfedale W-45’s. They have 10” Wharfedale brand woofers. These are impressive speakers with heavy cast aluminum frames. They were both manufactured in October, of 1970, they are in very good condition. The cloth surrounds are in very good shape, and I want to keep them this way. These are the first speakers I have owned with cloth surrounds. Is there anything I should do to preserve them. Posting this question here as these are rare speakers in Wharfedale’s Achromatic line up i
  8. I already have a pair of W35’s which I absolutely love. The W25, W35, and W45 were assembled here in the States. The cases were made Stateside with the speakers, and assembled crossovers coming from the UK. All three use the same Tweeter, the E35, and 45 the same mid-range, the W25, and 35 the same 8” woofer, the W45 a 10” woofer. Purchasing them from the original owner who purchased them new in 1970. For recapping the crossovers on these Wharfedales I really like the Mundorf E-Cap great non-polarized electrolytic’s. Cheap, and you are not trying to fit a 16 oz beer can sized cap’ in a space
  9. You should be able to repair that cable. The covering should pop off with gentle prying with the cover off will give you access to the solder tabs on the inside. Four conductor audio cable is easy to come up with.
  10. Just refurbished my W-35’s with Mundorf E-Cap Plains. Wonderful sound. I decided to do an A/B comparison between the W-35’s, and a pair of modern Polk Audio RTi A3’s. The A3 are one of the best speaker deals on the market right now at $239.95 a pair. The W35’s are powered by a Lepai LP-2020 TI class “D” amp 20 Watts x2. The A3’s were on my Yamaha RX-A770 in a 2.1 configuration 95 Watts X 2, and a Klipsch subwoofer with about 500 watts. The W35’s completely blew the A3’s out of the water. I could not believe a 48 year old set of speakers could beat out a modern book shelf speaker of about
  11. I went perhaps a little overboard on a set of Polk Monitor 10B’s crossovers . I purchased a set of Unmodified 10B crossovers to rebuild and swap out the set I had modified a number of years ago with Sonic Cap Gen 1’s and Axon True Caps. There are issues one speaker is out of phase I had to reverse the leads, and the other does not seen to play as loud as the other. My equipment and experience are much better now. These replacements have been rebuilt as the Monitor 10A. The difference is the “A” model did not have the notorious Polyphaser resistance fuse. I used Mundorf M-Cap Aluminum flim ca
  12. A number of years ago I rebuilt the crossovers on a pair of Wharfdale W35 speakers. Then I used Dayton flim cap’s. In the meantime one of these W35’s got Dc’ed by a failing Onkyo Amp. It took me 5 years to collect the parts to fix it. I landed a pair of crossovers that had the originsl circa 1970 Minerva NPE’s from Hong Kong. I tested them on my capacitor tester and except for being out of spec μF wise they were not in bad shape. Their ESR’s, and Vloss were OK. Knowing vastly more about this sort of thing I replaced them with Mundorf E-Cap plain NPE’s. Everything I liked about the sound o
  13. One of the BIC 8950’s in my Wharfdale W35 parts stash has has a problem I have never seen before. Before I attempt a repair I want touch bases here to see if anyone has run into a similar situation. Note the photos. One of the wires going from the connection taps on the spider has broken away from it’s connection on the cone. The repair would be straight forward except for the doping on the front side of the cone. Is there a solvent that can remove it without damaging the cone? The wire its self is really crappy it is a thread covered mess that would be damn hard to solder. Can anyone point me
  14. Yes you can here the difference with modern speakers. But first you have to listen to examples of such instruments. The difference is very subtle and impossiable to describe. A good example would be James Galway. Galway really pioneered the use of the Golden Flute. He plays both silver and gold flutes so you can listen to him playing both instruments. . Generally the Gold flute has a more rounded sound then a silver flute. Sliver flute have a subtly sharper sound. The small number of Platnium flutes in the world have an even more rounded sound then the Golden one. Another area to compare is
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