A new AR-3a owner here

[davidro]

Thanks Kent

Ok apparently I need to buy $50 or more for overseas shipping....what else do I need?

Just added a wire stripper + 2 pair spade terminals (for speaker cables). The shipping to Australia is $52.01. Yikes. Wonder why they have to use Priority Mail International which is typically a lot more expensive. Hmm.

[JKent]

Speaker wire?

http://www.parts-exp...109-063&scqty=1

or check their "sale" flyer. You may see something cool you can't live without:

http://www.parts-exp...lyer/index.html

Oh--just saw your addendum. Yes--spade terminals and wire strippers are good.

In my experience with international shipping, Priority Mail International "usually" is the only way to go. UPS and FedEx are way too expensive. Priority is basically the cheapest US Postal Service service. You can check it out at USPS.com http://ircalc.usps.gov/Default.aspx?country=10013

BUT--depends on the weight. PE may be using a "flat rate box." You might try emailing them and asking if they could weigh the package and send it by 1st Class International if it's light enough. For example, a 5 pound box sent to Australia via Priority would cost $48.15 USD while the Priority flat rate box (medium) is 45.50. If it is 4 pounds or less they could send First Class International for about $25 USD plus whatever their handling charge is.

Kent

[davidro]

Thanks Kent. I'll do that. Re spade terminals what size would you recommend for the AR-3a? How about this?

[JKent]

Thanks Kent. I'll do that. Re spade terminals what size would you recommend for the AR-3a? How about this?

Depends on the wire size. #10 is REALLY heavy wire. #18 is adequate for most normal length runs. This would work for 16 to 14 ga

http://www.parts-exp...tnumber=095-236 or this for 22 to 18 ga http://www.parts-exp...tnumber=095-232

Ring terminals work well on AR terminals too.

Maybe check Madisound. Here is an order that would work. Eliminate EITHER the Carli 6uF or the Solen 6uF. I don't see gasketing caulk, so if you email them to inquire about international shipping maybe ask about the caulk too. Or in a pinch send me a PM and maybe I can just mail you some.

Kent

[davidro]

Sorry to be a hassle but I note that order includes x2 l-pads. Do I not need x4 l-pads?

[JKent]

Sorry to be a hassle but I note that order includes x2 l-pads. Do I not need x4 l-pads?

Sorry. 4 L-pads & 4 resistors but just 2 6uF caps

Kent

[davidro]

Thanks Kent. I'll go for Solen caps as they sound to be good quality. The shipping comes out to be lower - $30. That's not bad at all. I've emailed them and asked about the caulk. If the Parts Express tells me they can charge less for shipping I could go for their services as I wouldn't mind a wire stripper (I stuffed up wiring turntable leads because I didn't have that!) Cheers.

[michiganpat]

the foam tape you linked to would work to seal all the drivers.

your pics, the mids look the be an unfilled nylon (top broken one) and glass filled nylon (intact bottom one)...to keep a flat back on the broken one, if you have some tin snips, I wonder if you get a thin aluminum baking pan, and cut a ring out of it and glue that to the back of the mid to support the broken pieces and the repair material used (I'd probably use one of the various epoxy puttys to repair it)

also check out www.madisound.com or www.meniscusaudio.com for your supplies, they both use the USPS for shipping options, which may give a less expensive shipping option.

[davidro]

your pics, the mids look the be an unfilled nylon (top broken one) and glass filled nylon (intact bottom one)...to keep a flat back on the broken one, if you have some tin snips, I wonder if you get a thin aluminum baking pan, and cut a ring out of it and glue that to the back of the mid to support the broken pieces and the repair material used (I'd probably use one of the various epoxy puttys to repair it)

Thanks mate. What if I used the aluminium foil on a flat surface? And would you be able to show me specific examples of 'various epoxy putty'?

also check out www.madisound.com or www.meniscusaudio.com for your supplies, they both use the USPS for shipping options, which may give a less expensive shipping option.

Yes I'm making enquiries now. Thanks.

[michiganpat]

Thanks mate. What if I used the aluminium foil on a flat surface? And would you be able to show me specific examples of 'various epoxy putty'?

Yes I'm making enquiries now. Thanks.

dunno about foil, the reasoning I was thinking for the aluminum pan was because it is rigid....

here's some examples

http://www.amazon.com/Miniature-Accessories-Black-Milliput-Epoxy/dp/B002CSX7Z8/ref=tag_dpp_lp_edpp_ttl_in

http://www.amazon.com/Epoxy-Putty-Black-14oz-9908/dp/B004DF5MEC/ref=sr_1_21?ie=UTF8&qid=1314624089&sr=8-21

http://www.amazon.com/Henkel-431348-Loctite-2-Ounce-Epoxy/dp/B000BOB8P6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1314624048&sr=8-1

[davidro]

Report - I've ordered the caps and l-pads from Madisound. I anticipate I'll do the work perhaps next weekend if they arrive by next week. I am keep reading the Guide over and over again here. One Q - why is it recommended that I use a pp cap for the high when others can do with npe? Cheers.

[JKent]

One of the authors, such as Roy or John can give a more authoritative answer but I'd say mainly price. Film tweeter caps are small and cheap. Film woofer caps are big and expensive.

Kent

[RoyC]

One of the authors, such as Roy or John can give a more authoritative answer but I'd say mainly price. Film tweeter caps are small and cheap. Film woofer caps are big and expensive.

Kent

Hi Guys,

Film caps are generally of higher quality and more reliable than typical inexpensive electrolytic caps...and, as Kent points out, (much) more expensive. High frequency drivers are more fragile than the others, and a film cap in series with it is considered to be better protection, and being a lower value, not very costly. It also has lower esr, which in theory would provide a cleaner signal (but there are those who argue that the higher "esr" of electrolytic caps is needed to sound more like the original).

John O. tested many old and new capacitors for us with rather sophisticated equipment, and concluded that the original electrolytic AR caps, like the Spragues, when new, were of better quality than typical modern electrolytics, and that modern film caps are probably the best way to go (mostly for peace of mind) if cost is no object. The new electrolytic caps we tested varied from stated values to a much greater degree than film caps.

An approach taken by some builders of better modern speakers is to use film caps in series with drivers, especially higher frequency drivers, (ie the 6uf tweeter and 50uf mid caps in the AR-3a) and electrolytic caps for less critical, larger parallel values (ie the 150uf parallel woofer cap in the AR-3a).

Roy

[davidro]

Thanks guys I learn a lot here. Actually if I had a matching pair of 3a from the early era with Alnico magnet etc I might have considered all film caps but mine weren't really that. Plus I might need additional resistors with the film caps I understand. I'm more concerned with restoring the broken flanges. Cheers.

[davidro]

G'day, I'm playing some Wagner loud now and can see the woofer moving a bit. That's for both sides by the way. Not just the one with problematic driver flanges. Would that mean the seal is definitely compromised? Is it safe to not use the speakers until I can re-seal them?

[davidro]

Hmm now it looks as though the movement was due to the poor condition of the vinyl I was playing.

[RoyC]

G'day, I'm playing some Wagner loud now and can see the woofer moving a bit. That's for both sides by the way. Not just the one with problematic driver flanges. Would that mean the seal is definitely compromised? Is it safe to not use the speakers until I can re-seal them?

Nothing related to the sealing of your speakers can be determined by watching the woofers! Your speakers are quite usable as is. Just avoid excessive volume levels until you repair the broken faceplates.

Roy

[davidro]

Thanks Roy I'll do that.

[davidro]

The caps and l-pads arrived from Madisound! I think I can borrow an electric drill from the office for the weekend. Will I need drill bits and parts etc for the restoration job though?

[davidro]

Bummer

I've been to local parts store and they didn't have speaker sealant tapes they advertised on the web. No telling of when they will stock them in. I'll need to resort to duct seals etc. The question is, will any duct seal type thing do? I only see those 'squeeze-out' tube things made of silicone...

[davidro]

Ok I've just been to the parts store (Jaycar) of another area and bought the speaker sealing tapes (4m in total). I've also bought:

• a pack of Plasti-Bond for the speaker flanges.
  
• wire stripper.
  
• some loose wires
  

Frustratingly they don't have wire nuts! All they have is wire tap connector which looks like this. But could it be the same as this thing called 'cable joiner'? Weirdly I'm finding better tools and parts from an auto parts store than a Jaycar store.

And I'm not sure what cement contact might be. Can I just use super glue type things?

[davidro]

Yet another Q....

Suppose I successfully fixed the flanges. How do I drill holes into them for the screws? I've never used it. Any place where I can have some ideas?

[davidro]

G'day all, I've successfully restored one speaker today. Please check out my AK thread. I'm going to fix the other one with the broken flanges tomorrow. That's gonna be a challenge. Do you think I could just perhaps cover the broken bits with the Plasti-Bond or puttys? Opening the mid/high drivers will be a bit scary so I want to know if I can avoid doing that.