HELP! How to make a faceplate

[JKent]

I figured there must be some clever guys here who can figure this out.

I have a KLH Model Thirteen chassis--no cabinet. If I decide to restore the chassis, it will need a cabinet.

The box is walnut--no problem, but the front panel is the problem. It's painted 1/8" Masonite with painted black lettering.

I thought of using clear labels with black lettering but I think the labels will look a bit amateurish.

There is a machine that will laser etch materials but have no idea who might provide such a service.

I could even use metal, like copper, have it engraved then powder coated (probably expensive).

The logo is optional--I have a plate that "could" be glued on.

Any suggestions?

Kent

[zcon67]

You might talk to a printer for some suggestions.

PeteZ

[JKent]

Should have mentioned: I do have an intact 13 to copy (pictured in #1)

K

[speaker dave]

I think the ink-jet printer is your friend here. There are a number of transparency films or even photo papers with the right pearl or gloss characteristics to give any look you would want. I would take your intact unit and pull tha panel off and use a flat bed scanner at high res. You could then go into an imaging program or graphics program and touch up or even redraw over the scan until you have a clean graphic.

Print onto photo paper. Contact glue to front panel. Razor knife openings. etc.

David

[speaker dave]

Also...do a search for Inkjet decals. You can print onto materials that becomes a "waterslide" type decal. It would work if you were applying the graphic to a smooth and glossy panel. I'm thinking of doing this for a bicycle restoration.

David

[genek]

Should have mentioned: I do have an intact 13 to copy (pictured in #1)

If the plate isn't hard to remove, take it to one of those places that do laser engraved plaques and trophies. They can scan the original the same way they do peoples' photos. I've not seen anyone advertising that they can do blue lettering on gray, but you never know what may be available.

[JKent]

If the plate isn't hard to remove, take it to one of those places that do laser engraved plaques and trophies. They can scan the original the same way they do peoples' photos. I've not seen anyone advertising that they can do blue lettering on gray, but you never know what may be available.

Thanks Gene and Dave--some good suggestions.

The plate is virtually impossible to remove but mavbe it could be scanned while still installed. There's a 1/4" lip. We'll see.

The lettering is black, so that should make it simpler.

Thanks

Kent

[speaker dave]

Thanks Gene and Dave--some good suggestions.

The plate is virtually impossible to remove but mavbe it could be scanned while still installed. There's a 1/4" lip. We'll see.

The lettering is black, so that should make it simpler.

Thanks

Kent

If you can't get it to a scanner then a digital camera would be just as good. Use a longish lens from a reasonable distance. The camera must be perpendicular to the piece and well centered on it to prevent distortion. Illuminate with even soft light (say outside on a cloudy bright day) Shoot a ruler at the same time or note the center to center size between two switch posts. You will have to rescale the image to get it to print to an exact size. Play with the gray scale to get the background full white and the graphics black. I don't know if you are into photography but this is easy stuff for most camera buffs. (ask a friend for help).

David

[JKent]

If you can't get it to a scanner then a digital camera would be just as good. Use a longish lens from a reasonable distance. The camera must be perpendicular to the piece and well centered on it to prevent distortion. Illuminate with even soft light (say outside on a cloudy bright day) Shoot a ruler at the same time or note the center to center size between two switch posts. You will have to rescale the image to get it to print to an exact size. Play with the gray scale to get the background full white and the graphics black. I don't know if you are into photography but this is easy stuff for most camera buffs. (ask a friend for help).

David

That sounds perfect. I am "into" photography, although not an expert. But what you describe should work. Set up my DSLR on a tripod and get everything level and square. Only have a zoom lens, so I'll have to zoom to 42mm to avoid any fisheye distortion. Then fiddle with the image in Photoshop. Heck--it's a VERY basic design. I could probably even do it in Word.

I notice there are both inkjet and laser color-slide decals. Since this will be black on clear, laserjet may be the better choice.

I'll look for 1/8" almond melamine. If that's not available I'll just spray paint some 1/8" Masonite.

Sounds pretty simple and not expensive. I'll get some walnut from a friend and see if my bro-in-law will make the boxes (may as well do the speaker, too).

If all this works I'll post pictures (won't be soon tho--so many projects, so little time ).

Thanks!

Kent

[genek]

That sounds perfect. I am "into" photography, although not an expert. But what you describe should work. Set up my DSLR on a tripod and get everything level and square. Only have a zoom lens, so I'll have to zoom to 42mm to avoid any fisheye distortion. Then fiddle with the image in Photoshop. Heck--it's a VERY basic design. I could probably even do it in Word.

I notice there are both inkjet and laser color-slide decals. Since this will be black on clear, laserjet may be the better choice.

I'll look for 1/8" almond melamine. If that's not available I'll just spray paint some 1/8" Masonite.

Sounds pretty simple and not expensive. I'll get some walnut from a friend and see if my bro-in-law will make the boxes (may as well do the speaker, too).

Heck, just take a good, clear full-color photo, have it printed up glossy, laminate it to the new panel and make the cutouts. It's not as if you're trying to duplicate a brushed silver faceplate.