AR 40 refoamed & ready but how to hook up?

[Guest MixItUp]

My nice neighbors tossed out their gorgeous AR 40's in the trash and I was more than happy to give them a new home.

I just re-foamed them & restained the cabinets, looks good. Unfortunately, there is very little info about AR 40's out on the internet.

I am ready to hook these up to a brand spanking new Pioneer VSX-1019AH-K 7-Channel receiver but noticed the back

of these AR's have three separate pairs of terminal. One for tweeter, one for midrange and one for the woofer. I believe these are referred to as three way.

Which terminals should I use for connecting to a more modern, up to date receiver? All three? Only 1 or 2? Am utterly perplexed.

Sorry to be such a rookie but I love AR's and am thrilled to have these.

[genek]

My nice neighbors tossed out their gorgeous AR 40's in the trash and I was more than happy to give them a new home.

I just re-foamed them & restained the cabinets, looks good. Unfortunately, there is very little info about AR 40's out on the internet.

Which terminals should I use for connecting to a more modern, up to date receiver? All three? Only 1 or 2? Am utterly perplexed.

I'm assuming this is the Connoisseur series?

http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/library...series_pg3.html

I've never seen the back of one of these, so I don't know if you have the 1, 2, T arrangement that separates the woofer from the mid and tweeter, or the full-on biamplification arrangement.

Unless someone else knows this series better, it would probably be best if you could upload a photo of the terminal panel so we can be sure.

[Guest MixItUp]

I'm assuming this is the Connoisseur series?

http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/library...series_pg3.html

I've never seen the back of one of these, so I don't know if you have the 1, 2, T arrangement that separates the woofer from the mid and tweeter, or the full-on biamplification arrangement.

Unless someone else knows this series better, it would probably be best if you could upload a photo of the terminal panel so we can be sure.

Genek,

Thanks for your post. Yes, they are the Connoisseur 40 series. I took a photo so you can see the terminals as the above configuration arrangements are Greek to me.

So very much appreciate any help, really.

Many thanks.....

[genek]

Yes, they are the Connoisseur 40 series. I took a photo so you can see the terminals as the above configuration arrangements are Greek to me.

These are the biamp (actually, triamp) terminals. Removing the straps as has been done here enables you to power each driver in the speaker with a separate amplifier (which you could do with a 7.1 channel receiver, but to set that up you'd need one of our more expert members, because it's over my head). To use one amplifier channel per speaker, replace the straps so that all three red terminals are connected and all three black terminals are connected, then connect the speaker wire the way you would to a speaker with only two terminals.

One other thing you need to do is check the owners manual for your receiver and follow the instructions to set it up to use 6 ohm speakers, which is what the specs in the library say the 40t is.

More pictures of the speakers from the front and the rear would be great, as the site doesn't have that much to show on these.

[Guest MixItUp]

These are the biamp (actually, triamp) terminals. Removing the straps as has been done here enables you to power each driver in the speaker with a separate amplifier (which you could do with a 7.1 channel receiver, but to set that up you'd need one of our more expert members, because it's over my head). To use one amplifier channel per speaker, replace the straps so that all three red terminals are connected and all three black terminals are connected, then connect the speaker wire the way you would to a speaker with only two terminals.

One other thing you need to do is check the owners manual for your receiver and follow the instructions to set it up to use 6 ohm speakers, which is what the specs in the library say the 40t is.

More pictures of the speakers from the front and the rear would be great, as the site doesn't have that much to show on these.

Thanks for the tip! Yes, I did remove the straps for the photo of the speakers as one could not initially see the posting of the three terminals...tweeter, midrange, woofer.

It's a bit dark here now so I will take photos of the speakers tomorrow and post them for your forum. Sadly I do not have the manual and can't find anything online but VERY much appreciate the tip on the 6 ohm connection when hooking up to the receiver. That manual I have as it's brand new.

So it's my understanding with the strap connected to the three terminals (back of speakers) that I could probably hook a single split speaker wire to any of the AR's terminals? The plate is causing all three to be conductive, correct? That would be relatively simple.....just want to be sure I get the best sound.

Thanks again!

Mixitup

[genek]

So it's my understanding with the strap on over the three terminals, back of speaker that I could probably hook to any one split speaker wire from any terminal pair on the back of the AR's to the receiver? The plate is causing all three to be conductive, correct?

Right. With the straps in place it doesn't make any difference which red or black terminal you use because the strapped terminals essentially become a single one.

[JKent]

Sadly I do not have the manual and can't find anything online but VERY much appreciate the tip on the 6 ohm connection when hooking up to the receiver. That manual I have as it's brand new.

Gene meant check the RECEIVER manual to set it up for 6 ohm speakers. You can find those instructions on page 36 here:

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFi...uctions0128.pdf

You can't be much of a rookie if you refoamed your woofers! PLEASE post pics of the refinished cabinets. Now.... did you replace the capacitors?

Good luck with the great find, and welcome to CSP!

Kent

[Guest MixItUp]

Gene meant check the RECEIVER manual to set it up for 6 ohm speakers. You can find those instructions on page 36 here:

http://www.pioneerelectronics.com/StaticFi...uctions0128.pdf

You can't be much of a rookie if you refoamed your woofers! PLEASE post pics of the refinished cabinets. Now.... did you replace the capacitors?

Good luck with the great find, and welcome to CSP!

Kent

OK Gentlemen.....woke up sipping Italian coffee and grabbed my camera. Here are the photos of my successful dumpster dive. I do think I will give the cabinets another light coat of stain, they could use them especially on top. Again, if any one has any info on these pups, would be happy to learn more about them. I do know they weight 43 lbs each. I listened to one speaker with corroding foam for just a minute and fell in love so I can't wait until I have them properly hooked up.

Cheers! Ingrid

p.s. I understood Gene regarding the receiver manual, thanks. I just wanted him to know I didn't have any manual w/the AR's. And no, I didn't replace the capacitors? Should I have? My neighbor who tossed these out is a VIP (if you get my drift) so I know they have been well cared for.....not that this has anything to do with capacitor health.

[JKent]

Beauties!

I'm not familiar with these particular speakers and don't know their age, but the non polar electrolytic capacitors used in speaker crossovers typically last 15-20 years, although many last longer (but their values change). Most of us here, when we tear into a speaker cabinet, replace those old NPEs with better film caps such as Daytons from Parts Express, Solens from Madisound, or the economical Carli mylar caps from Madisound. SOME members hear differences among caps and go for high end (high price) exotic caps, but that's another subject entirely

Happy listening!

Kent

[Steve F]

My nice neighbors tossed out their gorgeous AR 40's in the trash and I was more than happy to give them a new home.

I just re-foamed them & restained the cabinets, looks good. Unfortunately, there is very little info about AR 40's out on the internet.

I am ready to hook these up to a brand spanking new Pioneer VSX-1019AH-K 7-Channel receiver but noticed the back

of these AR's have three separate pairs of terminal. One for tweeter, one for midrange and one for the woofer. I believe these are referred to as three way.

Which terminals should I use for connecting to a more modern, up to date receiver? All three? Only 1 or 2? Am utterly perplexed.

Sorry to be such a rookie but I love AR's and am thrilled to have these.

The 40 is a great speaker. High Fidelity magazine summed it up perfectly in their review by saying, "We are very impressed."

I had 50's, the 12" bigger brother to the 10" 40. Same mid, same tweeter, same triple-input terminals. What's missing from your 40's are the 'connection straps' that connect all the "-" terminals together and all the "+" terminals together.

If you want to hook these speakers up in a normal fashion to a regular receiver or amplifier, simply use some speaker wire to strap the three like terminals together, as I described above.

Then connect the speaker wires from your amp/receiver to the - and + sides of the speaker, like normal. All three - terminals on the 40 are the same, since they are now strapped together. Same with the + terminals--they're all the same, and you can use any of them.

Enjoy your speakers.

Steve F.

[genek]

The Connoisseur series was 1985-88. They were developed during Ken Kantor's time at AR, and hopefully he will have some memories of them he can share.

The brochure in the library compares the 50t to the 3/3a models. I think the 40t would be roughly the equivalent of a 2ax or 5.

[Guest MixItUp]

The Connoisseur series was 1985-88. They were developed during Ken Kantor's time at AR, and hopefully he will have some memories of them he can share.

The brochure in the library compares the 50t to the 3/3a models. I think the 40t would be roughly the equivalent of a 2ax or 5.

Thanks Gene, Steve and Kent!

Steve,

I do have the connectors for the back terminals. I took them off to take a photo for my initial post....but I have them! So I can just connect to any terminal with the straps in place, right?

You three have given me some great info. I suspected they were good speakers and sought some reviews but came up

short. Thanks Steve for the verbal HF review. That is nice that you had access to it.

Gene, I will go check the forum library on the 2ax if I can find my way there and back. (will leave bread crumbs) Would LOVE any written info on these.

Kent, I fear I mucked up not replacing the capacitors! Did I? I don't really know what they are but if you think they really need replacing, can this be done still even after I have refoamed? Is it pretty important? Taking the speakers out is easy, 4 screws.

Wish I could have you all over for a single malt scotch and chat about speakers. What a great group to get advice from!

As for age, I came across some files regarding dates. For all I know, the original text may have originated here.

The file named 1986-1989 is where my AR 40 speakers are listed, second one down and the second jpg from the left.

[Steve F]

Thanks Gene, Steve and Kent!

Steve,

I do have the connectors for the back terminals. I took them off to take a photo for my initial post....but I have them! So I can just connect to any terminal with the straps in place, right?

Wish I could have you all over for a single malt scotch and chat about speakers. What a great group to get advice from!

Yes, put the straps back in place, hook up your speaker wire to any terminal and you're all set. The 50 and 40 were extremely nice speakers and you'll love them.

Single malt? Be right there.......

Steve F.

[Guest MixItUp]

Yes, put the straps back in place, hook up your speaker wire to any terminal and you're all set. The 50 and 40 were extremely nice speakers and you'll love them.

Single malt? Be right there.......

Steve F.

Macallan single malt- 18 year or Balvenie 20 year

[genek]

I fear I mucked up not replacing the capacitors! Did I?

Ken Kantor has expressed the opinion that caps in the post-classic and newer ARs (which your speakers are) are mostly still good, so it's a case-by-case thing. When you hook up the speakers, check to see if all the drivers are producing sound, and if they are do some critical music listening to see if you think the sound is deficient in any area, especially high frequencies. If everything sounds right, the biggest risk if the caps aren't up to original spec is that they may not be rolling off lower frequencies correctly, making the tweeters susceptible to damage from cranking the volume way up, so if you're in the habit of listening loud you might want to consider a precautionary recap even if the sound doesn't seem to call for one.

I have 40+ year old classic models that all have their original caps. Everything still sounds fine to my ear and I haven't blown a tweeter yet.

[JKent]

Macallan single malt- 18 year

WOW! Worth a drive to DC! I have a bottle that I save for myself and one friend who appreciates it.

If the speakers sound good, enjoy. "Some day" you should probably replace the caps. As I said, I'm not familiar with that particular speaker but I suspect there is a printed circuit board inside with some electrolytics caps attached. If you feel ambitious you could open one up, pull the woofer and stuffing, put a camera in the hole and snap a couple of pics so we know what the crossover looks like. With luck, the caps will have their values visible on the outside. There's lots of discussion of recapping in these pages. Here is one example, with pictures of the KLH 17 crossover:

http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/IP.Boar...?showtopic=5005

[Guest MixItUp]

Beauties!

I'm not familiar with these particular speakers and don't know their age, but the non polar electrolytic capacitors used in speaker crossovers typically last 15-20 years, although many last longer (but their values change). Most of us here, when we tear into a speaker cabinet, replace those old NPEs with better film caps such as Daytons from Parts Express, Solens from Madisound, or the economical Carli mylar caps from Madisound. SOME members hear differences among caps and go for high end (high price) exotic caps, but that's another subject entirely

Happy listening!

Kent

Kent....I just went on Parts Express and the capacitor install might be a bit above my head. I suspect they were deeper inside the cabinet under that nice fluffy white poly stuffing. I didn't dive that deep.

Though my dad was an electrician, I have images of me with singed eyebrows! Am guessing a soldering iron is in order. Yikes.

[Guest MixItUp]

WOW! Worth a drive to DC! I have a bottle that I save for myself and one friend who appreciates it.

If the speakers sound good, enjoy. "Some day" you should probably replace the caps. As I said, I'm not familiar with that particular speaker but I suspect there is a printed circuit board inside with some electrolytics caps attached. If you feel ambitious you could open one up, pull the woofer and stuffing, put a camera in the hole and snap a couple of pics so we know what the crossover looks like. With luck, the caps will have their values visible on the outside. There's lots of discussion of recapping in these pages. Here is one example, with pictures of the KLH 17 crossover:

http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/IP.Boar...?showtopic=5005

Kent....I think this is my plan for now. I wish to hook them up to the receiver and give them a listen. These new receivers now are not plug and play and it usually takes the manual and some time to set up.

If they sound decent, I might leave them be as I fear I might be venturing into territory that I am unfamiliar with, especially if they sound good. I love your advice and will remember it. I have a pair of AR TSW410's and on occasion, I hear a hissing sound. It might be that they need their capacitors changed out....uncertain.

For curiosity sake, why does these AR 40's require a 6 ohm hookup? I will do this upon the Gene's advice but am curious why. I know the Pioneer has 8 ohm as default so I am so happy to be guided correctly. Good to know!!!!

[JKent]

For curiosity sake, why does these AR 40's require a 6 ohm hookup? I will do this upon the Gene's advice but am curious why. I know the Pioneer has 8 ohm as default so I am so happy to be guided correctly. Good to know!!!!

According to the brochure in the Library, these are 6 ohm speakers:

http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/library...#previous-photo

Yes--the caps are deeper in the cabinet, under the fluffy stuff. Most likely the crossover is mounted to the plate that has those 3 pair of binding posts. I'm guessing the white stuffing is polyester--much nicer to work with than that itchy fiberglass. If you are so inclined you can pull it out through the woofer hole to have a peek at the crossover.

[Guest MixItUp]

According to the brochure in the Library, these are 6 ohm speakers:

http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/library...#previous-photo

Yes--the caps are deeper in the cabinet, under the fluffy stuff. Most likely the crossover is mounted to the plate that has those 3 pair of binding posts. I'm guessing the white stuffing is polyester--much nicer to work with than that itchy fiberglass. If you are so inclined you can pull it out through the woofer hole to have a peek at the crossover.

Hooked them up quick and they sound great! I did have to crank the receiver up to 12 db plus so I am waiting until I get them recalibrated so nothing goes wrong. The receiver did get a bit warm (yikes!) They are on 6 ohm, so thanks for that valuable tip.

Forgot to mention that speaker stands came with these guys. Also out on the curb so I probably should use them for better sound. When my neighbors come over some day and see them in my living room, I don't know what I will say!

[genek]

Hooked them up quick and they sound great! I did have to crank the receiver up to 12 db plus so I am waiting until I get them recalibrated so nothing goes wrong. The receiver did get a bit warm (yikes!) They are on 6 ohm, so thanks for that valuable tip.

Do you have this receiver connected just with these two speakers for stereo, or are there other speakers in a multispeaker home theater setup?

HT receivers sometimes come with default settings that assume you have multiple satellites and a subwoofer, so make sure that the "speaker size" for the channels the speakers are connected to is set to "large" so the receiver isn't cutting off bass to the speakers, which might make it sound as if the volume isn't high enough, and if there are no other speakers connected set the listening mode to "stereo," which, depending on the model, may cut power to the other channels and improve the output of the front channels and reduce heat buildup. HT receivers often run warmer than stereo-only models no matter what settings you use, so be sure there is good ventilation for cooling.

I looked at the specs for the receiver model you posted, and it's rated at 90 watts per channel at 8 ohms. Depending on how the protection works you may get more or less than that at 6 ohms, but it should still be enough for a moderate-size listening room and volume levels.

[Steve F]

Do you have this receiver connected just with these two speakers for stereo, or are there other speakers in a multispeaker home theater setup?

HT receivers sometimes come with default settings that assume you have multiple satellites and a subwoofer, so make sure that the "speaker size" for the channels the speakers are connected to is set to "large" so the receiver isn't cutting off bass to the speakers, which might make it sound as if the volume isn't high enough, and if there are no other speakers connected set the listening mode to "stereo," which, depending on the model, may cut power to the other channels and improve the output of the front channels and reduce heat buildup. HT receivers often run warmer than stereo-only models no matter what settings you use, so be sure there is good ventilation for cooling.

I looked at the specs for the receiver model you posted, and it's rated at 90 watts per channel at 8 ohms. Depending on how the protection works you may get more or less than that at 6 ohms, but it should still be enough for a moderate-size listening room and volume levels.

Gene makes many good points here. HT receiver 'bass management' can be a confusing thing. As Gene says, make sure the speaker setting is set to "large" if you're not using an outboard powered subwoofer. If you are using an outboard powered sub, then you'll want to set the main L/R speakers (your 40's) to "small", and set the receiver's subwoofer crossover frequency to around 60Hz. Trust me on this--setting them to 'small' (even though the 40 is physically large and very nearly full-range for HT use), if you're using a good powered sub will result in a better-sounding theater setup.

The sub (if it’s a good sub from a good manufacturer) will have superior bass response below 45 Hz than the 40’s, so you want the sub to be reproducing the bass. Also, the sub can be positioned in the room for optimum bass response, without any concern for how that placement will affect the mid-high frequency transmission.

Additionally, your receiver will run cooler, since the sub has its own on-board amplification, thus relieving your receiver of the heat-inducing “heavy-lifting” of trying to reproduce bass below 60 Hz at high SPLs.

Some receivers’ bass management allows you to customize the setup, depending on whether it’s 2-channel music or 5.1 channel theater. In other words, your receiver may allow you to send a full-range signal to the 40’s in 2-channel stereo mode (for music listening), but it will high-pass them at 60 Hz in the 5.1 channel Theater mode. If you have a good sub—a very important ‘if’—I’d leave the sub active in the system whether it is in 2-channel or 5-channel mode, position the sub for best bass response, place the 40’s for best mid-treble response and imaging, and take your Pioneer off the hook for hot operation. A win-win-win, all at the same time.

All of this depends on two things—whether or not you have a really good outboard powered subwoofer, and whether you have the patience to plow through the (usually) poorly-written, obtuse receiver’s owner’s manual. You’ll definitely need that Scotch. Go with the Macallan.

Steve F.

[Guest MixItUp]

Oh, they sound wonderful! Happiness abounds! Thank you! Will need to

test them a bit longer for critical evaluation but so far, they are fabulous!

[Guest MixItUp]

Do you have this receiver connected just with these two speakers for stereo, or are there other speakers in a multispeaker home theater setup?

Gene, it's just the two speakers hooked up for now and quite frankly, for the room space, it will be perfect. I really gave them a minimal sound check last evening as the newly purchased Pioneer receiver is a bear to setup without a TV monitor and we've have yet to properly set it up with calibration.

The receiver was actually purchased just for the living room- music/audio only.

The new plan last night over dinner was to actually hook the new receiver to a TV for easier setup as the process will be much more streamlined and effective. This receiver manual only details screen set-up and calibration. (HTS type) Luckily, we have a portable 19" we can pop over so it may spare some frustration.

I hear you on the defaults and settings on these home theater systems. Thanks for asking and keeping an eye out on me. Are far apart do you think I should have them, minimally? Right now they are about 8 feet apart, probably too close but I got a funky living room/dining room config.

Cheers,

Ingrid

p.s. many ladies on here?

p.s.s. you simply can't know how much I appreciate everyone's help!

[Guest MixItUp]

Gene makes many good points here. HT receiver 'bass management' can be a confusing thing. As Gene says, make sure the speaker setting is set to "large" if you're not using an outboard powered subwoofer. If you are using an outboard powered sub, then you'll want to set the main L/R speakers (your 40's) to "small", and set the receiver's subwoofer crossover frequency to around 60Hz. Trust me on this--setting them to 'small' (even though the 40 is physically large and very nearly full-range for HT use), if you're using a good powered sub will result in a better-sounding theater setup.

Steve,

Should we maybe not have bought a HT receiver? I was sort of wondering this. Hubby spent a lot of time researching it and came up with this model.

Hindsight it always 20/20 but the receiver came before the AR 40 "appropriation". I am copying and printing out every valuable word of advise. I really want this baby to sound sweet.

Thanks!