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Posted

Hey folks!  I've poured over the forum here as well as page 8 in the "Restoring the AR-3a" guide for help getting the woofers out of my AR-2s,  I've tried everything but so far, I've had no success.  The clearance is really tight between the frame and the woofer and the paint-can tool just won't fit.  Now, maybe I'm being a bit too gentle, but these woofers are in great shape and certainly don't want to risk damaging them trying to remove them.  From all I've read here, and the troubleshooting steps I've followed, it sounds like my pots need to be cleaned or replaced which is why I need to get the woofers out.  Does anyone have any suggestions other than patience and perseverance???   Thanks!!

Posted

Assuming you have the complete grill cover off.........use an "L" shaped hook/pick and inserted it a bolt hole. Make sure that the hook end is inserted between the metal basket and the plywood (into the gasket sealant) then with care and caution pull up on the hook/pick to break the seal. Once the seal is broken you can continue around the outside of the metal frame and continue to pry up eventually releasing the whole basket. Don't try to release it just on one bolt hole....good if you can but don't force it. Once released, you can use the paint-can tool to lift up one side and go from there. I'm assuming that you have removed the grille cloth and frame (staples and released the glued down portions). FYI and you probably already have measured that the metal basket is 11" and the opening in the grill cover is 10". Just sayin. The hooks are readily available at Harbour Freight  for $3-$10 for a package of various shapes.

https://www.harborfreight.com/Mini-Pick-and-Hook-Set-63697.html

https://www.harborfreight.com/pick-and-hook-set-7-pc-69592.html

Posted

Thanks for the tip Adventagious.  Grille covers are off-those AR guys must have been paid on a "per-staple-used" basis!  And then the dabs of glue...jeez!!  Thanks for the links-I'll take another run at it armed with these. 

Posted

I also found that warming up the edge of the woofer basket with a hair dryer on low setting helps to soften up the gasket material making it easier to pry the speaker out. Then, use the hook or pick as suggested.   I did this to the woofers and tweeters on my 2ax. 

Posted

I forgot to mention that I used the "L" pick to remove the excess sealant around the woofer basket before I began. I like BAWSME's suggestion to warm up the edge of the basket too. Be careful when you insert the pick into the bolt hole that you don't damage any of the thread on the retaining nut. The pick is to be inserted into the sealant between the plywood and the metal basket frame. And......be very careful with the pick. Easy to injure yourself and also damage the surround.

I use this product for replacement sealant. I bought mine at Home Depot but I see that it's on Amazon too. 

M-D Building Products 71548 Replaceable Cord Weatherstrip, 90 Feet, Gray https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000CSN69C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5ZCfEb0BSEXZZ

Good Luck!

 

Posted

Finally success!!!  The "L" pick was essential for this and the heat was the kicker!!  Thanks you guys so much for the help!!  The cloth surround woofer looks to be in great shape, but I'll still seal it with the solution from Vintage-AR.  I need to get to those pots and see what kind of shape they're in.  I'm getting very little sound from the two cross-firing mids.  From what I'm reading it's corroded pots. 

Posted

yes—most likely the pots. 

you probably have oil filled capacitors that are still good 

Posted

…...you probably have oil filled capacitors that are still good.....

 I was expecting oil filled caps too, but instead I found a metal box mounted up on its side with six soldered connections, and not oil filled box as I've seen in many of the pictures here.  What's up with that?  I cannot find any date stamp anywhere inside either.

Posted

Ahhh.....good news Popsicle AR2. We are both at the same stage of our AR2a project. I just received my replacement pots from Vintage AR and considering adding some further screening around the complete pot to prevent any of the particulate from the original damping material from entering through the pot ventilation holes. Possibly overkill but I did noticed quite a bit of the particulate attached to the magnet area of the woofer and throughout the inside of the box. I did make a pair of ventilated aluminum boxes (using coffee filter material at the vent holes) for my AR3a's and so far they work just fine. Different pots then (Ohmites from JKent). The new ones are not as substantial so I think I'll do the box thing on them as well. Attaching photos of the AR3a pot box without/with lid. Take Care.....

Wired!1.JPG

HPIM0390.JPG

Posted
4 hours ago, Popsicle AR2 said:

…...you probably have oil filled capacitors that are still good.....

 I was expecting oil filled caps too, but instead I found a metal box mounted up on its side with six soldered connections, and not oil filled box as I've seen in many of the pictures here.  What's up with that?  I cannot find any date stamp anywhere inside either.

Does it look like this?

oil_cap.JPG

Posted

That’s the oil filled capacitor and unless dhxo advises differently you probably want to keep them.

I think the boxes you mentioned are the wax covered capacitors found in later models and those should always be replaced 

Kent

Posted

I understand!!!  I apologize for having you on both of my AR2 threads....I'm new to this forum!! I do have the "Restoring the AR3a" pages, and I'm using them as a resource as well.  I'm so appreciative of this page and for everyone being so helpful here!  These AR2 were my step-father's who has recently passed away and I fondly remember sitting in our den with him when I was young listening to these.  I want to bring them back as they were then as best I can and could not even conceive of doing it without y'alls help here.  Thank you!!!

 

Posted
On 1/10/2020 at 8:53 AM, JKent said:

That’s the oil filled capacitor and unless dhxo advises differently you probably want to keep them.

I think the boxes you mentioned are the wax covered capacitors found in later models and those should always be replaced 

Kent

Usual advice is to keep the originals. I tested that advice and found new caps
did not change the sound.

On 1/10/2020 at 9:50 AM, Popsicle AR2 said:

I understand!!!  I apologize for having you on both of my AR2 threads....I'm new to this forum!! I do have the "Restoring the AR3a" pages, and I'm using them as a resource as well.  I'm so appreciative of this page and for everyone being so helpful here!  These AR2 were my step-father's who has recently passed away and I fondly remember sitting in our den with him when I was young listening to these.  I want to bring them back as they were then as best I can and could not even conceive of doing it without y'alls help here.  Thank you!!!

You are certainly welcome. This exact model was my gateway drug to this website and
all things AR, so I'm happy to enable others ?

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