jessiAV

Great restoration Norm! The grain in the wood really pops now, and the grill cloth looks right at home.

Thank you Norm. I will be trying both the Rejuvenating Oil and Howard's next time.

Okay, you've inspired me to refinish my Seventeen's cabinets! They are now ready for Watco (which I have), or something you all recommend.

Outside... just Wow!

Wow! A remarkable improvement! And I really like how nice the wood surrounding the grills looks now. A lot of time and care in these cabinets, and the results show that. Thank you for this update 😀

Blankets like that would certainly be gentle on your floors, again, if everything is clean. And there would be a damping quality. Seems like a good idea IF the blanket surface has a low enough surface friction.

Using furniture sliders is pure genius! Just make sure the floor and slider bottoms are super clean and they shouldn't mark your floor.

It's great how much better these look! The walnut (?) is quite pretty I think..

Well, the woofers are back in their cabinets and as they have been changed often the wood sealing surface is now pretty worn, so I'm reluctant to remove them again for photos. Below is a pic but it's only of the front. I can say that the cone on your spare Seventeen woofer is thinner in cross section than the one's I have, but both magnets are identical and the cone material appears very similar.

And I just noticed: The cone material on the woofer with the light colored surround is roughly twice as thick as in the one with the black surround... using my calibrated 😀fingers as a measuring device.

So after fiddling with these little guys, following Roy's logical methodology, here is what I believe is going on. The main take-away is that there is a difference in these woofers, with the black surround version sounding a bit more 'mellow' or if you will, less 'sharp', in their upper range. But it's VERY subtle and I would never have noticed if both weren't next to each other, and both have a very similar signature. Clearly, I'm just being stupid picky. FWIW, the damaged woofer measures 14% lower in inductance than the replacement woofer. I wasn't sure if that reflected the slightly melted voice coil or if it was within production tolerances. DC impedance is within .2 ohms. My thanks to Mr. Roy and Norman for their wonderful assistance 😀

hi Roy, Thanks for your recommendations 😀 I will try them all, other than the electrical measurements since I've already done those (they measure almost identically). If I discover anything new, I will pass it on here, okay? It's always great to have your insights 😊

Thanks to Norman's generosity, I now have a replacement for my one Seventeen woofer whose voice coil scrapes when manually pushed to the bottom of it's travel. The replacement woofer came from his Model 17 and looks very close to mine, only differing in that it's surround was treated with a black butyl rather than a clear, and dust cap that may(?) have been treated with the clear as it's not black. Strangely, this replacement driver has apparently less midrange than my two originals, I'm guessing maybe 3-4 db down? The bass amplitude is the same however. I'm at a loss to understand why this could be. Any ideas? Mr. Roy, Kent ? Thanks!

My first thought would be to use furniture sliders, which might even damp some vibration? You can get them at WallyWorld and many other box stores. However, I've never used them on my KLH Fives, so it's just a guess.

I do! 😃

Looking forward to your review with both speakers.

I believe Kent's Philmore switch should work nicely. Will the smooth shaft work with the Thirty Three's knob?

Your Thirty Three's high frequency schematic:

Well, I just looked at information on these 33's at CSP that I was unaware of previously. Some rate them more highly than 17's apparently; very nice. I'm excited for you! If you wish to bypass your 33's rear panel switch and set the level to "normal", I imagine you could simply jump the 7.5 ohm resistor, and cut off all tabs where they enter the switch, leaving all the caps and resistors connected as they were.

JessiAV wrote previously: "It might be helpful to know where the wire from the speaker's positive terminal connects to this crossover. I'm guessing it attaches to some of the open cap and resistor legs in the bottom photo? Also, additional photos from other perspectives might be useful. Is it possible to remark an image to show what switch connections you do have now in the Typically, KLH used a yellow wire to feed the tweeter, and sometimes put resistors across capacitors to shape the tweeter's response." ------ I'm thinking your schematic could be completely accurate Norm. And it follows typical KLH designs. My guess is that the switch connects either the 9 o'clock, 10 o'clock 11 o'clock terminals to the 1 o'clock tab (8 uf capacitor). This would always keep the 8 uf cap, 4 ohm resistor, and 3 ohm resistor/2 uf cap inline with the tweeter. Or, the maximum switch setting could connect the 10 o'clock and 3 o'clock terminals, but it seems less likely to me. Hopefully, Roy or Kent will chime in on this.

With new woofer surrounds, those could sound wonderful. I'm looking forward to reading your impressions!

No clue about those drivers. Good used original OLA woofers will bring these back to their former glory, and are usually affordable. While Simply Speakers sells a new replacement, those reportedly do not sound or measure the same as the factory ones.

I have recently obtained a model 20 tweeter. Thanks!

Thanks Brad, that does help a lot. Since I want to examine the foam personally, I may look for some when I'm in a larger city.

Sounds like an interesting experiment! Since my OLA's are all early models, I haven't any foam as an example of what was used by Advent. Is it open or closed cell? And how much material was placed in the cabinet (photos please? Brad)?