Stimpy
-
Posts
598 -
Joined
-
Last visited
Content Type
Profiles
Forums
Events
Posts posted by Stimpy
-
-
It's awesome to hear you acquired these Chris. A perfect fit, considering what needs to be done. And even more impressive, how much you've already accomplished.
Also, my AR58S speakers had Unicon capacitors, like your 9LS speakers. For stock, they still sounded very good. In fact, better than the new M.D.L. electrolytics I tried, in a recap. I had to go to poly caps, for all the series values, in order to hear an improvement.
Good luck.
-
"Acceptable tolerance for capacitors is -20% to +80%"...? That seems too broad of an acceptable tolerance. A tweeter or midrange capacitor at +80% could lead to damage of a driver. Happily, many modern electrolytic capacitors are sold with a -/+10% tolerance, even tighter. Most poly caps are -/+5% or tighter. Even Parts Express sells the inexpensive Dayton -/+1% film capacitors. The Mundorf caps I use are -/+3%.
On removing paint, I've had good luck with Citri-Strip Gel Stripper. Rub it on, let it sit, and wipe it away. It does a great job on removing paint and lacquer.
I also have a pair of AR-5s to restore. So, I'll follow this thread for ideas.
-
I guess that's not too bad, considering the speakers will be tested and tweaked as needed. But, for $450, I'd want high quality capacitors. While good, the often recommended Solen can be bettered. ClarityCap, Mundorf, Jantzen, Audyn or similar at least. Also, I agree with some of the older posts in this thread; I wouldn't replace the crossover inductors, just the caps and resistors. The inductors were already very good, and unless damaged in some way, don't need replacing. That would allow more of the budget to be allocated to the capacitors too.
-
The 210 tweeter, that David referenced, is different that my 410s. And we had 110s and 210s at work, and they had tweeters that matched my 410s as well. So, it would appear that AR developed another TSW tweeter, for their entry level models. As such, I'd continue to search for 410, 510, 610 and 710 tweeters, to find a correct match.
Also, the Holographic tweeter is a cloth dome, and not a TSW metal dome. It uses a metal coating vapor deposited over the dome, to give it the sheen look. But, I doubt it would be compatible with a 510. Be patient, and the correct tweeter will show up on eBay.
-
The 810 and 910 used a unique tweeter manufactured by MB Quart. All the other tweeters are compatible with one another, so it shouldn't be too hard to pick up a spare via eBay.
-
Does CSP member Chris1This1 repair those tweeters?
-
What gets me is the 200028 domes had ferrofluild on the outer and inner sides of the voice coil. The 200032 domes only had ferrofluid on one side, which I assume was the outside? It just boggles my mind, that ferrofluid stays in place, and does not migrate into the inside of the coil. While I know it's magnetic, it is still a fluid, and as such would exhibit the tendencies of a fluid. But, it doesn't. Cool. And weird.
-
Oh, years ago, I came home to the smell of burnt electronics, in my listening room...? After an inspection of all my gear, everything seemed OK. So, I pulled the grills on my 90s, and found a deformed, distended dome midrange. It was hanging out like a detached eyeball...! Well, it didn't take too many guesses to realized that my younger brother must have blown up my speakers. Though, he never confessed to the deed, I knew it had to have been him.
Well, I pulled the dome, and off to the local AR dealer I went. My dealer replaced the dome, no questions asked. I took it home, installed it, and all was good. Fast forward to a recent recap, and after pulling the drivers, I discovered the replacement dome was a 200032 and not a 200028. I never heard a problem from using the incorrect dome. I doubt the OP would either. Still, look for 200028 domes. But, don't be afraid of the 200032 domes either.
-
13 minutes ago, lARrybody said:
I found this explanation of the upper midrange differences on the web.
AnonymousMarch 10, 2014 at 2:26 PM
One area Teledyne-era AR90/AR-90 owners (& AR9/AR-9 owners, too, for that matter) need to exercise caution in, IMO, has to do w/replacement speakers for the AR90/AR-90.
Specifically, there has been a increasing tendency for those parting out an AR91/AR92 to claim that the AR91/AR92 midrange driver (OEM PN=200032) is 100% the same as the AR90 upper-midrange driver (OEM PN=200028), as if the factory routinely shipped AR90/AR9's w/PN=200032's installed. Since the factory specs and wiring diagrams for the AR90/AR9 specify only the PN=200028 then this was not the case.
Differences : The PN=200028 has a larger volume of Ferro-Fluid (for cooling) than the (OEM PN=200032), which also reduces the PN=200028 air cavity below the dome (via that extra Ferro-Fluid) which also raises it's resonant freq, hence it's dedication to the upper-mid range, while the converse is true for PN=200032. But since PN=200032 has a better low freq response, how does that play out when coupled to a AR9/90 crossover? And what loss of sustained power handling is encountered wrt the lower volume of Ferro-Fluid ?
In short, if the Teledyne-era factory felt that anechoic chamber response testing & power-applied-vs-driver-temp testing allowed for one driver to be used in both applications there very likely would never have been a 200032.I agree 100%. But, if the OP can find 200032 domes, to get his 9s up and running, there's no reason not to. The resonance frequency of the 91/92 domes, shouldn't matter, as they'll roll off much higher, in an AR9 circuit.
-
Welcome Dan,
I enjoyed your comparison and write up. But, I know from experience, you also need to consider recapping your AR90s, to bring them up to date. Many here, myself included, have found failed capacitors in our AR9s and AR90s. Capacitors that tested grossly out of spec. I bet after a recap, the few negative performance aspects that you've noted on your 90s, would largely disappear. Electrolytic or poly caps are acceptable. Match the capacitance as closely as possible, while voltages can be higher, without issue (other than the cap size can increase, the higher the voltage).
Thanks again.
-
The 9s and 90s both use the same tweeters and dome mids. The same LMR drivers too. Nothing different. The 91 and 92 also use the same tweeters, but as noted, slightly different mids. However, the 91 and 92 dome mids will work fine for the 9s or 90s. Though, not vice versa. I wouldn't use a 9 or 90 dome midrange in a 91 or 92. Regardless, that gives the OP four different models to source parts drivers from, for the restore.
-
With multiple LST's, does everyone stack both pairs upright? Would they sound better, with the top pair inverted, tweeter to tweeter? A Diapolitto arrangement, resulting in better imaging and focus.
-
Hi John,
You've documented some alarming results! I guess it's a good thing that the tweeters used a 3rd order crossover circuit. Otherwise, I believe both of your tweeters would have been blown, with the readings you've reported for the 6.0uF capacitors. Something to think about, for owners of the Vertical Series speakers.
Also, the defective 6.0uF caps; were they the black/red Callins capacitors? Just curious, and I'm not surprised if they were.
Good work,
Stimpy
-
This same model of AR Subwoofer is up on eBay (not mine) too. The seller is "only" asking $1089.00...! I think the OP's $75 cost was the much better deal.
-
An interesting dilemma. When (acceptable) replacement parts are no longer available, what do we do? How much time, money and effort do we expend, in order to keep our AR's playing? And at what point, are they no longer AR's?
-
I'm sorry to hear about your speaker issues. AR58S speakers are great sounding. I love mine, and I hope you get yours sorted out.
The 4uF cap is for the tweeter. Easy to find, from multiple sites. I've used Parts Express, Parts Connexion, Madisound, and Sonic Craft. All sell high quality capacitors. And if you recap one tweeter, recap both, to keep them matched.
Good luck!
-
Well, Bill Dudleston was a huge Acoustic Research AR9 fan...!
-
I believe they are AR cone tweeters, used in at least AR7's.
-
The 150uF is a shunt to ground. A NPE would be fine for that. The 40 and 4 uF are series caps, and I tend to use poly for those. I've tried Audyn, ClarityCap, Dayton, and Mundorf for those, and like Mundorf best. But, a combination of ClarityCap CSA's and Mundorf EVO Oils would sound very good in parallel together, for the mid dome. Warm and open. A Dayton or Clarity CSA's would work fine for the tweeters. All IMHO.
-
1 hour ago, AR surround said:
Nice project r_laski. I too will be curious as to what you think of your "new" AR9's after you've listened to them for a while. I particularly had problems using poly caps in the 24uF series spot on the UMR and eventually went with Mundorf ECaps bypassed with 0.01uF F&F caps.
E-Caps. Wimp...!
Those ClarityCap CSA's will sound fine. They should make for a nice match. Warm and relaxed. But, a long break in period.
-
Well done! I'm personally happy to see that you used respected brands of capacitors, as well as using good, like capacitors for the series values. In my experience, that really helps the speakers to continue to sound as a single voice. Also, please update your thread, as the speakers break in. Just curious if you'll hear improvements in sound?
Thanks for sharing!
-
Classic Vertical Series AR9
-
49 minutes ago, straightjacket said:
You mean mine are fakes?
Not fakes. Just not the original classic versions. Redesigns and reissues from a much later time period. So unfortunately, your AR's won't have quite the resale value of the more well known earlier models.
Also, I agree with the other post, check eBay. But only look through Completed Sales. That'll show what prices auctions actually achieved when sold.
Good luck.
-
I've experimented a bit with different brands of capacitors. Both NPE and film. And while I find modern NPE's to make very good replacement caps, I still find their lesser resolution distracting. Therefore, I now always recap with film/poly. It doesn't have to be expensive boutique parts. Even Dayton or Erse will sound good, but SoniCap, or ClarityCaps, or Mundorf will sound better.
Dayton caps sound pretty even and balanced. Sometimes a little sibilant, but good for the price. ClarityCaps were warm sounding, with a good soundstage. ESR similar to electrolytic, so driver balance shouldn't shift, with their use. Mundorf, to me, were the most open and transparent of the caps I've used. Very palpable. I like them best.
Regardless, any new modern caps will most likely be an improvement, no matter which type are used. It just depends on how resolving you want the speakers to be, after the recap?
Good luck.
AR90 Crossover rebuild
in Acoustic Research
Posted
I'm rebuilding my AR90s, but it feels like I've been working on them since 2004...! 🙃