Stimpy
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Posts posted by Stimpy
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1 hour ago, Aadams said:
Are you referring to a 9 or 9ls?
I wondered that too? I assumed the post concerned 9LS or LSi's?
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11 hours ago, lARrybody said:
Stimpy is right. Same as the AR91 without the switches. Picture below is AR91 boards recapped with original AR58S board in the middle.
This is the difference on the connection side.
Thanks. But, my 58S speakers don't have wires hanging out the back...!
Nice job on the recap too. All Jantzen Premium Elko's, or do you have Mundorf E-Caps mixed in too? A shame Jantzen dropped the Elko line. It's getting difficult to find good speaker electrolytic caps.
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It should be the same as the AR-91, but without the level switches. Great speakers.
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M&K should be on some of those lists. They introduced the first subwoofer/satellite systems to the market.
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Don't thank me. This is all you and your efforts. Awesome posts, and project. Well done!
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And most would recommend this:
Or, you could get stupid like me...!
Mundorf 33uF 450V $58.37 + Mundorf 47uF 450V $58.37 = $116.74
Hey, I figure, you only live once (and poor).
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Parts Connexion sells Axon poly capacitors. Axon caps are made in the same French factory that makes Solen caps. Some very decent prices, that could allow the use of more poly caps, or save money, whichever is best. I used Axon for the shunts on my AR-90s, with no issues. I used Mundorf for the series caps, which worked out great. Very open and detailed caps, with a very palpable midrange.
NPE caps shunt to ground. But, they do help roll off the high end of the woofers. So, their effect on sound can be audible. Use the best you can.
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I'm no crossover expert, but your cap choices look good. All the correct values too. Even the 8.0uF shunt. Poly for the series capacitors, and NPE for the shunts, is a good cost savings move as well, since poly caps would be most effective for the series values. I've done that too, depending on speaker coast and parts budget. Good find on the 80uF cap as well. I didn't even know Mid West Speaker sold capacitors.
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Excellent work @bjmsam. Vey inventive use of a cabinet door too...!
I don't have any spare mids or tweeters, but I did buy a set of acoustic blanket from an AR-91, for my "center speaker project". It's not the full piece, like 9s and 90s use, so it wouldn't cover the LMR woofer. It'd cover the UMR and tweeter. You're welcome to one, if interested? I'll save the second for my dream center speaker...!
Until then, a spare AR-92 works well as a center too...! 
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On 2/26/2022 at 10:39 PM, ar_pro said:
The AR-91 crossover is identical, except for a pair of 3-position switches & associated resistors to reduce the tweeter & midrange output. The 0 dB switch position would be identical to what you currently have. Not a big deal, but if your speakers don't sound "bright" to you, it would probably not be worth the effort.
An excellent point. My AR-58S speakers sound fine to me, so I guess there's no need for further "upgrades".
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14 hours ago, DavidR said:
ALL nasty solvents. Wear nitrile gloves at the minimum and a respirator with carbon cartridges and/or work outside.
Beware that acetone has a flash point of 0'F. I believe Nitrol thinner is a mix of xylene and methyl benzene. Toluene will pull fat out of your system right thru the skin and attacks all organs.
We keep all of those solvents at work. There's a fume hood too. So, if needed, I could come in on a Saturday and strip the woofers.
Thanks for the warning...!
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22 hours ago, giovanni56 said:
Toluene, Acetone, Nitrol Thinner, Paint Stripper
Thanks! 👍
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Maximum effort, with commendable results. Well done!
Also, what did you use to remove "the crap that he had smeared all over the cone"? I've got AR woofers, that someone coated. I'd like to get rid of it too.
Thanks.
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On 1/24/2022 at 3:15 PM, soundminded said:
I need a replacement upper midrange for AR9 part 20028. Anyone know of a source or know of one for sale. Thanks in advance.
I had this UMR ad flagged, and forgot all about it. It's for a NOS 028 mid. A little pricey, but since it's been up for a while, I would think you could get it a little cheaper.
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24 minutes ago, soundminded said:
Stimpy, I used to tease Ken Kantor. He'd play his LSTs at a volume more suitable for Cerwin Vega or Klipsch than AR in his dorm at MIT. He'd constantly blow the tweeters out, take them down to AR and they'd replace them for free every time. I told him they'd keep them on a shelf under the counter so they'd be ready every time he came back for more replacements. I also told him the reason they hired him was that it was the only way they could recoup the losses they took on all of the free tweeters they gave him. Companies like AR and KLH had incredible service policies. They also had very tight quality control. From what I understand Edgar Villchur was a wonderful boss to his employees as well. And of course his products were a great value for consumers.
Too funny!
While I'd love to own a pair of LSTs, they do scare me. Whether accurate or not, I guess I feel the drivers from my Vertical Series ARs are more robust than the earlier 3/3a iterations. So, in my mind, I feel those drivers (tweeters/mids) are more fragile. While I don't crank, I'd always worry that I'd blow something. Even now, I use a preamp with dual RCA outs. One set of outputs drives my AR amp, and the other drives my Martin Logan amp. Depending on music and mood, determines which amp gets turned on. It's like having 2 cars, the mileage gets split between speakers, to help them last longer!
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11 minutes ago, DavidR said:
Stimpy, doesn't the 032 only have ferrofluid on one side of the VC ?
I want to know how they keep it on one side ........
Yes, the 032 has ferrofluid on one side of the voice coil, where the 028 has fluid on the inside and outside of the coil. Magnetics keeps it in place, but how you get it into one side is beyond me...!
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5 hours ago, teknofossil said:
Well, that settles that. If it isn't audible...
Just trying to relay my direct experience and help out... Not preaching gospel...
Same driver, just different amounts of ferrofluid. Plus the UMR in the 9 & 90 is high passed at a higher frequency, so it does cut off the low end response of the dome, which should help mitigate the differing resonance frequencies between the 200028 and 200032 domes. Maybe that's why they sound the same, to me...! But, you're welcome to listen and draw your own conclusions. Fine with me...
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Years ago, my brother blew a 200028 dome mid, in my 90's. So, off I went to the local AR dealer, and no questions asked, they swapped the dead driver for a new one. Well, I was very surprised, when years later, I pulled the speakers apart, for a recap, and I found the replacement mid was a 200032! I never heard any differences between the two.
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1 hour ago, cdub92 said:
Hey Stimpy,
yeah, I double checked with my DMM. It read open, unfortunately. I was hoping to be able to find an original tweeter on eBay or on a marketplace. I did find two new old stock from ‘98 on USaudiomart that someone has listed for $125. I feel like that would be a hell of a buy if they’re indeed working. Thanks for the info on the vertical series tweeters. I’ll add them to my saved searches on eBay.
Gratitude,
Caleb
If you get desperate, and feel adventurous, the AR-1MS, and the AR Mid/tweeter plate, used in several versions of the 38B, 48B and 58B, use the same tweeter diaphragm, as the AR-9. One of those diaphragms could be swapped into the 9 tweeter. Those tweeters might even use the same magnet assembly, allowing you to remount the whole assembly onto a AR-9 tweeter faceplate. But, while I've looked up the diaphragm, and know they match, I'm unsure on the magnet assembly.
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Did you check the suspect tweeter with a multimeter? I'd test it, to see if it reads open, before spending for a replacement. Plus, Vertical Series tweeters pop up often on eBay. Any of the 9, 90, 91 or 92 tweeters would work. Even the 58S tweeter, though the color might be different.
Good luck.
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Lot's of different bypass capacitors in there @DavidR. Have you had listening sessions with each type, or just experimenting?
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20 hours ago, NJtechguy said:
R_Laski,
Thank you so so much for your feed back (as well as the others that provided info). I was tied up for the past 6 weeks but now ready to move forward. I was deciphering your parts list for the ClarityCaps and was confused in a few areas but think I have it right.
1) I assume the list of parts is for one complete crossover upgrade (one AR Speaker cabinet). Therefore I would double up on the parts to complete 2 AR90 speaker cabinets.
2) In each line item you mix the words "series" and "parallel" in the same sentence, which confuses me. example: 24mF (series) ClarityCap CSA (2) 12.0mF 250VDC connected in parallel. To me, I would think I need to just wire two 12mF together in parallel to make 24mF. So whats the "series' for?
Finally, please review the parts list I assembled in PartsConnexion shopping cart (the 4.7mF and 2mF caps are out of stock right now and listed as $0, but I would order them when it comes in stock or elsewhere) and let me know if this is complete for 2 AR90 cabinets.
Many thanks!!!
The parts list looks good. But, don't forget the 350uF Capacitor on the woofer. These should do it.
MDL 100 X 2
As to "series" and "parallel", don't be confused. The 4, 6, 24, and 80 capacitors are all series capacitors, as they're wired directly in the circuit part to their respective drivers. Now, since you have to combine caps, to add to the needed values, they are wired in parallel, to correctly add together. Then, the parallel bundle is wired up where it's used. The actual "parallel" caps, in the schematic, are shunt capacitors, since they are wired to ground.
Now, you can also order ClarityCaps through Madisound. They look to have your missing caps in stock.
Good luck!
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Those look awesome! Well done. Though, I do wonder why AR used a brown front face, where the 9s and 90s were black? You'd think they'd all match each other, since they are all part of the Vertical Series.
Until then, a spare AR-92 works well as a center too...! 
Some Mods to the AR-9
in Acoustic Research
Posted
If you are referring to AR9LS speakers, with their down-firing woofers, many use Sonic Barrier as a replacement. Parts Express sells several types, depending on the thickness required? You'll have to measure and cut it to fit.
Sonic Barrier