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r_laski

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About r_laski

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  1. I've posted this AR9 crossover diagram here and in my post/threads of my AR9 recap/upgrade. I've added the second 1.37mH inductor coil to the UMR section. See https://community.classicspeakerpages.net/topic/11407-my-ar-9-capacitor-recapupgrade-project/ my 12/3/2020 post for picture and details. It looks like the AR90 UMR section drawings in earlier posts on this topic have the same second inductor coil wired the same way.
  2. I'm posting this AR9 crossover schematic and picture to show there is a second 1.37mH (6) coil in the Upper MidRange (UMR). It is the one to the right in the picture. One (outside) wire is connected to the 24uF cap and 0.2mH coil. The other (inside) wire is connected to the upper black (-) binding post. The other 1.37mH (6) coil is on the lower left corner. One wire (outside) is connected to the 0.2mH coil, orange wire to UMR (+), and 8uF cap. The other wire (inside) is connected to the 6 Ohm resistor, as shown in the schematic (resistor not in the picture).
  3. This is an AR9 woofer and Lower Mid Range (LMR) crossover section picture and AR engineering drawing of same. in the picture, the 80uF capacitor (gray) is on the lower right corner. As you can see, the purple wire comes from the attenuation board to one pole on the 80uF cap. The 2.63mH (13) coil is attached to the other 80uF cap pole. The other end of the 2.63mH coil, one pole of the 30uF capacitor, and white wire are attached at a single point. White wire connects to the (+) terminal on the 8" LMR. The green and brown wires are connected to the other end of the 30uF capacitor. The green wire
  4. I purchased all the Clarity Caps (and the “defective” Ecaps) from Parts Connexion. For my other pair of AR-9s I am leaning toward purchasing matched pairs of single caps where possible vs DIY assembling matching pairs of 2 caps paralleled together. Just have to get over exactly matching original crossover cap values. I purchased matched pairs of 470uF ECaps from Sonic Craft. I received exactly matching caps within 1% of rated value. Yes we are. For both exactly matching original capacitor values and tolerances between speaker crossovers. I think we solved the same proble
  5. Thanks to all of you on your compliments. >>I particularly had problems using poly caps in the 24uF series spot on the UMR and eventually went with Mundorf ECaps bypassed with 0.01uF F&F caps.<< >> Yes, as many of you recall, those Solens ? beat me into submission!! << I read your AR-9 posts while preparing for my project. I actually purchased Mundorf 22uF and 1uF ECaps (couldn't find a 2uF) for the 24uF UMR and was going to experiment with them. However, when I measured new 22uF ECaps they measured 23.8/23.9. That’s almost 9% over rated value. It sho
  6. It’s been a long time since I posted on this forum. After several years without an audio system my better half urged me to replace whatever needed replacing and get back to enjoying my music collection again. I have two pairs of AR-9 speakers. I am using one pair of these in my “new” audio system. I knew part of my system rebuild would be recapping a pair of AR-9s. I spent a several days on this forum reading every thread I could find on what you all have done with your AR-9s. Thank you all for the wealth of information. I found it helped me develop a plan for recapping my AR-9s. Years
  7. Really great post Steve. >>They were in truly excellent shape, the 12” and 8”-ers re-foamed with care and the x-o re-capped correctly. (The previous owner is an MIT electrical engineer.)<< I was wondering if you could elaborate on the x-o recap. I have 4 AR-9’s (possibly 6 if my brother wants his done) I’d like to recap, but not run into any problems other forum members have indicated they had with recapping their AR-9’s. >>I’ve enjoyed all of them and they all have their particular charms. There is a dividing line of sorts, between the sound of the 11’s and the sound of the
  8. Mike, Here is a picture of an original AR-11B crossover. If yours looks like this, its all original. Based on your visual inspecton, I'd recommend you replace the caps (even though you can't measure them) and leave everything else alone. Rich
  9. >>I found single Solen capacitors at exactly the 120uF capacitance at Madisound. Seems a good way to go for not too much to avoid having to parallel others.<< A single Solen cap is a very good way to go. >>Also, the foam surrounds for my tweeters are in fairly good condition. Would you suggest I leave them alone for now or consider the felt surrounds offered by Vintage AR?<< If the foam is not dried out and turning to dust, or, turned into a sticky, goo - leave them alone. I had to remove the tweeter foam on my AR-11s and I just left them "naked" like the earlier AR
  10. Comment on AR-11 schematic: This is a VERY early schematic. As Tom Tyson noted, I’m not sure the 2 amp fuse was ever included in production AR-11s. I’ve never seen an AR-11 with the fuse. Also, the parallel 72uF and 50uF caps were replaced with a single 120uF cap in the woofer section – silver Callins can – when the AR-11 crossover was reconfigured from a 2 board to a single board crossover. Mike, Since you purchased your AR-11s in 1978, I’m assuming they are what we refer to as “AR-11B” –black/silver badge and foam around tweeter. I purchased mine that same year. If you remove the woofer
  11. >> It seems like if you pulled all four wires off the switches, you would basically be connecting them all together to bypass the switches. So if I take a piece of solid copper wire and crimp and solder on 4 flat lugs to match the size of the slip on connectors already on the wires, and bend them up at a 90 degree angle to the wire, i could make a connection that would allow me to use the existing wires as is and just move them back and forth to A/B with and without the switches. I could mount this to a small piece of wood to create my own terminal strip. Does that sound right to you? Th
  12. >> My original plan is to recap only one speaker at first to see how much of a difference there is. ... I'll probably leave the switches at first to just hear the difference of the recap alone. << Leaving the switches in after recapping is probably a better way to go. I could have written my recommendation either way. If you find you don't ever use them after an adequate period of listening you can always go back in and remove the switch board wires and connect wires/capacitors as I described for bypassing the switches. >>If I want to clean the switches, can I just squirt in
  13. >> If I want to bypass them, how do I hook up the 4 wires going to the board (from front of speaker L to R -- purple-orange-white-yellow) Does anyone have a diagram of how to hook them up to bypass the switches? They have lugs on them and I don't want to cut them (so I can easily re-attach them) Sorry for all the questions, but this is my first speaker recap, and I want to be sure of what I'm doing before I start. << Bob, Regarding bypassing the switch board - 1. The long white wire is connected from the UPPER red binding post to the switch board. You can disconnect this wire at
  14. " I had a quick question. It looks like the most important of the resistors is the 6 ohm 22 watt. The others are part of the switches to reduce output, and since I've never used them, I'll probably bypass them anyway. I was going to get some replacements for the 6 ohm but the closest I could find is to put 2 - Mill's 12 watt 12.5 Ohm (from P.E.) in parallel to get a 24 watt 6.25 ohm. I'm mot sure how critical the value is in a crossover. Would the 6.25 ohm be close enough to 6?" IMHO - I'd measure the 6 Ohm resistor. If it measures OK - don't replace it. The sand cast resistors AR used are
  15. Aleksandar, --… What are the differences between these speakers and the later versions with black front badges and Teledyne front stickers?...-- One “non-cosmetic” difference between the brass logo AR-11 and the black/silver logo AR-11 is the diffraction foam on the faceplate of the tweeter. There is one thing you need to look at with the brass logo AR-11s: Look at the binding posts and the attenuation switches on the back. If the switches are above the binding posts you have a single board crossover. If the switches are to the side of the binding posts you have a two-board crossover. The two
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