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r_laski

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About r_laski

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  1. I purchased all the Clarity Caps (and the “defective” Ecaps) from Parts Connexion. For my other pair of AR-9s I am leaning toward purchasing matched pairs of single caps where possible vs DIY assembling matching pairs of 2 caps paralleled together. Just have to get over exactly matching original crossover cap values. I purchased matched pairs of 470uF ECaps from Sonic Craft. I received exactly matching caps within 1% of rated value. Yes we are. For both exactly matching original capacitor values and tolerances between speaker crossovers. I think we solved the same problem differently with equally acceptable results. I replaced Dayton caps with Solens. You kept the Daytons and replaced the Solens with Ecaps. I suspect Daytons and Solens don’t mix well together. Like I said, I believe different brands of capacitors do not always mix well together. That would be a daunting task to do all at the same time. The research time, purchasing parts, prototyping the first crossover, initial testing vs stock AR-9, and building and installing crossover in second AR-9 took about 3 months. I still have a pair of AR-9s to do. If you are happy with what you have already done to your AR speakers there is no need to redo them. Yes, exactly!
  2. Thanks to all of you on your compliments. >>I particularly had problems using poly caps in the 24uF series spot on the UMR and eventually went with Mundorf ECaps bypassed with 0.01uF F&F caps.<< >> Yes, as many of you recall, those Solens ? beat me into submission!! << I read your AR-9 posts while preparing for my project. I actually purchased Mundorf 22uF and 1uF ECaps (couldn't find a 2uF) for the 24uF UMR and was going to experiment with them. However, when I measured new 22uF ECaps they measured 23.8/23.9. That’s almost 9% over rated value. It should be no more than +/- 5%. I never used them. I purchased two pairs of 470uF ECaps for woofer crossovers from a different source. I paid extra to have these precision matched. I received exactly matched pairs. The second pair is for when I rebuild the crossovers of my remaining pair of stock AR-9s. I had a similar experience of capacitor disaster with a pair of AR-90s. I reread a thread on a pair of AR-90s I worked on 16 years ago. I tried a combination of Dayton, Solen, and North Creek (no longer available) poly caps. It was very unpleasant, unlistenable. I replaced the Daytons with Solens and all was well. My point is different brands of capacitors do not always mix well together. So far same brand Clarity Cap CSAs and PX series work perfectly together in these AR-9s. The MDL and Ecaps combination in the woofer crossover also work extremely well together. My take on bypassing – I’ve read many views about bypassing. I bypassed the electrolytics in the woofer crossover with Clarity CSA poly caps. I chose this based on a similar practice by a company that rebuilds crossovers, mostly for classic Polk Audio speakers. They do not bypass Clarity Caps, so I also did not. There is one thing I wish someone would research about bypassing. Is there a formula for an optimum ratio of bypass capacitor value to “primary” crossover capacitor value? I’ve seen the recommendations for .01uF up to a certain capacitor value and 0.1uF above that. I’m not sure how much affect a 0.1uF capacitor has on a 2500uF or 470uf capacitor. Not going to remove them, just something to ponder. >> I too will be curious as to what you think of your "new" AR9's after you've listened to them for a while. << I've got more than 30 hours of listening to these "new" AR-9s. So far I am VERY PLEASED. I'm running them with all switches at 0dB. I haven't heard any need to "fiddle" with them. I will post any changes to my listening impressions as I spend more time listening. At most, I expect them to “warm up” only slightly more over time. There is one “improvement” in how these AR-9s sound that is worth mentioning. It’s related to speaker placement, listening position, and listening room acoustic characteristics. My listening room is a multipurpose room – separate audio and TV (no home theater). My stereo system is along one of the long (wide) walls, TV along a short (narrow) wall. I’ve placed the AR-9s as close to recommended in the owner’s manual as possible. My normal listening position is centered between the speakers seated against the opposite wall. The “sound stage” is very good in this position. However, if I move about 2 feet forward the sound stage really opens up. It appears to move a little forward toward me, but, more so it extends beyond the walls behind the speakers. Side to side it extends past the speakers to the corners and side walls of the room. Imaging, by that I mean separation and placement of individual vocalists and instruments, is much improved. This appears to be an acoustic sweet spot in the room. >> I like the CSA Clarity caps, too. I didn't think 'break-in' took all that long. However, I played pink noise thru them for about 8 hours. Also, I use a 3.9uF and not 2 x 2uF. << I considered both options. A single 3.9uF cap is probably just as accurate to replace a 4uF cap and a lot less costly. 2x2uF is just my personal preference. I may go with single caps within 5% of desired value, where possible, in my second pair of AR-9s.
  3. It’s been a long time since I posted on this forum. After several years without an audio system my better half urged me to replace whatever needed replacing and get back to enjoying my music collection again. I have two pairs of AR-9 speakers. I am using one pair of these in my “new” audio system. I knew part of my system rebuild would be recapping a pair of AR-9s. I spent a several days on this forum reading every thread I could find on what you all have done with your AR-9s. Thank you all for the wealth of information. I found it helped me develop a plan for recapping my AR-9s. Years ago I downloaded and saved all the AR-9 engineering drawings that were posted at the time. Glad I did as I couldn’t find them again on this web site. I also spent considerable time researching various types (electrolytic/film), brands, and sources of capacitors. I also found some valuable information on a few crossover component sellers’ websites / links. Below is a rundown of my project. Scope/Considerations: Some things I considered for the AR-9s: 1. Internal or External crossover. I decided to keep the crossover internal. There is only a minor change to how it is configured. Each Crossover section remains as originally laid out but is built on a separate pegboard. 2. What crossover parts to replace / retain. I decided to reuse all inductors and left the switch board as is. I replaced all capacitors, 6 Ohm resistor in the upper mid-range (UMR) crossover, binding posts, and all internal wiring. 3. Capacitor selection. Due to size and cost, woofer crossover capacitors are electrolytic with film bypass capacitor. All other capacitors are film capacitors (details below). I replaced the original wires with color coded 16 gauge tinned copper wire. 4. Cabinet changes. The cabinets are in such great shape I left them as is. The only “modification” was removal of plastic Velcro dots on tweeters and upper mid-range drivers and cabinet. I did not remove the original crossover backboard. 5. Drivers. Years ago I re-foamed all the 12” and 8”drivers in both pairs of AR-9s. The foam surrounds are still in new condition. Thanks to the speakers being boxed up or covered up while stored during a long period of non-use . I attached adhesive backed gasket tape to all drivers prior to reinstalling them in the cabinets during final reassembly. Crossover tear down: I removed nuts securing woofer/Lower mid-range (LMR) crossover boards removed them intact. This one had the small axial 470uF capacitor. The other AR9 had the large 470uF radial can capacitor. Before removal of any component from a board I took many pictures and labeled what each wire inductor lead and capacitor lead was connected to. I removed everything on the UMR/High Range crossover board without removing the board from the cabinet. Then the worst task of the entire project – removing hot glue from all inductors. Original capacitors measurements: I used the same basic capacitance meter I used when I recapped my AR-11s years ago. It tests at a single frequency, but for me that is enough to indicate whether a capacitor is in or out of specs. Below is a chart of capacitor measurements from both AR-9s in this project. Capacitor AR9K013212 Dif % AR9K013494 Dif % 2500 2250 -250 -10 2330 -170 -6.8 470 576 +106 22.6 510 +40 8.5 80 106.4 +26.4 33 151 +71 88.75 40 48.1 +8.1 20.25 40.7 +.7 1.75 30 50.5 +20.5 68.3 65.4 +35.4 118.0 24 33.0* +9.0 37.5 27.1 +3.1 12.9 8 9.31 +1.31 16.375 8.79 +.79 9.875 6 5.94 -.6 10 5.57 -.43 7.17 4 4.07 +.07 1.75 9.25 +5.25 131.25 * Capacitor reading was unstable, continuous changing. No doubt in my mind new capacitors would improve these AR-9s. Only one capacitor in each speaker measured within my threshold of within +/- 5% or rated capacitance. I spend a considerable amount of time deciding what capacitors to use for this rebuild. I considered capacitors I used for AR-LST, AR-11 and AR-90 recaps in the past, what others in this forum used, and what capacitors are being used and recommended by professional crossover builders/re-builders. I made several cost comparison spreadsheets of capacitor brands from various sources. I benefited from a 25% off seasonal sale on all the film capacitors I chose. It took purchases from 4 different sources to get all these capacitors. I decided on the following combination of capacitors: 2500uF - M.D.L. (Jantzen) (2) 1000uF and (1) 500uF electrolytic bypassed with 0.1 uF Clarity Cap CSA 630VDC film. 470uF - Mundorf E-Cap AC Raw electrolytic (matched pair) bypassed with 0.1 uF Clarity Cap CSA 630VDC film. 80uF - (2) 40uF Clarity Cap PX 250VDC. 40uF - 40uF Clarity Cap PX 250VDC 30uF - 30uF Clarity Cap PX 250VDC 24uF - (2) 12uF Clarity Cap CSA 250VDC 8uF - 4.7uF + 3.3uF Clarity Cap PX 250VDC 6uF - (2) 3.0uF Clarity Cap CSA 250 VDC 4uF - (2) 2.0uF Clarity Cap CSA 250VDC Note: Woofer capacitors are electrolytic bypassed with 0.1uF film. All other parallel capacitors are Clarity Cap PX film to save cost. All other series capacitors are Clarity Cap CSA except for 80uF LMR series capacitor. PX was selected to save cost. At the sale prices, the Clarity Cap film caps ended up costing about the same as a regularly priced set of Solen film capacitors would have. Prototype: As I stated above, I built each driver’s crossover on a separate pegboard. Preliminary layout Final layout - Holes in 4 corners of woofer pegboard match up perfectly with mounting studs in bottom of cabinet. Homemade bus bar of 14 AWG tinned copper. On the second AR-9 crossover I stacked the 500uF cap on top of the two 1000uF caps to reduce space and moved the bus bar over. This enabled me to move the entire layout down one row of holes and still have the corner holes open for the mounting stud in the cabinet. This also gave me more space between this board and the LMR board mounted behind it on the back of the cabinet. Crossover from second AR-9 (big can 470uF) and new woofer crossover - I tried to orient inductors in different planes as much as possible on each board and across boards. Original AR-9 LMR section (lower left quadrant) and new LMR crossover. The new board is mounted to the back of the cabinet below the UMR (original backboard). Woofer and LMR boards mounted in cabinet. Best effort to orient inductors in different planes between the two boards. UMR and High Range (tweeter) capacitor pegboards. UMR is built around original binding post holes. One side of pegboard holes had to be enlarged for all binding post holes to line up. UMR and tweeter boards in cabinet. Close-up of tweeter and top of UMR pegboards. One blue wire on tweeter board goes to tweeter. Second blue wire goes to black (-) binding post. Originally inductor and blue wire were connected directly to black (-) binding post. Wires: With few exceptions I kept all new internal wires the same length as the original wire lengths. However I changed some of the wire colors for convenience/ standardization. All woofer section wires were red (+) / black (-). I changed the wire from the upper red binding post to the switch board from white to gray. I kept the purple wire color from the switch board to the 80uF cap on LMR crossover. All other LMR wires were white (+) green (-). All UMR wires Orange (+) brown (-) All tweeter wires yellow (+) blue (-). Final assemble and testing - While I was working on the project AR-9s, I hooked up my other pair of AR-9s to my new audio system to “break-in” the new components and establish a subjective baseline of what an original pair of AR-9s sound like. I have to say, not knowing the actual condition of the capacitors in this pair the sound was very good. However, “s”, “t”, “st” harshness was very evident. I also had to switch the UMRs to -3db to tame its overpowering the other drivers. After reassembly I replace the left original AR-9 with recap project AR-9. All switches on the recapped AR-9 set to 0db. No burn-in. Just put some music on and subjectively listen. Immediately there was a noticeable difference between the left and right speakers. The left was a little louder, MUCH cleaner. The original AR-9s sounded pretty good by themselves. Compared to the recapped AR-9 however, my impression was the original AR-9 was now somewhat “fuzzy”. They sound between the two speakers was unbalanced. Putting the UMR switch on the original AR-9 to 0db balanced the output somewhat. But, it did not improve the difference in clarity (no pun intended). I rebuilt the second AR-9 crossovers making minor changes in the layout. One significant change I made was to glue machine screws to the spacer boards. I put spacers under the crossover pegboards to provide space under the pegboards for the cable ties that secured the capacitors and inductors. Now all crossover boards are secured with screws, washers, and nuts and can be removed. Only the spacers are glued to the cabinet in this AR-9. Listening with both recapped AR-9s hooked up: I’m not a GESR (golden-eared stereo reviewer). All I can say is I’ve never owned an audio system that sounded this amazing! I remember when we were recapping AR-11s, AR-90s and LSTs. We would describe the improvement as being as if a veil had been removed from in front of the speakers. This is more like a heavy curtain has been removed. Female and male singers sound like they are standing in front of me in the room. Background vocals are distinct from the lead singer. There is air and space between instruments and around each instrument. As familiar as I thought I was of my music collection, and I can’t believe I’m saying this, I heard things I never heard before in the music.
  4. Really great post Steve. >>They were in truly excellent shape, the 12” and 8”-ers re-foamed with care and the x-o re-capped correctly. (The previous owner is an MIT electrical engineer.)<< I was wondering if you could elaborate on the x-o recap. I have 4 AR-9’s (possibly 6 if my brother wants his done) I’d like to recap, but not run into any problems other forum members have indicated they had with recapping their AR-9’s. >>I’ve enjoyed all of them and they all have their particular charms. There is a dividing line of sorts, between the sound of the 11’s and the sound of the 91’s, to my ear. Old and new. The 11 was more closely related to the sound of the 3a than it is to the 91 and 50t, in my opinion.<< I completely agree with what you are saying about a dividing line between AR-11 and AR-91. >>It is definitely NOT merely an “11 with more bass.” The 9 has a striking midrange clarity and utter command of the material such that the listener is really “listening through” the recording, right to the performance itself (at least on good recordings). No doubt the speaker’s 4-way design and the 8” driver’s 200-1200 Hz role has a lot to do with its complete lack of midrange strain and coloration.<< Absolutely correct. You might be able to say the AR-9 is an AR-91 with more bass. But, it is more correct to say the AR-9 is an AR-90 with more bass. Also, The AR-9 is a completely different era of speaker from the AR LST, another AR “tour-de-force” speaker. >>Assuming no amp-induced distortion (and with 385 wpc RMS in my modestly-sized room, there isn’t any), the 9’s just never run out of steam. You find yourself playing things a bit louder than usual just because everything is always so darned clean. When the branches of a decorative artificial tree in the corner were literally waving in the breeze, I knew the 9’s were really cranking. But sweetly.<< Crank it up!! The 9’s will not disappoint. One thing I found with LST’s vs. 9’s is the LST’s needed a lot more power to "come alive" than the 9’s. Like the AR-11 vs. AR-9 you really can’t compare the “sound” of the AR LST to the “sound” of the AR-9. Both are outstanding speaker designs. They just present the soundstage to the listener differently. >>That so many jaws still continue to drop upon hearing them (including mine!) 30+ years after they came out, says it all.<< Amen. I enjoyed reading your post. Rich
  5. Mike, Here is a picture of an original AR-11B crossover. If yours looks like this, its all original. Based on your visual inspecton, I'd recommend you replace the caps (even though you can't measure them) and leave everything else alone. Rich
  6. >>I found single Solen capacitors at exactly the 120uF capacitance at Madisound. Seems a good way to go for not too much to avoid having to parallel others.<< A single Solen cap is a very good way to go. >>Also, the foam surrounds for my tweeters are in fairly good condition. Would you suggest I leave them alone for now or consider the felt surrounds offered by Vintage AR?<< If the foam is not dried out and turning to dust, or, turned into a sticky, goo - leave them alone. I had to remove the tweeter foam on my AR-11s and I just left them "naked" like the earlier AR-11A's were. >>Gee, I really appreciate everyone's help. I've listened to today's speaker technology on the market and I cannot find anything below $6,000 with my ears and preferences that compare to our AR's.<< I know what you mean!! Good Luck restoring your AR-11s Rich
  7. Comment on AR-11 schematic: This is a VERY early schematic. As Tom Tyson noted, I’m not sure the 2 amp fuse was ever included in production AR-11s. I’ve never seen an AR-11 with the fuse. Also, the parallel 72uF and 50uF caps were replaced with a single 120uF cap in the woofer section – silver Callins can – when the AR-11 crossover was reconfigured from a 2 board to a single board crossover. Mike, Since you purchased your AR-11s in 1978, I’m assuming they are what we refer to as “AR-11B” –black/silver badge and foam around tweeter. I purchased mine that same year. If you remove the woofer look at the crossover for burned resistors (blackened hot melt glue between resistor and board it’s attached to). If glue is still white, the resistors should still be good. The inductors and wiring should also be OK. Have the caps individually tested. They most likely are due replacing as Kent has stated. 10uF and 40uF caps are readily available. You may have to parallel 2 or more caps to get a 120uF cap. I’ve had good experience with Solen caps, not so good experience with Daytons. I haven’t tried Bennic or Carli caps yet. Your amp/AR-11 combination should work well in a ~ 12X15 room. At “sensible” volume levels you will have little risk of amp clipping and damage to your AR-11s. I’ve powered my AR-11s for years with 300 wpc into 4 Ohm amps with no damage. Hope this helps
  8. >> It seems like if you pulled all four wires off the switches, you would basically be connecting them all together to bypass the switches. So if I take a piece of solid copper wire and crimp and solder on 4 flat lugs to match the size of the slip on connectors already on the wires, and bend them up at a 90 degree angle to the wire, i could make a connection that would allow me to use the existing wires as is and just move them back and forth to A/B with and without the switches. I could mount this to a small piece of wood to create my own terminal strip. Does that sound right to you? Thanks, Bob << A homemade terminal strip. That would work. Rich
  9. >> My original plan is to recap only one speaker at first to see how much of a difference there is. ... I'll probably leave the switches at first to just hear the difference of the recap alone. << Leaving the switches in after recapping is probably a better way to go. I could have written my recommendation either way. If you find you don't ever use them after an adequate period of listening you can always go back in and remove the switch board wires and connect wires/capacitors as I described for bypassing the switches. >>If I want to clean the switches, can I just squirt in some DeOxit through the slot from the front without removing anything? I didn't want to remove the board their mounted on and can't see anything with it in the way.<< I think that will NOT work. A few years ago, I took apart a similar switch (AR-11). They are well sealed. All you will be cleaning is the ball at the end of the toggle handle, not the inner workings of the switch. If anything, you want to spray the contacts where the switch is soldered to the switch board. Rich
  10. >> If I want to bypass them, how do I hook up the 4 wires going to the board (from front of speaker L to R -- purple-orange-white-yellow) Does anyone have a diagram of how to hook them up to bypass the switches? They have lugs on them and I don't want to cut them (so I can easily re-attach them) Sorry for all the questions, but this is my first speaker recap, and I want to be sure of what I'm doing before I start. << Bob, Regarding bypassing the switch board - 1. The long white wire is connected from the UPPER red binding post to the switch board. You can disconnect this wire at the binding post or remove this wire to bypass the switch board. You can also disconnect the other three wires at the switch board (easy) or desolder them where they attach to the original capacitors (a little more difficult). 2. You must then run wires from the upper red binding post to the capacitors of the lower midrange, upper midrange, and high range crossovers. A. Run a Yellow wire from the upper red binding post to where the yellow wire that comes from the switch board attaches to the 4uF capacitor of the high range (tweeter) circuit. Or, since you are replacing the capacitors, attach one lead of the 4uF capacitor directly to the upper red binding post. B. Run an Orange wire from the upper red binding post to where the orange wire that comes from the switch board attaches to the 24uF capacitor of the upper midrange circuit. Or, since you are replacing the capacitors, attach one lead of the 24uF capacitor directly to the upper red binding post. C. Run a Violet wire from the upper red binding post to where the violet wire that comes from the switch board attaches to the 80uF capacitor of the lower midrange circuit. Since this capacitor is on the bottom board, you will have to run a wire from the upper red binding post to the 80uF capacitor. 3. You should be able to figure out a way to do this that is reversible so you can put the switch board back into the crossover circuit. I recommend you recap and bypass only one speaker and test it against your other speaker before you make any modifications to it. You can then compare an "original" AR-9 with a "recapped/bypassed" AR-9. If you don't like it bypassed, reconnect the switches and compare your "original" AR-9 with a "recapped only" AR-9. As Richard mentioned, you may find the switches necessary with the new caps. Rich
  11. " I had a quick question. It looks like the most important of the resistors is the 6 ohm 22 watt. The others are part of the switches to reduce output, and since I've never used them, I'll probably bypass them anyway. I was going to get some replacements for the 6 ohm but the closest I could find is to put 2 - Mill's 12 watt 12.5 Ohm (from P.E.) in parallel to get a 24 watt 6.25 ohm. I'm mot sure how critical the value is in a crossover. Would the 6.25 ohm be close enough to 6?" IMHO - I'd measure the 6 Ohm resistor. If it measures OK - don't replace it. The sand cast resistors AR used are very rugged and don't usually require replacement unless the speakers have been overdriven and the resistors overheated. If you have to replace it, consider the 25 watt sand cast resistors from Madisound. A 2.7 Ohm and 3.3 Ohm in SERIES (not parallel) will get you the 6 Ohms you are looking for. If you do replace the 6 Ohm resistor, I recommend you elevated the resistor(s) above the board by bending the leads. This allows cooling space between the resistor and the board reducing the risk of overheating the resistor. I'm very interested in how your project turns out and results of any subjective listening tests you do between stock/recapped AR-9s. Rich
  12. Aleksandar, --… What are the differences between these speakers and the later versions with black front badges and Teledyne front stickers?...-- One “non-cosmetic” difference between the brass logo AR-11 and the black/silver logo AR-11 is the diffraction foam on the faceplate of the tweeter. There is one thing you need to look at with the brass logo AR-11s: Look at the binding posts and the attenuation switches on the back. If the switches are above the binding posts you have a single board crossover. If the switches are to the side of the binding posts you have a two-board crossover. The two board crossovers were only in the very earliest AR-11s. Since the cloth of the tweeter is black and not an off-white color, I suspect the AR-11 in the picture is not one of the earliest AR-11s produced. The single board crossover used the same components in the brass and black/silver AR-11s. The two-board crossovers used different components and the attenuation switches are wired much differently. I posted pictures of these somewhere on this forum. When I restored a two-board AR-11 I changed the attenuation circuit to the later “version.” --…Any difference in sound beside the cosmetics?...— Steve F wrote: “My gut feel is that you could have a stereo pair of one brass-logo'd 11 and one black-and-silver plastic logo'd 11, and (assuming they were both operating properly, within AR's production QC spec) never hear anything amiss.” I totally agree with Steve. The components used were essentially unchanged between the two versions with the single board crossover. I am also in complete agreement with Ken Kantor’s statement in a recent discussion on the AR-10pi, “In my opinion, the addition of the foam to the tweeter faceplate was not a particularly good idea.” In my opinion, once the foam on the tweeter starts to disintegrate, the best thing to do is completely remove the foam and adhesive from the tweeter faceplate. I have done listening tests with both black/silver logo and brass logo AR-11s single and two-board crossover versions (and written extensively about them in this forum). They sound equally bad with “out-of-spec” capacitors and equally great with “in-spec” capacitors. I cannot hear any sonic effect of tweeter diffraction foam. I do not claim to be a GESR (golden eared stereo reviewer) either. --…He painted the woofers with some special liquid that restores and reinforces driver cones. This is why they are so shiny. What is your opinion on this? Can this have some influence on the sound, making it different than original (changing resonant frequency or something like that)?...-- I’ve done the same thing on a few woofers I’ve re-foamed. I can’t say I “hear” any difference by doing this. I think it is really not necessary and can’t recommend it as a sonic improvement to the woofer. But, I also don’t think it would significantly change the “sound” of these AR-11s or their value. --…And most important, he is thinking of getting at least 500 Euros for the pair. This is 635 US$. This price seems to be too high to me. What do you think? Do you know what is the average price they usually go for?...— I haven’t monitored AR-11 auctions on e-Bay in a long time. Even so, winning bids vary widely. Things to consider are the condition of the cabinets, condition of the drivers, and whether or not the original foam grills (in good condition) are included. Original boxes and packing materials and documentation can also bring a premium price for a pair of speakers. Regardless of the above, if your friend hasn’t already done so, the capacitors in these AR-11s will most probably need to be replaced. That has to be figured into what one is willing to pay for these speakers. What I think -- $635 is probably what your friend paid for his AR-11s in the ‘70s, assuming he is the original owner. If your friend is selling his AR-11s as pictured, the price seems too high to me too. Mint condition cabinets, re-foamed woofers, with no grills, or other items to go with the speakers, I think $200 US +/- may be closer to a ballpark asking price. But, even that may be an ambitious asking price in the current economic environment. As Steve posted, "Value, like beauty, is indeed in the eye of the beholder,..." Hope this helps. Rich
  13. I received a request from a forum member for some pictures of AR-11 crossovers I rebuilt that are no longer available in my previous postings since the overhaul of the forum. I've attached them here to share with all forum members. Hope they help anyone recapping their AR-11. Rebuilt AR-11 Single board crossover. Original two-board AR-11 crossover. This is the only picture I could still find for this crossover rebuild. The woofer caps are not shown. They are located at the front of the bottom board. This one's for you Klaus Rich
  14. >>I think I'll replace the old caps with some Dayton caps from partsexpress... unless there are any big objections?<< Not an objection, but a warning and a recommendation. I tried using Dayton caps in an AR-90 crossover. I did not like the results at all. To me, they sounded no better than the out of spec original caps when I conducted a subjective listening test of a Dayton recapped AR-90 against an originally capped AR-90. I replaced the Daytons with Solens and North Creek (no longer available) caps and the difference was remarkable. I posted more information on this in this forum way back when I did this. I recommend you buy the Dayton caps if thats what you want to use and recap only one of your AR-11s. Then do your own listening tests comparing the Dayton recapped AR-11 against the originally capped AR-11. If you like what you hear, stick with the Dayton caps. If not, you can return any unused Daytons to Parts Express and try something else. Maybe some of their Solens. The Daytons are relatively small and you might be able to mount them where the original caps are. Solens and others are much bigger and you may have to rearrange things on the crossover board to fit them in.
  15. Besides the mid-bass being replacements on your AR-9s, it looks like the tweeter(s) are also replacements. I'm not sure if they are even AR tweeters from another, later series. The mid-bass driver may be an AR 8 inch driver made by Tonegen for a later series of AR speakers such as the AR-9LS /LSi. When I bought my pair of AR-9s they had the Tonegen 8 inch mid-bass drivers that the previous owner had received from AR to replace his original drivers when the foam had rotted. Keep trying e-Bay for original drivers. I was able to secure a pair of original 8 inchers for my AR-9s a few years ago. Just had to refoam them and had an a pair of all original AR-9s again. Rich
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