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Polishing up AR brass badges


Guest matty g

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Guest matty g

Hi -

The brass logo badges on my 3a speakers are in need of polishing, but I'm not sure what the best way to go about that would be. I'm thinking maybe #000 steel wool or Scotchbrite, but I don't want to erase the paint or damage the finish. The model number and logo is etched in, but I have seen them with the red paint missing in the past and I want to avoid that if possible. Has anyone ever done this or are there any suggestions? Any help much appreciated!

Matt

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Hi -

The brass logo badges on my 3a speakers are in need of polishing, but I'm not sure what the best way to go about that would be. I'm thinking maybe #000 steel wool or Scotchbrite, but I don't want to erase the paint or damage the finish. The model number and logo is etched in, but I have seen them with the red paint missing in the past and I want to avoid that if possible. Has anyone ever done this or are there any suggestions? Any help much appreciated!

Matt

I've used Noxon metal polish on a soft cloth with excellent results. As long as the logo is recessed, it shouldn't be a problem. I've also used Cameo Copper Cleaner (powder) which also worked, but I like the Noxon better as there are no scratches to the finish. The AR logos with flush, painted logos are a problem.

Hope this helps.

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Hi -

The brass logo badges on my 3a speakers are in need of polishing, but I'm not sure what the best way to go about that would be. I'm thinking maybe #000 steel wool or Scotchbrite, but I don't want to erase the paint or damage the finish. The model number and logo is etched in, but I have seen them with the red paint missing in the past and I want to avoid that if possible. Has anyone ever done this or are there any suggestions? Any help much appreciated!

Matt

Hi Matt,

I use 0000 steel wool on badly tarnished badges and then give them a dip in a 50/50 solution of mineral spirits and Minwax Clear Satin Wipe-On Poly. I've seldom had a problem with paint chipping unless it was already occurring.

Roy

post-101150-1202698651.jpg post-101150-1202698666.jpg

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  • 1 year later...

This may be NO help Carl, because I don't know what AR used, but why not try to match the color to an automotive paint and buy one of those little bottles of touch-up paint with the built-in brush? I'll bet nail polish would work, too. It comes in every imaginable shade and like touch up paint, has a built-in brush :blink:

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Can anybody steer me to the red paint used to fill in the engraving on AR3a badges? I've got a nice badge, but much of the red filler is missing.

Who sells it? What's it called? You know, the details.....

Thanks,

Hi Carl,

I've used Testor's paint, sold in very small bottles in hobby shops and craft stores. You can easily mix it to obtain the appropriate shade, and apply it with a small artist's brush (which is also available in the craft store). I believe I thinned it with lacquer thinner. It has been awhile...

Roy

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This may be NO help Carl, because I don't know what AR used, but why not try to match the color to an automotive paint and buy one of those little bottles of touch-up paint with the built-in brush? I'll bet nail polish would work, too. It comes in every imaginable shade and like touch up paint, has a built-in brush :blink:

11-4-09

Dear "JKent", no pun intended, you're 'spot-on' and if that nail polish will last for our ownerships term, however long that will be, then, this method seems to be the best way to go to me, and I 'touched-up' all of my many 'real' cars and either sprayed or brush painted my "AMT" plastic model cars since 1961.

If not then, it'll be RoyC's method. By the way Roy, does "Testors" still make the little cute bottles of terrific paint? I only ask because I actually used many of those little bottles to 'touch-up' all of the plywood and woofer's baskets to finish off my LST's and 3a's front baffle, it worked great when thinned with their thinner and matched perfectly to AR's plywood 'white/black-wash' finish they used to hide their 'misgivings' of quality of 'fit and finish' way back when.

In either case lets show our 'badges' proudly!

I have to say at this point, whatever badges we have, then that will the best ones to wear as we have no others.

FM, a one badge man, or is that a one man badge?

P.S. I still have my government badges mounted on my old military uniform in the closet at mom's and pop's house, the badges the the Navy gave me for just being there and serving! That military suit has been hanging there in proof for over 41 years when I took it off, and it's a little dusty, I might say.

P.S.2, wait a minute, 'badges', "I don't need no stink'in, badges"!

P.S.3, "Vintage AR" sold me the stink'in badges I needed and they were good as the stink'in badges they were originally, besides, I don't need no stink'in badges!

P.S.4, As I recall there were guys in 'boot' who actually bought "Stink'in Badges" they never earned or deserved just to go on 'leave' to appear great to their non-inductee friends and girls just to appear as stink'in 'heros'. As I recall from '69, the girls bought that schtick.

FM, P.S. 5, "Badge", one of the greatest tunes made by "Cream"

P.S. 6. where's "Vern" up there in Canada when I need him, I'm con-'fused' at least he found me somewhat amusing and he never 'badgered' me about my 'AR' silliness.

FM, self proclaimed badged and re-badged CSP's 'chuckles the clown'.

FM, please don't 'badger' me for my AR induced madness. I didn't make the AR speakers I own, I only make sure this defunct company's badge proudly sits on all of my "AR" speakers for all to see as well as their ears should know.

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frankmarsi said:
Dear "JKent", no pun intended

:blink::lol: :lol::lol:

Yes, Frank, Testors is still available in hobby shops and that's another option. I used many of those tiny bottles back in the day--was building "AMT" cars around the same time as you were--still have a trophy for "Best Paint" although ironically, it was a Pactra award (they made the spray cans as you will no doubt recall).

Keep on punnin' unabadgedly :D

Kent

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I clean tarnished brass by rubbing with a cloth dipped in white vinegar and salt, then rub it once or twice a year with another cloth dipped in olive oil. This is an ancient technique for removing tarnish and retarding the formation of new tarnish. I haven't had to repaint any lettering so far, but have filled some minor scratches and nicks in red lettering with a wax touchup stick for wood (cherry color is a good match).

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