AR4x Crossover Rebuild Check

[jviss]

22 minutes ago, JKent said:

23 minutes ago, JKent said:

For the AR grilles don’t bother with messy glue. Use 1/4” stainless staples.

Thanks!  Yes, but I don't think they are stainless.  I saved the original staples from AR, and they are highly magnetic. 

24 minutes ago, JKent said:

Last step after the cloth is attached and pretty tight: spritz it with water from a spray bottle and dry with a hair dryer. It will get nice and taut. 

Great tip!  Thanks! 

 

[jviss]

Just started this thread:

AR4x Grill Cloth Replacement Materials and Process

[jviss]

I just did my first 4x. I found the same layout as @ra.ra documented.  

Replaced the cap with a Dayton 20µF 250V polypropylene film cap. 

I refurbished the pot, which was severely corroded.  I soaked the parts in vinegar for a bit, then had to resort to the Dremel with a tiny nylon brush to clean that center conductor.  Lubed with Deoxit-5 as I couldn't find my dielectric grease.  Works, measures 16Ω total.  

I cleaned the solder off the woofer terminals with solder wick and then fitted push-on spade terminals to the wires to ease assembly.  

The tweeter works now, but it seems a bit weak to me.  Could be the source material I'm playing. 

I'll post pics in a bit. 

 

[jviss]

Two pics.  Note in the first, "as found" pic, there was a strip of butyl rubber, same material as used to seal the woofer to the cab, over the metal clip that holds the pot together:

After update:

I know, it's no big deal, but it was exciting for me!  Ha, ha.  It took me like 5 tries to properly staple those tie wraps for the cap. 

The biggest deal was cleaning the pot: removing the verdigris, polishing the contacts, etc.  Very satisfying when completed.  

Oh, by the way this is speaker serial number FXI76356.  I'm not sure if that third character is the letter "I," or the number "1."  The date code on the woofer is March 13, 1966.

 

 

Edited January 2 by jviss
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