2ax and L-pads

[omni43]

Just started to dig into changing the caps and installing L-pads. I bought the L-pads from Parts Express, 8ohm 15watt, parts #260-248.

I'm looking at the back of the speaker, the concave area where the dials will come out from the inside of the cabinet, and it looks like there is no way that the face plates will fit into that area. I'm wondering if even the 2 dials will fit in that space.

It looks like you would have to cut the faceplate to make it fit into that small space. Does someone have a picture of the back of their speaker with the L-pads installed? Do some not even use the face plates?

Here are some pics of the back of my speaker.

[JKent]

Does someone have a picture of the back of their speaker with the L-pads installed? Do some not even use the face plates?

Right. Forget the faceplate AND the knobs. If you must have knobs use smaller ones.

Here are some Rat Shack knobs that may fit:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3014503&retainProdsInSession=1

this may be what I used:

http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103791&retainProdsInSession=1

I have some that may work--send me a PM with your email if interested and I'll send photos. Not free but cheap.

Kent

[omni43]

Thanks.

[evilc]

Hi, I'm a newbie from the land of Oz, (Australia), and I picked up a pair of AR2ax given to me late last year after my lifelong friend passed away.

These particular speakers were owned by two other people I knew before my friend acquired them around 1978 and they were the first speakers that left an indelible impression of providing a genuine hifi

strong!. They inspired several of my friends including myself to invest in AR18, AR25's & I stepped up to a new pair of AR91's in 1981! ( I unfortunately finally sold them last year after 31 years and still going strong!).

I felt bad about letting them go & was honored to come upon my friends old AR's and set about examining them.

Fired them up with a Melody SP1 valve amp and straight away they sounded uneven in sound to each other with nothing happening from the tweeters and both woofers badly needing new surrounds.

After coming across this forum and digesting a lot of good advice I ordered L-pads, tweeters, Caps & speaker terminals from Parts Express and have been chipping away at restoring them the last month or so when I have time. I was appalled at the miniscule speaker posts and the pots looked very average so decided to replace. I ordered the round speaker post - 2 7/8" Part no.260-283 & drilled a round hole around the old post mount. I then drilled 2 holes on the back for the L-pads 1" shaft, Part no. 260-250 & mounted them on a singular dual face plate, Part no.260-274. I know- deviating considerably from the original and highly sacrilegious to many purists but am happy with the result so far. Have soldered up the bulk of both speakers and next am having the 4 screw mount woofers surrounds replaced.

Having difficulty attaching jpg pics. Any suggestions?. Cheers, Clive.

[JKent]

Welcome Clive!

As you probably know, we have other members from Oz (yes--I know it's a big place!)

We'd love to see pics. When you look at the "Reply to this topic" window below, go to the lower right corner and it says "More Reply Options". Click that. On the next page on the bottom left of the rwply window is a Browse button. You can browse your computer and find the jpg you want to attach. double click it, then be sure to also click "Attach this file" You can repeat for more photos. Best size is about 100KB.

Kent

[evilc]

Have attached photos - will show some more in due course.

I have lightly sanded one cabinet & plan on staining/ sealing shortly

Looking forward to the finish line but the journey sure is very satisfying.

[RoyC]

evilc,

The 25 ohm resistor should be connected between L-pad terminal #1 and #2, not #1 and #3 as shown in your photo.

I often replace the old pots with L-pads due to heavy corrosion issues, but the AR pots are actually not "very average", as you stated above. They are heavier duty (25 watt) and serviceable (within reason) compared to the non-serviceable 15 watt L-pads you are using. It costs around $100 to replace the original 4 pots with modern equivalents vs $20 for the L-pads.

As for those "appalling" speaker posts, they work just fine with ring terminal connectors. Your new posts are very nice and convenient, but don't expect a sonic difference.

Your work looks good, and it is likely you will have a fine pair of 2ax's when your project is finished.

Roy

[evilc]

Hi Roy,( and Kent) thanks for your advice - it has been invaluable to me so far.

I hear what you're saying & I was inferring the pots were poor in terms of corrosion, and decided on replacing after seeing your prior recommendations to invest in the L-pads.

I always use speaker cable with banana plugs so the new posts were too tempting to pass up. Hopefully I'm not compromising too much on the originality issue but gaining on the practicality aspect.

The internal crossover photo was for the first one I tackled - I soldered many wires inside the box which was awkward. The other speaker I have soldered up practically everything together before fitting inside which was much easier and even tidier!.

Glad you pointed out the error with the resistor- I basically copied from a wiring layout download on this forum someone provided.

I did notice when dismantling the second speaker that both pots had been bypassed with a bewildering configuration of three capacitors basically in a row.

Also the woofer wires were both directly connected either side of the coil. This seems to be unusual compared to pics I've seen of AR2ax internals.

Would this have any effect to the woofer?

Cheers, Clive

[RoyC]

Hi Clive,

"Collectors" are very fussy about originality, so if resale is in the mix, new terminals will compromise that aspect of things. OTOH, AR-2ax's are abundant and rarely sought by big spending collectors, so there is no practical reason to worry about the new terminals if they make you happy.

Agreed...L-pads are easily implemented, and a very reliable alternative to badly corroded pots. If you can provide a link to the thread with the incorrect wiring layout we should fix it.

From your description, it seems the woofer coil was placed in parallel (instead of in series) with the woofer, which would certainly have a significant effect on the resulting sound. Someone was really clueless regarding the crossover prior to your ownership. It is always gratifying to see a person like yourself make the old timers "right" again!

Roy

[evilc]

Hi Roy, I am an audio addict but quite unsophisticated in technical terms, so the kudos goes to guys like you who are so incredibly generous to guys like me. I would have wallowed in indecision on how to proceed in restoring these type of speakers without guidance but it has wetted my appetite to tackle other projects, A friend is working on an Econowave project which is awfully tempting to me now so thanks for "igniting the spark"!!

Clive.

[JKent]

Have attached photos - will show some more in due course.

I have lightly sanded one cabinet & plan on staining/ sealing shortly

Looking forward to the finish line but the journey sure is very satisfying.

Very nice work. Neat & workmanlike. Looks like you have the European style cabinets often seen in Oz (speckled paint is the giveaway)>

Looking forward to photos of the finished cabinets!

Kent

[evilc]

I have been wondering what do with one of the midrange drivers as it is missing the wire cage cover & F/glass filling under the cage.

Would appreciate advice on how I should proceed,

Is it only a minor diffraction tweak?

Have made some further progress on the other cabinet & have installed all crossover parts etc.

Just need to get woofers repaired this week & restore cabinets with the Howards R.A.F.

Cheers, Clive