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Info on #24s


special rider

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Hello All-

Please provide specs on the model 24.

I sold my Sixes about two years ago and have been unable to find nice replacements.

Found some 24s on CL, long way to drive. I need to Know cabinet size, driver size and if drivers from model 17s are interchangeable.

What cap values are used?

What are your opinion on these speakers?

I can not access model history.

Your help is greatly appreceated.

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Welcome to the CSP

Here's some info:

Speakers Measure: 18"h x 10-1/2"w x 7-1/2"d,

8" Woofer

3.5" tweeter

crossover:

16uF

8uF

3 ohm resistor

inductor (not sure what value)

There were 2 versions of the 24. They came as part of a compact system, and had RCA jacks on the back. They were also available by themselves, with screw terminals.

Kent

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  • 6 months later...

Are the 24s 4 ohm or 8? I've got some 17s (8 ohm), but am considering getting a clean 24 base unit (no speakers) to form a system.

8 ohm. Should work. Be aware the speaker out jacks on the 24 are RCA.

Kent

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  • 1 month later...

That cap is a double: 16 and 8. So just replace it with 2 caps. You can use any film cap. Madisound sells Carli caps, which are good, inexpensive film caps with low ESR so they are a good replacement. They also sell Solens, which are the ol' standby. You can get Dayton caps from Parts Express. If I were doing it today, I'd probably opt for Erse PEx:

http://www.erseaudio...-Film-Capacitor

and

http://www.erseaudio...-Film-Capacitor

There is also a 3 ohm 7 watt resistor in there, that you should be able to re-use but for 35 cents each, just buy these 10 watt resistors new:

http://www.erseaudio...EWR10-05-3-0-PB

Be sure to do BOTH speakers. Here's a photo of mine--I used a Carli 8uF, a Carli 15uF and paralleled a Dayton 1uF to the 15 to make 16. That's not necessary--I just happened to have the 1uF on hand. The 2nd photo shows the caps and resistor before installation. The black Temple is shown for comparison. Note the red "common" lead to the left, the blue 16uF lead and the bare 8uF lead on the right.

On the new caps, there is red heat-shrink on the leads that get twisted together to form the "common" like the red lead on the Temple cap. The resistor is connected to the "other" lead of the 8uF cap and the other lead on the 16uF corresponds to the blue on the original (hence the blue heat-shrink tubing).

Kent

PS: See Carl's report here on the "ugly" Temple/Callins caps: http://www.classicsp...t=0

John O'Hanlon has written about "why" the red & black PVC caps are really "craps"--has to do with leakage due to poor sealing. Whatever, they're bad. So replace them.

post-101828-0-56107700-1325527474_thumb.

post-101828-0-20975700-1325528193_thumb.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 weeks later...

I've had some 24s pass through here that had thumb screw terminals, not RCA jacks. I think they were made in both configuations.

Yup--see post #2.

I'm quite sure there were both "Model Twenty-Four" and Model Twenty-Four/II" versions.

Kent

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I owned a pair of Model 24s in high school & college. I believe I was told they were the same model as the 22 which was intended for the integrated receiver/turntable package (mine did have thumbscrew terminals).

I also remember that this model used an 8" woofer which was smaller than the model 17. In this regard, the KLH timeline of models on this site would be in error stating that the 24 shared the drivers with the model 17.

BTW. I was also under the impression that the rare model 28 used three sets of the same 8" woofer & 3.5" tweeter as my model 24 had. However I see several mentions of it having used the larger woofer of the model 6 etc. Anyone care to clarify?

These were all wonderful speakers. I only own a pair of model 5s now, but have a garage full of Advents!

Bill

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