Chip Posted July 31, 2010 Report Share Posted July 31, 2010 I read that one can use a single battery cell and hook up the speaker observing the correct polarity and the cone will move forward to the max extent. Then apply the new foam to the cone. This way the foam will not cause the voice coil to go off center. Is this correct procedure?Chip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speaker dave Posted July 31, 2010 Report Share Posted July 31, 2010 This is wrong a couple of ways. You want the surround to be in in a relaxed state, rather than stretched from the cone being way forward, while it dries. You probably couldn't get the glue to stick with the woofer cone that far forward, anyhow, as the surround would be under tension.If the idea is to keep the woofer centered without a shim I would recommend you glue the inner joint first and let it dry, then glue the outter joint and feed a low frequency tone in with enough excursion (say 1/4" peak to peak). slide the surround perimeter a little left then a little right, then up then down. Find where it just starts to rub in each direction and split the difference. This has worked well for me.David Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted August 2, 2010 Report Share Posted August 2, 2010 Hey ChipDon't know what refoam kit you are using. I like MSound. Take a look at the step-by-step instructions here:http://www.citlink.net/~msound/refoam/There are 12 pages and it covers everythingGood luckKent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chip Posted August 2, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 2, 2010 Hey ChipDon't know what refoam kit you are using. I like MSound. Take a look at the step-by-step instructions here:http://www.citlink.net/~msound/refoam/There are 12 pages and it covers everythingGood luckKentKent, good stuff from MSound, about the best explanation I have found so far. I keep reading the stuff and learn something new each time. No, I did not get my foams from MSound, wish I had but the deed is done. I was surprised at the "insistence" to use shims, I can see the necessity. But others have said it is not absolutely necessary. I am inclined to use the shims.I have cleaned off the old foam surround off one speaker so far. It was shot, still there but not doing anything except maybe keeping the cones centered. I have acquire some of Aleene's Tacky glue, many recommend it over general "white glue." Though I have a new supply of Elmers acquired at Wal-Mart for a quarter. I am going to stay away from the hexane based glues (I have had some experience with Hexane in high Altitude explosive chambers, dangerous stuff banned in Great Britain). Ace's Wellbond is just another white glue (aliphalatic glue). So is Tight bond which I use on Radio Control airplanes. Tightbond is generally water proof while the white stuff is not, resistant maybe but not water proof. I have lots of glue brushes - I used them with epoxy applications.And yes, I will dry fit things before I go after it so to speak.Again, thanks for the encouragement and help.Chip Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted August 2, 2010 Report Share Posted August 2, 2010 I'd go with the Aleen's. Roy C, who has more experience with these things than I, said he likes Aleen's too. It may be the same stuff that comes with the MSound kit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shacky Posted August 3, 2010 Report Share Posted August 3, 2010 A great alt to shimming is use of 30 hz signal. I have a CD with 30 hz from JBL kit I bought from Rick Cobb. You affix surround to cone. Then as soon as you glue surround to basket you play 30 hz CD to center the VC/cone. It vibrates and you play this for an hour or so while it dries.Course you have to be set up and ready to go. I usually keep rubbing down the surround to gasket with something blunt like hadle end of exacto knife.Works like a charm! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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