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AR9 cabimet refinish


Guest bluelobster

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Guest bluelobster

I have the drivers out of my new (to me) AR9s and soon they will be off to Millersound. Now I'm looking to spiff up the cabs while they are out.

Any tips, suggestions or advice would be appreciated.

They look to be walnut verneer so I was thinking of sanding with fine steel wool, tack rag then oil finish.

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I have the drivers out of my new (to me) AR9s and soon they will be off to Millersound. Now I'm looking to spiff up the cabs while they are out.

Any tips, suggestions or advice would be appreciated.

They look to be walnut verneer so I was thinking of sanding with fine steel wool, tack rag then oil finish.

I went looking for your answer and found this from Tom Tyson concerning a pair of AR-3s.

"If the speakers are Oiled Walnut and you do refinish, lightly hand-sand (with the grain) with 600-grit sandpaper, or steel wool, then apply coats of either boiled-linseed oil or Watco Danish Satin Oil Finish, wipe off excess after a few minutes, and wipe dry. This will darken the walnut somewhat. After 24 hours, repeat the process. Usually two or three coats will do the trick. When finished, you can then apply furniture paste wax and buff lightly. Under all circumstances avoid high-luster oils such as Tung Oil; these shellac-based varnish oils give the wood an unnatural, high-luster finish. You will want a satin luster for Oiled Walnut.

--Tom Tyson"

I have never tried the Watco finish.

If your cabinets are not in terrible condition, I would suggest the boiled linseed oil method, first. This takes a little patience because the results will get better with repetition (to a point). It doesn't take long to do, you just have to apply (and wipe "dry") the linseed oil a few times over the span of a few days. Each time the cabinets will soak-up a little less oil. I wouldn't sand every time.

KEEP THE LINSEED OIL OFF THE DRIVERS ! I know that goes without saying, but I said it anyway.

Also, a rag soaked in linseed oil is just about the most notorious oily rag there is for "spontaneous" combustion. Don't wad it up and throw it in a corner. If you stuff it into a small, airtight bag (a ziplock sandwich bag, for instance) you limit the available oxygen and prevent the combustion.

If your cabinets are seriously beat-up {or bleached like my mother-in-law's mustache} the linseed oil isn't going to work. If they just have some "lightening" and seem a little dry, then it might. It's certainly safe to try. You won't be burning any bridges. If you stain and wax them sealed, you've burned the linseed oil bridge without a lot of undoing what you already did.

I have never waxed mine. Once every few years I dig the linseed oil out of the storage room and give them a going-over. That seems to be enough.

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I have the drivers out of my new (to me) AR9s and soon they will be off to Millersound. Now I'm looking to spiff up the cabs while they are out.

Any tips, suggestions or advice would be appreciated.

They look to be walnut verneer so I was thinking of sanding with fine steel wool, tack rag then oil finish.

If the cabinets need only a light refinish or refresh, try Howard restor-a-finish in walnut. Easy, cheap and does a very nice job.

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If the cabinets need only a light refinish or refresh, try Howard restor-a-finish in walnut. Easy, cheap and does a very nice job.

I've had very good results with restore-a-finish. Here is a link to their web site. Home Depot (or was it Lowes?) carries their products:

http://www.howardproducts.com/

You can follow with a couple of coats of Watco Danish oil. One method described elsewhere on CSP involves wet sanding with Watco oil and 600 sandpaper, then wiping across the grain to fill in pores and get a smooth finish. Check it out here:

http://members.aol.com/woodinfo1/smothoil.htm

If you want to wax the cabinets, Howards wax-n-feed is a very nice beeswax-based product. Do NOT apply any kind of varnish over Restore-a-finish or Watco Oil (it won't adhere). If you want a slightly harder/glossier finish, try Minwax Antique Oil (this may be used over Howard's and/or Watco). Good luck!

Kent

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I have the drivers out of my new (to me) AR9s and soon they will be off to Millersound. Now I'm looking to spiff up the cabs while they are out.

Any tips, suggestions or advice would be appreciated.

They look to be walnut verneer so I was thinking of sanding with fine steel wool, tack rag then oil finish.

Hi there;

You might as well read AR's speaker finishing sheet, here is a copy of it.

AR had a list of various literature to send you, just for the asking, this was one of them.

It should really be in the AR library for reference.

Do not rub steel wool or sandpaper across the woodgrain, only with the grain.

I would not use steel wool in case of very fine pieces being left on the surface and rusting, if left un-checked.

Cheese cloth would be the rag of choice, it's lintless.

It is good practice to rub stain, oil or wax type finish across the grain to get the first pass deeper into the grain, thereafter with the grain.

Disposing of boiled linseed oil soaked rags, in particular, but not limited to, into a bucket or bag of water would not be a bad idea, in the interest of safety.

A soaked rag with boiled linseed oil can naturally start combustion, while you are not around of course.

The date on this sheet will tell you how old that advice is.

There is other finishing materials and techniques that others can advise you of.

post-101040-1201844278.jpg

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Vern's refinishing sheet brings up a good point. Not all "oiled" cabinets are oiled. A lot of the radios, components, and some speakers were lacquered. I've been using chemical stripper (CitriStrip). Follow that by scraping off the residue, then clean with steel wool soaked in mineral spirits. Then, just to be sure everything is evenly stripped I use Howard's Restor-a-Finish with steel wool. After that, see my suggestions above.

Of course, your original idea: "sanding with fine steel wool, tack rag then oil finish" may work just fine! ;)

Good luck

Kent

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Vern's refinishing sheet brings up a good point. Not all "oiled" cabinets are oiled. A lot of the radios, components, and some speakers were lacquered. I've been using chemical stripper (CitriStrip). Follow that by scraping off the residue, then clean with steel wool soaked in mineral spirits. Then, just to be sure everything is evenly stripped I use Howard's Restor-a-Finish with steel wool. After that, see my suggestions above.

Of course, your original idea: "sanding with fine steel wool, tack rag then oil finish" may work just fine! ;)

Good luck

Kent

Hi,

You have plenty of great suggestions on how to refinish your AR 9's. I'll throw in my .02 and really confuse you. I have refinished many speaker cabinets as well as furniture and I have found the following process to be the best.

First, the deciding factor is how bad the finish is to start. If there is a poly or shellac finish (which there should't be) it needs to be stripped off.

Once down to the wood veneer surface, you need to evaluate how deep are the scratches and imperfections (ie stains)

If they are bad, start with 100 grit sandpaper, then 150 then 200, then 320. I agree with the earlier post, I almost never use steel wool. it tends to find its way in the grain. Use a sanding block, always sand with the grain and always check to make sure you do not sand through the veneer. The AR veneers are pretty thick.

If there are no scratches you can skip the heavier papers and start with 200 or 320. If the finish is clear of any imperfections you can go on to the next process.

Once I have the surface smooth and dust free (tack cloth) I use a clean soft rag and Watco Danish Oil to flood a surface. Now, this next step is key: I then use 320 waterproof sand paper and WET SAND the oil with the grain. This creates a slurry paste of dust and oil. Next, take a clean soft rag and wipe AGAINST the grain and remove all of the paste. Don't worry if you miss some. This procedure fills all voids and open grain to leave you with a glass like finish. Let dry over night.

The next day take your dry 320 paper and lightly sand with the grain. Make sure all dust is removed. With a clean cloth apply your second coat of Watco. Let dry overnight. Lightly sand with 320. Repeat process. Three coats usually does the trick, but you are only wet sanding the first time.

After dying overnight, I use a high quality furniture wax and apply like you're waxing a car. The finish is like glass, with a rich glow and patina.

I have refinished many things over the years, but this process gives the best results. Good Luck!

Regards,

Joe

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I have refinished many things over the years, but this process gives the best results. Good Luck!

Regards,

Joe

My experience is quite similar to Joe's. I first saw the wet sanding method Joe describes on the Constantine website (written by Sal Marino) many years ago. It is available at:

http://www.woodworking.com/wwtimes_oilfinish.cfm

Wood restoration and finishing choices are as plentiful as speaker choices; however, this technique of wet-sanding with the Danish oil has served me well. As Sal Marino notes, it does not work with all woods, but works very well on walnut.

Cheers,

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I have the drivers out of my new (to me) AR9s and soon they will be off to Millersound. Now I'm looking to spiff up the cabs while they are out.

Any tips, suggestions or advice would be appreciated.

They look to be walnut verneer so I was thinking of sanding with fine steel wool, tack rag then oil finish.

Hi again;

You've been given some very fine advice here.

Suggestions as to what and where to find other information as well.

One more thing I should suggest.

When using sandpaper, do not use your bare hand as a backboard.

Also, there is rubber handheld backboards, that are in my opinion, too small for this type finish, but still better than barehands.

A piece of hardwood, about 5" x 10", will give a better flat surface support and will not allow the sandpaper to groove into the very thin veneer as easy.

A few careless strokes of sandpaper and you are through the veneer. OOPS!

When I did re-finish my first damaged pair of AR-LST's, I followed the AR speaker refinish sheet instructions exactly for oil walnut and I am really pleased with the end results.

Yes, I did use steelwool for that job.

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