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EPI 100 crossover


Guest charlevoix
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Guest charlevoix

Where can I find replacment crossovers for my EPI 100's? Or can I refurbish the ones I have? Mine have the tweeter level control, but I could do without.

I love these speakers, having owned them since 1972. I replaced the woofers (direct from EPI)in 1985, not knowing I could have replaced only the surrounds. This time it's new surrounds and crossover repair or replacement.

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Guest jameskz

I have a pair of EPI model 100's for sale. They have the original woofers. The surrounds could use new foam, but they are intact. The crossovers do not have any level controls.

jameskuz@gmail.com

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Guest bill18018

At the risk of being accused of spamming....I build crossovers for EPI 100s and other models that are very well reviewed. You can check my site at www.tributeaudio.com Bill

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  • 3 weeks later...

>At the risk of being accused of spamming....I build

>crossovers for EPI 100s and other models that are very well

>reviewed. You can check my site at www.tributeaudio.com

>Bill

I'll vouch for Bill's XOs, and say that Carl does good work, too.

But the EPI 100 ONLY used a 10uF cap. The Daytons from PE, or Solens, will work quite well. Bill's new XO gives you new caps, greatly improved wiring, and MUCH better binding posts (but no pot for the tweeter).

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  • 2 weeks later...

My 100s don't have a level control. I'm not sure what year they date from. They are the sealed box, acoustic suspension design which I regard as the more 'pure' version. I have always read that the crossover in the 100 is very simple, maybe just one capacitor, as Carl says, but maybe they changed it, especially if the company changed hands. In the 80s such companies as Epos made a big deal out of having such a simple crossover, and gave this feature a lot of credit for the transparency of their speakers. EPI founder/designer Winslow Burhoe has a website, or did last time I checked, where he posts answers questions such as yours. He might have replacement parts too, since this speaker is a classic and has a bit of a following. You might try googling his name or "silentspeakers" which is what he calls his latest desighs.

Best,

Peter

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  • 7 months later...
  • 8 years later...
On 12/31/2006 at 9:51 PM, Carlspeak said:

The last pair I worked on had only one 4.7uF cap.

Order a MMPP cap from Parts Express.

It's all about the music

Carl

Carl's Custom Loudspeakers

Did you mean 4.7 or 10 uf cap? EPI 100s never used 4.7 uf caps as far as I know?????

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Yes, it is well-documented that the EPI-100 normally employed a single 10uF cap, but I believe there have been odd situations where original 8uF caps were found in this model, but the 4.7uF does not sound right. The earlier 100's normally had a rotary control for the tweeter output which was eliminated in subsequent iterations. Just about the simplest crossover ever. 

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  • 1 month later...

Charlevioux,

You'll get the most noticible difference from just changing the capacitor. It can be simple and satisfying to do. Some general steps:

1) remove woofer being very careful with the screwdriver, they can slip and poke a hole in the cone.

2) wearing a dust mask and gloves remove fiberglass and put into plastic garbage bag. Use a separate bag for each speaker so the same quantity goes back into each speaker.

3) Cut out old 10 uf capacitor, cut right next to capacitor to leave as much wire to connect the new capacitor. Remove old capacitor. Either solder or use wire nuts to connect up new capacitor. There is no direction for the capacitor. I believe I soldered one end because the lead was short. 

4) secure new capacitor by gluing in place with silicone sealant by placing a glob under capacitor, or use a zip tie and zip tie anchor.

Let silicone dry. At this point you can hook up woofer and place in hole with a couple screws to ensure you have good connections, or just put it back together.

Daytons are nice caps, personally I would spend a little more considering the effort. I like Clarity Cap and Sonicap. I've done swapping tests and can tell a difference, and there are people who will state it makes no difference at all. Certainly replacing the old cheap electrolytic capacitor with a new film capacitor with whatever brand will improve the sound. 

Enjoy

 

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Ha! Thanks, I'll check next time. It was on the top of the list so I thought it was recent.

While I'm here, I'm currently working on a pair of epi 100's that I recapped two years ago. I'm gifting them, but wanted to refinish them to remove some water stains.

Unfortunately I had to sand to remove the water rings/stains. That removed the rich deep brown color of the epi's. This forced me to sand all four sides and stain. I used Minwax dark walnut. They've turned out nice but I prefer the original deep brown color which was uniform over the cabinets. I'm seeing more variation in the color of the grain now. Bottom line is approach refinishing with a less can be more. If I was to do it again, I'd try cleaning with a wood cleaner, and at first lightly sanding the ring area and staining just that part. Then do a full on sand if it can't match.

These also had the rubber woofer surrounds which I noticed had a crack or two, so I've removed the rubber surrounds and need to refoam next.

I may also install a wood brace I've heard mentioned, from the back to the Front, aligning with the top woofer screw. 

cheers,

mark

 

 

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  • 2 months later...

Hello all. New here, but rebuilt a pair of EPI 100Vs last year. Got lots of information/inspiration from Huw Powell's HumanSpeaker site. Refoamed the woofers, braced the cabinet, replaced the fiberglass with polyfill, rebuilt the crossover and plate (simple10uf capacitor, new binding posts and slightly heavier wire). Then went a bit further--stripped off the vinyl (easy with a hair dryer to heat it up), filled all the little dings and banged corners, and covered it with tropical birds-eye veneer--real wood. Redid the grills with linen grill cloth and put some EPI badges on them. Love the sound--and gave them to my daughter. I am working on a set of Genesis IIs right now and listen to a stripped-down-box set of KLH Model Tens in the garage that I'll reveneer soon. (Of course that was the plan five years ago when I bought them.) Looking forward to reading and learning about more of these classics here.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Simple crossover and new binding posts on masonite plate for 100v.First pic shows original.

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Audyn 10uf cap and binding posts from Parts Express. Foam gasket from left-over packing stuck with double-sided tape. Held in place inside by four screws. Outside covered in birds-eye veneer for bling factor. Box also braced front to back while I had it open.

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  • 2 years later...
  • 1 month later...

Bought raw Birdseye veneer from ebay. I'd probably use a paper back veneer for future projects--it will lay flatter and tear out less easily. I stripped the vinyl with help of an old hair dryer.  L1130356.thumb.jpg.824cab7ab409aa72e20a3584b5172c01.jpg

I filled the edge dings with wood putty then cut sheets of veneer for the sides--a bit over-sized for margin of error. Using contact cement, apply to both the box surface and the back of the veneer, let dry, then place on the edge. Wax paper between the two will let you place it, then slowly withdraw it as you roll down the veneer with a rubber roller or edge of your hand. Don't try to move it once both glued surfaces contact each other.L1130347.thumb.jpg.4d99c75e086241f8fc2c1c780efec84d.jpg

 

After doing the large surfaces I mitered strips for the front and thin strips for the inside of the front.L1130358.thumb.jpg.d5f646d2b9f8d185f4b5fd81f34c9072.jpg

 

Some Minwax stain and tung oil for the final coats, a new grill, and some badges off eBay and they were ready to give away.L1130359.thumb.jpg.ab7b2949165a44cb534e9b1914b5672a.jpgL1130362.thumb.jpg.f14d232506d6dc1cdd3f139195c5a2f0.jpgL1130379.jpg.0c83bdb5ea72c1df74a4801ce9c8cb54.jpg

The grill cloth is a material called Aida cloth, a cotton/linen fabric used for cross stitching. It is available at craft and fabric stores in several colors and weave textures.

 

I've done a number of restorations since, built a kit from Parts Express, and refoamed a number of drivers. I'm now into turntable repairs, and I find working on classic stereo gear immensely rewarding.

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