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12 hours ago, genek said:

Here in the US, the replacements probably cost the same or less than rebuilds. The only explanation I can think of for this is our lack of a VAT.

I meant the repair with those cheap aliexpress vc and charging top dollar, without batting, xo mod or measurements vs acknowledged replacement parts from the US. The difference imho was too little. I would go all the way out and simply order from USA.

Luckily for me i certain have skills 😁

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8 hours ago, Andre_Db66 said:

I meant the repair with those cheap aliexpress vc and charging top dollar, without batting, xo mod or measurements vs acknowledged replacement parts from the US. 

Well, as you have probably already concluded from your experience so far, there's probably nobody in the US choosing that kind of repair over replacement parts. I don't think I've ever seen anybody even offer to repair AR tweeters this way. Not even on eBay

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On 6/24/2024 at 11:45 PM, RoyC said:

-It is impossible to provide specific crossover and attenuation suggestions to accommodate unknown response differences between the original and your rebuilt tweeters...much less your preferences. Once you get your tweeters functional, start by using everything "as is" to begin with.

-The best way to determine your preferred level setting for your rebuilt tweeter is to set up level controls outside the cabinet, and measure the series and parallel resistance values of your preferred setting. You can then replace those values with fixed resistors. You can also try out different capacitor and inductor values in this way.

-It should also be noted that the short-lived AR-3a Improved departed the most from the other iterations.

 

The referenced limited schematic its intended purpose was to use it for my set of limited drivers which are now driven by an ar3a xo. That was my question actually. Not to ask if this template was a good starting point for the disassembled tweeter with china vc. Maybe i was not entirely clear.

IMG-20240630-WA0000.thumb.jpeg.4312ef1eb99da7515011d799d51a4676.jpegScreenshot_20240630-212148_Marktplaats.thumb.jpg.c512f271f3633658ec662697ed4df046.jpg

I have a set of badges and found original improved xo to convert my 3a to improved eliminating the first set of pots. These 3a have original drivers so all this should work. Last step would then be to facilitate a limited xo for the limites drivers taking out the original pots from the equation.

In the end i have all the necessary working drivers and only experience trouble with the pots. The tinkering with vc will move to a later stadium.

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2 minutes ago, genek said:

Well, as you have probably already concluded from your experience so far, there's probably nobody in the US choosing that kind of repair over replacement parts. I don't think I've ever seen anybody even offer to repair AR tweeters this way. Not even on eBay

I do think that is understandable as you have the wiser alternative. I was however under the impression there is plenty of forum attenders from the EU or at the very least readers....

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On 6/29/2024 at 3:53 PM, Andre_Db66 said:

How so...? If using a vc other than oem in an original tweeter is another tweeter then i am confused. You are saying any replacement will do, disregarding fitting issues, brand, just as long as it measures the same. Up to the point where you place a tweeter on top of a cabinet with wires sticking out out behind the original. I do not find that an option. No add on external super tweeter will do for me combined with a classic. Like people who think it is necessary to place a super tweeter on top of a classic Tannoy. That is not for me. Someone who does that clearly is not satisfied with the classic at hand, this is simply how it sounds.

The issue is to fix the tweeter, preferably not altering the initial behaviour too much and if so, only in a postive way. Leaving the structure of the cabinet alone. That is why i oppose the HiVi solution even if the sonical result is accepted widespread.

I have seen plenty botched AR speakers on craigslist with different mids, woofers or tweeters. It is rape and doesnt sell, only at the value of the remainder drivers left alone in the cabinet. I for one let them pass. I could however be fooled if a tweeter has the fit and markings of AR on them. If they sound good i would be foolish enough to buy them...

You are VERY confused about what I said, and what I did. Purposefully? Could be. 

Using AR mechanics (face plate, gap, magnet) and putting a different VC+dome in it results in a different tweeter. Yes! It does. The fact that you don’t understand this is part of why you are so confused. The tweeter assembly is a motor *system*. The heart of the system is the moving components. Dome material, VC have a great deal to do with the sound/performance. Changing them changes the sound/performance. That’s why AR aficionados don’t want changes, and won’t pay top price for substitutes. Much like putting passenger car tires on an Indy Race Car; driveable, but not the same.

You are *extremely* confused regarding my testing of drivers (mid-tweets and tweets) on top of the cabinet! Those aren’t “super tweeters” there to “augment” the sound of the original drivers. The original drivers were *taken out of circuit, disconnected*.  The drivers I was testing were wired *in place of, instead of* the original drivers, but powered from the original XO connections. This allowed me to *audition* the different driver using the original XO. The original drivers in place keep the cabinet sealed while I listen to, audition, the different drivers. It’s educational. Experimental. Doesn’t alter the original AR cabinet, nor original drivers in any way.

 

 

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And yes….. I have the original drivers to compare to. Otherwise, the comparisons are not educational and pretty much worthless. 

Not really “to each his own”, either. Without properly working original drivers, any efforts to “repair”, “replace”, even “refurbish” are fruitless. 

Your efforts to replace the VC+Dome is fruitless without a properly working original driver to use for comparison. Again, yes, changing the VC+Dome changes the character, sound, performance of the original driver. That’s why there are so many varieties of tweeters out there; titanium, beryllium, paper, silk, composite, aluminum, hybrids.

Just throwing out offhanded comments isn’t helpful, either. “Each his own” doesn’t elevate the learning process.

From your response, your “confusion” has been intentional on your part. 

I tried to be clear about what I was doing, how, and why. 

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If continued like this, there is a risk this thread ends in the kitchen.

For general educational purposes i do not think that is particularly fruitfull.

Within this thread my contribution regarding the topic has been very on point as i am not reluctant to experiment with given vc. It is all very irrelevant by now if this changes the tweeter, that has been established. Workable solution to anyone, that is a subjective matter.

I have yet to discover a post from someone else within this thread which describes a twin experiment with tips and tricks.

I am ending my input here...

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The reason I say that changing the VC+Dome changes the sound, is that I’ve done so many. It changes the sound. The ones I’ve replaced and was able to recreate the sound of the original, aren’t of interest in here. But they took some real work, and attention to detail.

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