What's the best oil to use on teak cabinets?

[Guest watson]

Posted earlier about a blown midrange on my new (new to me!) AR3 speakers. I really want these speakers to look as good as possible when I'm finished. I want to condition the cabinets because they've lost their shine. What brand/type of oil would you suggest I use? I believe the cabinets are teak. Thanks for your help!

Vance

[onplane]

If it's really teak, then I'd recommend Teak Oil.

You can get it at any marine store (West Marine, Boat US, etc.)

I just keep applying on successive days until the wood stops absorbing. Then a LIGHT coat every 3 months.

That stuff is amazing. I just can't tell you how good it works on my boat.

Regards,

Jerry

[tysontom]

>Posted earlier about a blown midrange on my new (new to me!)

>AR3 speakers. I really want these speakers to look as good as

>possible when I'm finished. I want to condition the cabinets

>because they've lost their shine. What brand/type of oil would

>you suggest I use? I believe the cabinets are teak. Thanks

>for your help!

>

>Vance

Vance,

Can you post an image of your AR-3s? Although it doesn't matter if it's Oiled Teak or Oiled Walnut, the oil finish process is basically the same. Oiled Teak is somewhat rare on AR-3s, so it is more likely that the cabinets are Walnut or even Cherry. Cherry finishes are different, of course.

Most owners use boiled-linseed oil according to AR's instructions or a similar oil such as Watco Danish Oil. There is a method to that process that will insure that you do not end up with something overly shiny and boat-like. In the end you will want a satin-type luster, not a high-gloss, teak hand-rail type of finish. You don't want the speaker to look as though it were varnished; you want it to look like a fine piece of furniture, so a high luster is usually undesireable. I believe that the re-finish process is posted in the AR library somewhere; you could also do a search on the forum to find where we have commented on this process previously.

--Tom Tyson

[Carlspeak]

>Posted earlier about a blown midrange on my new (new to me!)

>AR3 speakers. I really want these speakers to look as good as

>possible when I'm finished. I want to condition the cabinets

>because they've lost their shine. What brand/type of oil would

>you suggest I use? I believe the cabinets are teak. Thanks

>for your help!

>

>Vance

Before you go applying oil to the cabinets, I suggest you clean them up using a refinishing solution (like Formsby's) applied with #0000 steel wool. This will remove any old wax and/or polish, paint spots and varnish, if any. Follow the instructions. I tend to rub lightly in the direction of the grain. When you're done, the veneer will look very dull but also very clean.

For the oiling step, I agree with Tom's recommendation to not over-oil, which will leave a varnished look. Use a mixture of boiled linseed oil and terpentine (to help penetration) whilst following the boiled linseed oil insturctions for dry time before buffing. IF you put the boiled linseed oil on full strength and let it dry, you will get a hard overly-lustrous finish that will not emulate the classic AR look. I have also used Teak Oil for some of my customers with success as well using the same basic procedure.

It's all about the music

Carl

Carl's Custom Loudspeakers

[dynaco_dan]

Hi Vance;

I posted the AR cabinet refinishing sheet that AR mailed me decades ago in the, AR forum, pretty certain, as a jpg file.

It is just one page and covers all of the wood veneer finishes that AR used and how to basicly restore their finish again.

At the moment I can only suggest going way back and looking up my name and you'll find that cabinet re-finishing file.

The information is also valid for other brands, not just AR speakers.

[Guest matty g]

Vance -

If you clean/re-oil the cabs I would NOT recommend using steel wool unless the drivers are out of the cabinets and far away from the finishing area. The magnets in those are MUCHO GRANDE and one filing from the steel wool in the wrong place can ruin your whole project.

For what it's worth I have had good results with Formby's Tung Oil, but mind how you "knock it back" in between coats. A micro fiber rag can give very good results and there is no metal filing issue. You probably already know this, but mind how close to your TV set you put them. They love gaussing up picture tubes, even on newer sets that auto-degauss on start up (actually I guess that's very old technology, now). Anyways, just thought I'd throw my 3 cents in.

Take Care

Matt

[Guest watson]

Lot's of great information here and I appreciate all of the feedback. I'm going to try to attach a picture so that maybe you can help me figure out if I have walnut, teak or cherry. Let's see if this attachment works.

Vance

1907.txt

[dynaco_dan]

Hi Vance;

They appear to be oiled walnut to me.

Beautiful pair of speakers.

[JKent]

FYI--You should be able to get Teak Oil in a good hardware store--no need to go to a marine supply (where they probably get top dollar). I happen to like Teak Oil for speaker and radio cabinets, and I "think" I read somewhere it is basically just boiled linseed oil (don't quote me on that). There's quite a bit of discussion in these pages about refinishing. Just DON'T sand much--veneer is THIN!

If you search a bit, there was a writeup about "wet sanding" with Watco oil to get a smooth finish. Basically, after the sanding you wipe across the grain, so some of the slurry you've created fills in the grain, scratches, pin holes etc.

Good luck!

[tysontom]

>Lot's of great information here and I appreciate all of the

>feedback. I'm going to try to attach a picture so that maybe

>you can help me figure out if I have walnut, teak or cherry.

>Let's see if this attachment works.

>

>Vance

Vance,

I'm 100% sure that your AR-3s are Oiled Walnut, not Teak. Those cabinets look quite good, and you can go through the re-finishing process that will result in a beautiful patina once finished. You can also get 600-grit sandpaper (a very fine grit) and lightly sand the cabinet all over, being very careful to hand-sand with a sanding block (if possible) in the direction of the grain. Be careful when sanding around the corners and edges. Never, ever use an orbital sander. Applying multiple coats of boiled-linseed oil, possibly diluted with thinner to make it absorb better, will work great. Watco Danish Oil is also excellent. After applying each coat, allow to penetrate for 15 minutes or so, then carefully wipe off any excess oil; then allow the coat to dry overnight. Do this for about three coats. Using 600-grit sandpaper will really only knock down the "grain," and it will not dig into the wood. It will make it very smooth and help to avoid the "graininess" sometimes prevalent with oil finishes. Always be sure to wipe off access and do not over-apply the oil as it will become shiny. Tung Oil is not really suitable for this type finish, and will invariably get shiny as it sometimes contains small quantities of varnish, shellac or other properties that give it such a durable finish, but which make this oil a less-than-ideal choice for furniture oil finishes.

--Tom Tyson

[Guest matty g]

Vance -

Those are in beautiful condition. I think Tom has the best method for bringing them up to suff, and that's the way I'm going to do my AR5's when I finally get around to it. I must agree that tung oil does leave them a little on the shiny side, and may not be the best choice for a "factory finish".

Very nice speakers,Vance!

Matt

[dynaco_dan]

Hi there;

I just want to add to Tom's fine advice.

Tom mentions using a sanding block with the sandpaper and that is an excellent idea.

Even if you have a soft touch and try sanding freehand your fingertips can cause grooves in the veneer quickly.

A block of wood or equal will also give you the best sharp edges.

If you haven't found the AR speaker re-finishing sheet please speak up, it is meant as guidance for novices not experts.

It does offer a technique for the amatuer.

I just went to the AR forum and did a search on, "refinishing".

Up came topic #5189, "Refinishing your AR speaker", from June 15, 2004.

That contains the sheet, dated Dec/65, from AR that I received back in the sixties.

AR had a whole list of literature just for the asking back then.

I went back to my computer and downloaded the file, it's a duplicate.

I love being able to return and edit for a period of time.

Save the file to your computer, it does printout ok.

Heed the safety caution regarding used rags, also flame and vapour consideration.

[JKent]

Here's the article I was referring to. SKIP STEP 1! The rest should be helpful.

http://members.aol.com/woodinfo1/smothoil.htm

[Pappas3278]

Here's the article I was referring to. SKIP STEP 1! The rest should be helpful.

http://members.aol.com/woodinfo1/smothoil.htm

Great article. But why would I want to skip step 1? I need to get some crap (scuffs and spots of white paint) off before I start with the oil.

No?

[Mexicomike]

When I restored my 1968 AR3as I used linseed oil to put them as close to "as originally delivered" as I could. Per the AR guidelines (which I followed) 3 coats of Linseed oil with light sanding between coats did the job and they look almost like they just came out of the box!

[JKent]

Great article. But why would I want to skip step 1? I need to get some crap (scuffs and spots of white paint) off before I start with the oil.

No?

Hi

Of course if you MUST sand, do. But veneer is thin and too much sanding will be disastrous. Here are a couple of other things I've found work well:

1. If the finish is really bad, use a chemical stripper. I like the orange citrus stripper they sell in Home Depot and elsewhwere. Not to harsh--not too smelly. I have not had a problem with it attacking the veneer glue.

2. If the finish isn't too bad, try Howard's Restor-a-Finish. I love this stuff! You apply it with 0000 steel wool and it evens out the finish, hides scratches. It will even soften some old paint and you can scrape it off. You CANNOT apply varnish over it, but you CAN apply an oil such as Watco Danish or, for a slightly glossier finish, Minwax Antique Oil. OR--just apply Howard's excellent beeswax-based wax. I especially like Howard's Restor-a-Finish because it does not remove any wood and it is not a harsh chemical like Formbys (personally I hate the Formby's finish "restorer"). Howard's was developed specifically for restoring antique furniture.

Here is a link for Howard's. I found it in Home Depot, although not all the colors.

http://www.howardproducts.com/company.asp

Good luck!

Kent

[genek]

Great article. But why would I want to skip step 1? I need to get some crap (scuffs and spots of white paint) off before I start with the oil.

Lots of good advice about how to refinish if necessary, but before I even consider doing that, the first thing I do is clean the wood and determine whether refinishing is really needed at all. In the majority of cases, even if the surface is grungy and dull, buffing it out with a scotchbrite pad (the modern equivalent of steel wool and 100% nonmagnetic around speakers) soaked in lemon oil will remove grease, dirt, paint (if really bad, try some citrisolv on the gunk) and put a lustre back into the original finish. The only times I've found it necessary to resort to sanding, staining or reapplying finishing oil is if there is water staining, uneven sun fading, wear-through down to bare wood or physical damage that has to be repaired and concealed. Oiled wood finishes are a lot more long-lived than most people give them credit for.