GD70
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Posts posted by GD70
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On January 14, 2020 at 10:54 PM, DavidR said:
Glenn is a wizard when it comes to cabinet restorations. His advice helped me save a pair of AR9s that had water damaged MDF and veneer lifting.
Thanks David!
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Yeah!
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Tough call. They are difficult to find, and expensive. I would personally hold onto it as a backup. The tweeters are much easier to get, so save up for their rebuild.
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On March 21, 2020 at 3:28 PM, Gr3grs said:
So I sanded the cabinet and applied mineral spirits. I was having a very difficult time removing the stain. I only got a very small amount off. I did some additional sanding and then applied danish oil. It’s not exactly where I would have liked it to be, but I suppose it is a bit better than it was before. Thank you guys for your help so far.
Far better than before. Nice work.
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I found the easiest way to remove the woofers in AR speakers is to remove all the sealer putty around the basket edges and cab gap. Then you can get a wide blade screw driver under the basket edge and start prying it upward. Use a putty knife between the baffle and screw driver to protect the baffle from the screw driver as you pry the woofer loose. Once you break that seal, it will lift out easily. Notice that greenish color on the magnet? Don't touch it, or breath any dust from it. I would wipe it with wet paper towels before removing it from the cabinet.
Glenn
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If those were mine, I'd completely, carefully sand the cab to the veneer surface. Then apply Watcos Danish natural color oil. The vintage veneer will darken, and usually will absorb 5 wipe on applications, I never paint it on, but wipe it on with cut up cotton t-shirts or an old sock. The veneer will absorb the first two applications almost immediately. Allow each application 24 hours to dry, then hand sand with 600 grit. I do this between each application.
Good luck, Glenn
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Beautiful 3s you have there!
Someone did a pretty sloppy job trying to bridge the leads. I'd remove the added wires and replace them with a single strand. You could use copper strands from untwisted speaker wire, pull a couple strands for your repair. Give yourself plenty extra to work with. When you join the copper and aluminum lead, be very careful as the aluminum is very fragile. Carefully make a little hook at the end of the aluminum wire, and a hook with the copper wire that has extra to wrap around the aluminum wire. You can try to solver it together, but definitely wrap with electrical tape. Then solder the other end of the copper wire to the terminal strip. Just heat up the old aluminum solder and remove before resoldering the copper wire with traditional solder.
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19 hours ago, JKent said:
Thanks Glenn
Beautiful, meticulous work on those 12s.
I'll have to rethink the frames. A friend cut some poplar for me, .75" x 1.5". That may not work. Back to the drawing board.
Kent
Thanks Kent, and I'm sure yours will look great when you're finished.
Glenn
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18 hours ago, genek said:
I'd want to use a softwood. Easier to drive staples into without splitting the wood.
Yup, that's why I went with pine. Easy to cut, easy to staple into, and still plenty strong.
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19 hours ago, Pete B said:
I think .75" square poplar cut with the bevel might look better being less bulky looking than Glen's.
But of course measure first to be sure that everything fits and clears.
I was after the original look.
What ever style, and cut that's decided on, leave at least 1/8th clearance all sides to account for the grill cloth.
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Hey Kent!
Pics are in my thread here on CSP.
I used 1 inch square pine, cut the 45 degree bevel cut, leaving a 1/4 inch top and side surfaces remaining.
Fabric from PE.
Cheers, Glenn
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On March 3, 2020 at 12:11 AM, genek said:
The original finish was a penetrating oil with a catalyzed drier; no topcoat. Watco is penetrating oil blended with varnish that will have a topcoat. Watco will also dry glossy compared to the original matte finish. You'll need to dull it if you're intending to match the original look.
Watcos doesn't dry glossy unless you apply many wet coats beyond what the veneer can absorb.
All my cab restorations have used Watcos, and all have a nice matt/satin finish. Usually five applications is all the veneer will absorb.
When I apply the oil, I wipe it on with an old sock, or cut up t-shirt. I never apply so much that I need to wipe away extra each application.
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Impressive work! Great to see and read your process, and success!
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When I replaced the surrounds, I removed as much of the original glue as possible with a small plastic putty knife. As I slowly, and gently scrape the glue from the surface, I have a finger on the underside of the cone to support it as I scrape. I do not attempt to completely remove it, so I don't damage the cone edges. After I removed the glue with the scraper, I use my fingers to rub off more if possible, and to smooth the cone surface so the new surround will have a smooth surface to glue to. It's ok if there's a bit of the original glue remaining on the cone surface.
Glenn
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Hi Kent!
Nice work on the cabs! Don't be daunted by the grill frames and new fabric.
I would make them like I did on my 12s, if you're after the original look with the beveled edges.
The grills took me two days to complete.
Cheers, Glenn
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I hope you're successful! Member Chris1this1 is rebuilding these tweeters with great success.
When I got my LST-2's, all 6 tweeters were dead. No one was repairing them at that time. I replaced them with the HiVi Q1Rs recommended by Roy C. With some minor crossover mods, they sound fabulous!
Good luck, and keep us posted as you progress.
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Hi All,
Heres the link to the next Audio Blue Mountain Lodge meet.
Hope some of you in the area can attend. The last gathering was terrific.
Cheers, Glenn
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13 minutes ago, Chris1this1 said:
Hey Glenn, I was about to ask you where you got the Saran from, you beat me to it, thanks. The mids have been taken care of, agreed, they were useless prior. Believe it or not, the LST’s are currently shelved, in the back room but still wired to the amp. They were removed from the main room due to the sheer size and non optimal placement, in a room much smaller then they were intended for. It made the room look crowded and having 3a’s take their place, and now 3’s, I do not feel I am missing anything due to the room constraints and it seems the smaller speakers compliment the room better aesthetically. Sonically, when I went from the LST’s to 3a’s in that location, I didn’t perceive anything was missing, but with the 3’s taking the place of the 3a’s, I notice some differences throughout the entire spectrum. Everything felt quicker and faster to respond. Also and another thing... I noticed a similar effect when I switched to the Fisher 400c preamp. To describe this, I can attempt to say that a certain compression was lessened, and there was more “contrast” to the sound, like the “black background” was moved further away.
I feel it’s probably less speaker related and more synergy with the amp at this point, but I am still figuring it out.
Anyway, I am planning on attending the Peekskill meet, and up in the air with what to demo.
Chris
Hi Chris,
Glad to hear you plan to come to the next Lodge meet!
If you decide to bring your 3's, I'll bring mine. I've compared mine to other 3as, and always preferred the 3's. My other set need Roys attention on the mids, and pots cleaned again.
The LSTs are imposing. In a room like yours the 3's definitely seem better suited.
If you're free, try to make Frankenfest as well. It's at a new venue this time.
Glenn
Glenn
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There's been mids needing new surrounds on fleabay. Several pair in fact.
When I replaced the surrounds on my mids, the ferro fluid seemed to be in good condition due to the fact the cones had plenty of easy movement. I left them as is, just replaced the surrounds, and face plate foam to look original.
Glenn
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On February 7, 2020 at 11:35 AM, nbman said:
I left them as they were. I'm ok with the contrast of the lighter stands and the darker cabs, plus they match the log wall as well.
They sound great at ear level. Using them as my zone 2 speakers.
Going to look into those surrounds though..since you pointed it out, it's been bugging me. You think that extra glue that squeezed out is having any effect on sound quality?
Thanks
The bit of extra glue won't have any effect on the sound, just your eyes! I wouldn't worry about it, but check the surrounds lip by the screws.
Glenn
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Nice score and getting them back in shape Chris. Fabulous speakers. Also sequencial serial numbers!
The one thing I'll suggest is having Roy rebuild the mids. Made a huge difference in mine.
You can get the correct Saran grill material from QComponents in Canada, if you're wanting to get them looking completely original.
How do they compare to your LSTs?
Hope to see you at either Frankenfest in March, or Peekskill in May, and maybe bring the 3's to demo!
Cheers, Glenn
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On January 3, 2020 at 4:17 PM, Lucky Pierre said:
Hi Glenn,
Happy New Year!
Well, I finally expect to have a permanent position within the month. I've been consulting with a new start up since the end of October. My boss says to expect a permanent position in January. It will have been a little over a year since I have had permanent employment (and seven months in 2019 with no job.) Once the contract is in hand we'll start looking for a new house. There is one just across the street from us that I want. Mostly because it has a two storey, 1000 sq. ft., heated and insulated barn! A big workshop is just what I need!
Peter
Fingers crossed Peter!
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I'm glad the thread is helpful, that was the intent! I'm in agreement with you regarding the grills. It wasn't intensional, but I like that they are slightly sheer, revealing hints of the drivers.
Enjoy your 12's, they're special speakers.
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Thanks, much appreciated! You got a great deal on yours!
Yes, yours are original, except the surrounding foam trim is gone, and the basket was painted black.
The foam surrounds are original, clearly repaired with what looks like a thin application of silicone. They won't last much longer.
I would do a recap as well. Those black caps are crap and out of spec by now.
Cheers, Glenn
AR LSTs - Water damage repair
in Acoustic Research
Posted
Unfortunately, your pics are not visible.