Jump to content

samberger0357

Members
  • Posts

    581
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Posts posted by samberger0357

  1. Since they were restored by somebody who knew what they were doing I think they were in the best condition they could be. That said, there is a night and day difference between my current 3's that had the mids and tweets rebuilt and previous versions I've owned/heard. So it wouldn't surprise me that rebuilding the drivers on the 2ax would help improve them. But at the time I didn't feel that that highs were lacking. Just that the overall presentation seemed non musical. Wish I could be more articulate about my issues with them.

     

    I wonder also if where 2ax's are relatively easy to find, but but 5's not so much has to do with not only the difference in production numbers, but that generally people hold onto one and tend to move on from the other.

  2. FWIW I found the 2ax dull also. Mine were restored, but everytime I put them in the system, they just let me down compared to other speakers I was using at the time, such as the KLH Model Six and Five, and of course 3's and 3a's. And they were an early pair with the cloth surrounds. I really wanted to like them, but they just never did it for me.

     

    I've never heard the 5's, but I've never seen anybody say anything bad about them.

  3. And use the sealant very sparingly. Follow the directions and use just a very light coat to start, let it dry, test it out. You may need to retouch depending on long it's been and how it sounds, but you definitely don't want to over apply and make the surround too stiff.

     

    Ask me how I know this😏

  4. 15 hours ago, JKent said:

    Cool! Did you happen to have the Hi-Vi tweets in any 3a's and if so, what would you say about the comparison of those with the rebuilds? I have Hi-Vis in my 3a's and wonder if I should try to replace them with refurbished originals.

    Kent

    I had the Hi-Vi tweets in a pair of 3a's before I sent the originals off for a rebuild by Chris, and for me the difference was subtle yet obvious. The originals did a better job of blending in overall with the mids  making for a smoother presentation. I liked the Hi-Vi well enough but from day 1 they were just brighter then I would've preferred, even with the tone pots turned down quite a bit. The originals displayed none of that and were much more natural sounding to my ears. The same now goes for my 3's.

  5. 11 minutes ago, genek said:

    I'm sure that MAC4100 and later receivers could probably do the job, but considering that Russell started out asking about a receiver that typically sells for under $150 on eBay I doubt that anything McIntosh is on his list of potential receiver choices.

    Not to nitpick, but while his original question concerned his present receiver he didn't indicate a price constraint for his followup question. He asked "What receiver could carry all 4 at the same time?". 

     

    Maybe he'll be back to clarify.

  6. 48 minutes ago, genek said:

    A receiver or amplifier that supports 2 ohm loads can safely handle ONE pair of AR-3as at high volumes. For two pairs together, what you want is either a receiver with a pre out connection and a second power amplifier, or better, a preamp and two power amplifiers.

    Many amplifiers and even some receivers rated at 4 ohms can safely handle 2 ohm loads even if they are not rated for them. If the manufacturer is still in business, contact their tech support and ask.

    The MAC 4100 is equipped to drive up to 3 pairs of 8 ohm speakers, so it can safely handle 2 ohm loads. I had one and used it often to drive a pair of AR3's stacked with a pair of 3a's without issue. It never got warm.  I now use a McIntosh MC2300 which gets down to 1/2 ohm if necessary.

     

     

  7. Holy moly man! You must've built up some fantastic karma to get a haul like that. Those are beautiful and super early! Let us know how they sound when you get around to it.

     

    And that Empire is fantastic. A wonderful table and of course matches up perfectly with the 3a's.

     

    Enjoy!

  8. Just now, leemichaelbrian said:

    To echo a previous statement about damping factor, I'm driving 3a's with a Mac MC2100 which is not a particularly high damping factor design, but does have a decent amount of (if not quite Crown-level) power.  I've heard tighter from more modern solid state, however there is something very musically "right" and organic to the 3a's bass with the MC2100 - as well as a sense of abundant reserve power on tap, even with higher listening levels. 

    I use a 2105(same as 2100 but with meters) with my 3a's, and while rated power is 105 watts, these normally bench at closer to 150. Plenty of power and headroom for the AR's.

     

    And I agree with you about it being musically right.

  9. Had a quick look at the manuals, and I think you can probably use the "audio out" jacks on the back of the Yamaha to use it as a preamp, but I'm not sure. Those are both home theater receiver's, and it's not clear to me if either one can be used as a preamp. Again somebody else will probably be around to add to the conversation.

     

     

    The Crown has it's own gain controls, so you can just plug your source component(CD player, for example)directly into it and control volume with the Crown(or the cd player, or any other source component if it has their own volume control). If you have more then one source, you can always buy a cheap input box, plug your source's into that and then output it into the Crown.

  10. Hi, and welcome.

     

    Congratulations on acquiring your dad's 3's. Not only did you get a fantastic pair of speakers, but you have distinct knowledge of their history which makes them even more special.

     

    First thing would be to make sure the 3's are performing as they should. With speakers this old, you probably will need to consider some restoration. In the library there is an excellent guide for AR3a restoration, which can be followed for restoring the 3's as well.

     

    When determining what to drive them with, you want to make sure that anything you buy is able to drive 4 ohm speakers, which of course the 3's are. As for the power, the more the better. While certainly you can get away with listening to lower power amps(like the Naim in  your list at 60 watts), I would try to look for at least 100 watts, 150-200 better. It's not to wreak havoc on your family/neighbors, but rather to take advantage of that big, 12" woofer that needs a lot of current/air pumped through it in order to really bring all the benefits of the 3's richness to the music. With more power, you won't have to turn the gain up all that much to have that happen. You'll have more headroom and better dynamics, and you  won't have to worry as much about blowing out one of the sensitive tweeters by turning up the volume knob to get more bottom. Obviously, taking into consideration your listening habits, music, space you'll be listening in are important factors to consider as well.

     

    I've personally not heard any of the amps in your list, but certainly all the companies are well thought of. The integrated amps  won't require a separate preamp. Only the Parasound would. And of the 4, I would rule out the Naim at 60 watts.  So that would leave the Rogue's. And on paper they both look good. I don't see 4 ohm specs for either so perhaps somebody here will be able to comment on that.

     

    I'm sure others will be around that have  more technical knowledge then me to provide additional guidance and suggestions. When you can, perhaps let us see some pictures of your speakers. It will help in further providing assistance in possible restoration, and besides, always nice to see another pair in the wild.

     

    Good luck!

     

     

     

    Other

     

     

  11. Can't remember exactly but I know Mingus Ah-Um was in there somewhere. Been tossing a lot of everything at it/them(the 3a's are presently residing on top of my 3's...they're powered by a McIntosh MC2105, and the 3's by a McIntosh MC2250. Levels are matched, it goes through a  McIntosh C34V pre, then that goes to a McIntosh CR7 remote system that controls the overall gain. Sounds fantastic and can create quite a racket.  Also allows me to isolate either pair  if I want to. 

     

    D8-C66-D18-49-F3-4-C1-B-868-F-5-E78-DA49

     

     

  12. 20 minutes ago, Aadams said:

    I can speak from personal experience with Chris as he rebuilt the tweeters in both the 3's and 3a's that I own.

    samberger0357

    I see you got your 3a tweeters back.  Are going to give a report on the comparison?

     

     

     

     

    The first thing that jumped out at me was how much they didn't.  Jump out at me, that is,  compared to the HiVi's. Much more subtle and balanced, and yet while not as blunt, the really sparkle on the highest end. My hearing isn't what it was when I was 20, but getting my ear up close to the speaker I could really notice how they now blend in with the overall presentation of the speaker, as opposed to being the dominant presence that the Hi's seemed to be. The 3a's, while always sounding good, became that much easier to listen to, and much closer to the 3's then they were pre-op.

     

     

  13. 42 minutes ago, ellloko said:

    If I decide to purchase the 3s and the tweeters are blown is there a good replacement option for them? Guy at the audio shop said it wouldnt be as good as the originals.

    Yes! You can have the originals rebuilt, which is by far the best option.  Both forum members RoyC and Chris1this1 rebuild them.  I can speak from personal experience with Chris as he rebuilt the tweeters in both the 3's and 3a's that I own.

     

     

  14. 6 minutes ago, newandold said:

    Months?!? Wow....you’ve been monitoring this one I see.... selling quick is all about being brutally honest. Lots of pictures, and if you as a seller don’t know something for sure, let it be known in your advertisement. Oh well, I love buying, But I hate selling, a necessary evil at times.For what it’s worth, the last pair of speakers I sold off, went out of here in one week.

    Never saw the ad before you referred to it in your original post. But this would provide some clue as to how long he's been waiting for a buyer:

    "Listed 15 weeks ago in Summerville, SC"

     

    And yes, I agree with your points about how to insure a reasonably quick sale. You see a lot of his type on Craig's List, as least I do locally. Stuff that just sits and sits, never a price reduction, questions hardly or never responded to. Scratch your head situations.

     

    Takes all kinds I suppose.

    "

×
×
  • Create New...