JKent

Hey--if you can call a guitar a "buitar" cut him some slack on the "Mallards." :lol: We all make typos. Kent

I was browsing the 'net looking for info on a particular Cornell-Dubilier product and found this: http://www.planetz.com/?p=652 The guitarist plays a number of riffs, over and over, substituting different types of caps to reveal the differences in tone. Now I don't have golden ears, and I am listening through some crappy computer speakers so maybe that nullifies the whole thing, but as far as I can tell there is NO difference whatsoever among the various caps. The performer, who is after all hearing it "live" concludes there may be some differences but they are "subtle". So give me the Madisound surplus caps, Carlis and Erse PEX. I'll save my money for recordings or more gear! Just my rant o' the day Kent

The 3 (NOT the 3a) did use the same tweeter as the 2ax. Same driver. I can't explain it--for that you'd have to talk to Roy or John. btw--another cheap way to replace the 90-ish cap would be a whole bunch of 10uF surplus caps from Madisound. They are 60 cents each, so 9 of them (90uF) would cost $5.40 per speaker. Not bad. http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/surplus-capacitors/10.0-mfd-polypropylene-cap-10mfdp/tyee/ For the 2uF, if you go with Madisound, they have Solens http://www.madisoundspeakerstore.com/solen-capacitors/ edit: They also have very inexpensive 2.0uF surplus caps (0.35 ea) Kent

Hi ra.ra Roy sent me the 1.9uF caps but 2.0 is close enough. And if I were doing it again I'd replace the big "maybe 87" caps with new 90 or even 100uF NPEs. I don't trust anything that resembles the infamous Callins PVC caps. The tweeter is 8 ohms but the overall system is 4 ohms. Not that unusual. The 4 ohm KLH 20 and the 8 ohm 17 used the same tweeter and crossover, just different woofers. Kent

Mick, Your method is fine. If your amp is designed to drive 2 pair of speakers you've connected them the right way: Output A to speakers A and output B to speakers B. The deal with wiring stacked Advents in parallel has benefits and risks. If your amp only has one pair of outputs you have to connect both pair of speakers or buy an external speaker selector box. If 2 pair of Advents are connected in parallel it drop what the amp "sees" from 8 ohms to 4 ohms. This means more power is available, the speakers will be a bit louder and less likely to clip. For example, my MAC4100 is rated 75wpc into 8 ohms but 100wpc into 4 ohms. BUT not all amps, especially not cheap amps, can handle 4 ohms. If your amp is not rated for 4 ohm loads do NOT connect the Advents in parallel. Denovo: Onkyos are pretty robust. I've had 2 and both were rated for 4 ohms. Similarly, you should never connect two 4 ohm speakers in parallel. Very very few amps are capable of handling 2 ohm loads. And the impedance varies. A 4 ohm speaker's impedance is not a constant 4 ohms. A 2 ohm load is dangerous. Zero ohm = short circuit. Kent

Quick comment on ASZ: MANY (most? all?) recordings of that piece are compressed, so you don't get a 20Hz tone. The opening organ pedal in a live performance is 16Hz (low C), played through a 32 foot pipe. Since the vast majority of home speakers cannot reproduce that, the engineers compress the sound. On an excellent recording you "may" get 32 Hz but more likely a higher harmonic, like 48. I'm quite sure no vinyl recording has a 16Hz or even 32Hz tone, but maybe one of the resident engineers has a more informed opinion. Kent

They're not better. The W35 xo was designed specifically for the W35 drivers and box. Don't mess with it. New caps are easy and that should be all you need. Kent

Yes--I did look around a little and saw that the nuts are closed on top. Don't have those, just the plain knurled nuts. Thanks for the tips. As a radio guy you probably know the brand of the capacitor matters little. Many here use Dayton from Parts Express or Solen from PE or Madisound. Carli, from Madisound is a good inexpensive film cap with low ESR. Lately some of us have been using Erse caps--a very good value: http://www.erseaudio.com/ As a tube radio enthusiast, perhaps you would find my KLH Model Eight restoration guide interesting. It's attached to Post #1 here: http://www.classicspeakerpages.net/IP.Board/index.php?showtopic=6387 It's a work in progress--I'm working on the 4th revision now--so any input (pos or neg) is welcome. Kent

Welcome to the CSP! I saw a photo of the back of some W25s and it looks like they have knurled nuts, just like the 8-32 nuts used on AR, KLH and others. If that's the case, you "should" be able to find solid brass ones in a good hardware store. If you want nickle-plated brass those are harder to find but I have some. Send me a PM if interested. Please try to confirm the thread size. Here's the kind I'm talking about: http://www.ebay.com/...=item3a7150fcf0 If that's what you need, let me know. Also, if your W35 crossover is more or less similar to the W25 shown here, http://www.ebay.com/itm/Wharfedale-B-I-C-W25-Speaker-Input-Jack-Crossover-Works-GREAT-British-/140674947057#vi-content (except that the 25 is 2-way and the 35 is 3-way), you should replace the capacitors. It looks like the 25 has the dreaded black and red Callins type PVC cap. These are notorious for leaking. ALSO--if you have not done so--examine your woofer surrounds. If they are foam they are probably beginning to rot. Kent

I'll be ordering some more labels: AR, Advent, KLH. Not sure of pricing yet but should be reasonable. If you have any requests let me know. I can only get laser-engraving on thin aluminum. The large cast KLH labels are unobtainium, as are the thick engraved AR3a and similar or the cutout "3" or "a". But the flat ones are quite good (see 1st post). I also have the BACK labels for the KLH Eight and Thirteen. Kent edit: I now have the brass "3" for AR-3 and the "a" for AR-2a and early 2ax

Not simple-minded at all (take it from one who asked asked MANY!) The biggest danger to speakers is caused by clipping: over-driving an under-powered amp. So the danger would be from using an amp that is too small. You can safely use even a 500 watt amp, assuming you're listening in your living room and not trying to fill Giants Stadium (or crank it up to 11*) CSP member Vern (Dynaco Dan) is a real advocate for fusing speakers and you can look into this. Most modern amps have speaker-protection circuits built in, but if you are concerned do a search here for fusing information. I've never used fuses and have not had a problem but YMMV. Enjoy! Kent * Spinal Tap reference

Finished them (with no help from the president of Ohm). When I wrote to ask about the brown glop on the pole piece and told him I was refoaming the woofers, he responded that I did "not understand the unique things we designed into the L woofer to make that speaker so outstanding when it was introduced and still sounding better than most speakers sold today." Wanted me to buy new woofers ($190/pair) and "SBA" ($80/pr) "to make them survive CDs and DVDs." Despite the unhelpful response and sleazy sales pitch, I went ahead and refurbished them with new foam surrounds from M_Sound and new film capacitors (one 8.2uF Dayton poly and one 2.2uF mylar per speaker). Must say I was impressed! They sound very nice, with surprisingly good bass (even without the SBA circuit). In all fairness, if I were keeping them I would probably spring for the SBA. Assume it's sort of like the Allison "electronic subwoofer" but seriously doubt it's needed for "survival". Here are some shots--one of the finished speakers with grilles off, one illustrating you can never have too many clamps and finally one showing you CAN have too many speakers! That shot shows completed Ohm L, completed OLA, completed AR91, Bozak MB-80s (really nice mini monitors. Can't figure out how to remove the woofer for recapping), and in the background a completely recapped MAC4100. This is getting out of hand! Kent

Just found a pair at the Sal. Filthy but in pretty good shape. Some dark "flower pot" rings on top of one, and no more than 3 small chips in the real wood veneer. Not bad for $4.99. Of course the surrounds are shot. CSP member ToastedAlmond commented on AK: Anyone have more info? I did test the woofers at very low volume and they work but I don't know if there is any more subtle damage. Any other comments? These will be my 2nd Brooklyn-born speakers (first pair were Rectilinear Mini IIIs). Brooklyn ain't New England, and these puppies have ports, but they seem to have potential. Kent

A final thought on the Fives: After recapping mine I was a little disappointed. They look beautiful and were "supposed" to be KLH's answer to the AR-3a. They just didn't excite me. So now I'm trying to get rid of some of the many speakers I've acquired, and found a buyer for the Fives. Pulled them out of the corner where they've sat for over a year to inspect them before packing. Then I noticed what I had never looked for before: The cloth woofer surrounds were quite porous. So, following the Service Bulletin #60 I applied Roy's sealant to the woofer and mid surrounds, and to the woofer dust cap. Fired 'em up and WOW! Now THAT's what they should sound like! Just as good as my AR-3a's and AR-91s (now I'm sort of sorry I sold them ). SO...Before considering esoteric caps for your Fives or other cloth-surround speakers, seal the woofer surrounds. It makes a MAJOR difference! One more note: Although the Service Bulletin says to seal the dust cap as well, I don't think it's necessary to use Roy's non-drying sealant there. The caps are quite rigid. Aleene's Tacky glue or white glue used for foam surrounds should probably work fine. Kent

Hi John Do a google search on Philips AD5061/M8 and you will find some info on these speakers and on their use in Rectilinear (and Dahlquist) speakers. Then do a search on Philips AD5061/M4. Looks like the "/M4" was a 4 ohm version. Don't know which versions are in your Xa's or XIIs but you could pull them and look for markings on the backs, or measure the DCR of each. Hope this helps. FWIW-- back to the original topic, I am now of the opinion that Advent switched to (or from) the Phillips driver at some point in production. I have seen several and they appear to be factory-installed, with a special aluminum adaptor plate. Kent

Sorry Steve. As I said, I have not owned or heard the 2s and was only summarizing what I had read. Many people were critical of the "odd" angled tweeters and their imaging. Maybe those writers are mistaken. I do like my AR2s with their angled tweeters, and of course MicroStatic made both add-on arrays and full-range system with angled tweeters, so maybe they're fine. I do think the IP should consider keeping these if they are real walnut veneer and he can get the woofers refoamed, but it sounds like he just wants to"flip" them at a profit, so if that's the case he may not consider them worthwhile. They won't fetch big bucks. Kent

Yes. Well, not really. Never had these but from what I've read the woofers are good but an odd size. The crossovers are unimpressive and the tweeter array is well-intentioned but misses the mark. The 2/w were the "modern" looking ones in the white plastic cabinets with metal grilles. You may be able to sell the tweeters on eBay and make a few bucks. It's "possible" even the woofers with bad surrounds could be sold. Things like the metal grilles and even speaker terminal nuts (not sure if the 2 had those) could be sold, then put the money toward other speakers. You may even be able to sell them intact, as-is, as long as you disclose the surround rot issue. So don't just chuck them. They look like this picture, right? OTOH, if the speakers are cosmetically nice, you like them and have use for them, have them refoamed and enjoy. Even figuring the shipping cost to a reputable repair shop, your total cost will be well under $100 and the speakers will be better than anything you could buy new for that price. Plan B: Buy a $25 refoam kit and tackle it yourself. As I understand it, you will have to buy "smaller Advent" surrounds, cut and seam them to make them smaller diameter. A bit tricky for a first-timer but not impossible. Take a look at MSound's step-by-step instructions to see if you want to try it. Then contact M Sound and ask about a kit for the Advent 2. http://www.citlink.net/~msound/refoam/ Good luck Kent

Welcome to the CSP! Yes--plugging them into the wall socket would be a bad thing Before playing them at all, you should look at the woofers (the big round speakers inside) and check the surrounds (foam rubber circle around the perimeter of the paper part). They are probably deteriorated, which means they (the surrounds) have to be replaced. If you play the speakers with deteriorated surrounds,you can destroy the speakers. "Re-foaming" these speakers is a challenge because the woofers are not a standard size. You would be better off sending them to a pro, like Millersound in PA. Probably cost about $50 - 60 for the pair. Well worth it if you like the speakers. You can use virtually any amp or receiver. Parts Express sells the Audiosource Amp100, which is a nice little amp, for $100 http://www.parts-exp...tnumber=302-601 Check your woofers then get back to us Kent

sure Steve. I'll send an email. Kent

Welcome to CSP! Hope you'll find helpful people here. Maybe YOU can help clear up the mysterious maker's marks inside some vintage speaker cabinets! http://www.audiokarma.org/forums/showthread.php?t=337373 Kent

thanks Vern Here is the Model Eight (and Eleven) speaker logo. see Post 14

Finished! Here is a shot of the insides, labeled. The 6 screw holes on the lid were filled with epoxy and reinforced with small strips of scrap wood, then redrilled. The Velcro strips on the bottoms had to be removed to remove the plywood, so new Velcro was installed. Also added an extra strip across the top (these hang on the back of each speaker) to help support the added weight. The Clarity cap in the center was originally installed with a cable tie but the mounting block added too much height, so now it is stuck on with double-sided foam tape. I have never put much stock in esoteric caps--no golden ears here--but my Twelves with these upgraded xo boxes sound great! Hard to do a real A/B comparison, but subjectively I think they sound better than they did with the mylar caps, and they also seem to sound better than my AR2ax + VMPS sub setup. YMMV. Switches were sprayed with De-Oxit and the screw terminals in the back got a little dielectric grease. Will send these back to Rob (if I can part with them ) Kent edit: the 2.7uF is mislabeled as 3.7

Apparently just getting warmed up. If you go back to post #34 you can see Rob's three pair of Model Twelve contour boxes, with a mix of no-name film caps and some NPEs for the 50uF caps. Here is the re-do of pair #2. Rob wanted all high-quality film caps. The selection was based on two considerations: Quality and physical size. Here's what we used in each box: 1) 2.7uF Auricap (original value 3uF) 3) 4uF Auricaps 1) 15uF Clarity Cap PX (original value 16uF) 2) 50uF Dayton film & foil polypro Also replaced all the resistors with new Mills 12w non-inductive resistors. Fitting the 50uF Daytons was the biggest challenge. Thought I'd have to "raise the roof" of the contour box or put the caps outboard, but by cutting away part of the 1/2" plywood base inside the box, it provided just enough room. Also had to shift some of the inductors and tie points slightly. Photos below show the contour box before the "first" recap, the plywood base notched to accept the Daytons, and the finished contour box. One finished, one to go. Kent

Hi Carl Sorry-no. But Rob loves them. Maybe he will comment here. Kent

I had some reproduction KLH labels made. They're aluminum, and pretty good copies. Shown here. I can also get the larger KLH, but they will also be stick-on aluminum--not cast. Also AR logos in solid shiny brass or satin brass, large (for 1,2,3 and small (for TT, 4) Also have some solid brass "3"s and "a"s Dynaco and Advent too. Sorry--no 3a plates Questions? email KLHbyJKH@gmail.com Kent edit: PRICES VARY SO CONTACT ME. ALL ARE UNDER $10 EACH. SOME ARE $5. edit: New photos. Please scroll down to Post #14 edit: AR and Dynaco logos are solid brass