coner Posted June 29, 2012 Report Share Posted June 29, 2012 Really need in there to upgrade caps, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dxho Posted June 29, 2012 Report Share Posted June 29, 2012 Two basic options: cut the back open, or chip out the glue behind the terminal plate and reach in. I've seen at least one comment that the glue can also be melted by a heat gun.Here's a thread on some Model Fours, but it's basically the same for the Sixes. (Scroll back to the first post in the thread for pictures). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynaco_dan Posted June 30, 2012 Report Share Posted June 30, 2012 Really need in there to upgrade caps, etc.Hi thereAs a point of interest, the early AR-LST speakers had the crossover board rear mounted in a routed out recess.It would allow one to service the crossover, re-fasten and seal the enclosure and still allow for future access.I originally suggested sabre-sawing a sharp angled circular cutout which could still be re-fastened and sealed.The LST is a more secure and professional job, IMO. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WoodGuitar Posted March 4, 2013 Report Share Posted March 4, 2013 Don't try to melt the glue unless you want to disassemble the entire cabinet, top, bottom and sides. The back has a tongue all around it that fits into a groove in the sides, top and bottom. I just finished replacing the capacitors in my early '60's sealed 6's. On one I cut the back out by drilling a hole near the edge of the back and cutting with a saber saw. The second I did by removing the connection plate and chipping out the epoxy. I had to reach in to replace the large capacitor since it was mounted on the front plate, but was able to do so even though I had to do it one handed and blind. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alkermes Posted March 7, 2013 Report Share Posted March 7, 2013 Why the change of approach? Do you recommend one over the other?edit...just read your longer post, now it makes sense. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wilson Posted November 27, 2013 Report Share Posted November 27, 2013 I did this by making a masonite panel exactly the size of the rear plate to mount the crossover and to ensure a proper seal when re-assemled.The epoxy chips out fairly easily once you get started. I was lucky enough to have the removable tweeter version so I had an extra entry point, but think you can get at everything through the back hole. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alkermes Posted December 6, 2013 Report Share Posted December 6, 2013 Thanks for posting the info and especially the photos. I will have to make this my next project. I need to hear my 6's again! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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