ar 1w

[diggitty]

Hi im new here. Just picked up a pair yes a pair of AR 1w single woofer. The cabinets had been stained a strange color of blue then had piano gloss applied.All this had been badly done. The speakers themselves r in good shape for their age. I understand these were to be mated with seperate mids and hi i.e. Jansezens #130. Cant find find much info on the 1w online. I have hooked them up to a reciever and they sound ok. Ok being tere is no crossover. Cant find a value on these. The speakers r now sanded to the bare wood (white pine?). Just dont know what to do with these? sell them? wait for janszens? use them as subs?. Used as subs how to cross them over? equalizer? im very confused but grateful a piece of speaker history sits before me not being used. ANY HELP WOULD BE MUCH APPRECIATED peace thanx

[genek]

AR manufactured the 1W for a very long time, from the 50's through the early 70's (long after the Janszens had gone away). Can you post some pics so we can guesstimate which era's version you have?

[diggitty]

AR manufactured the 1W for a very long time, from the 50's through the early 70's (long after the Janszens had gone away). Can you post some pics so we can guesstimate which era's version you have?

The serials r #18843 and 18844 trying to upload pix

[diggitty]

AR manufactured the 1W for a very long time, from the 50's through the early 70's (long after the Janszens had gone away). Can you post some pics so we can guesstimate which era's version you have?

genek u have already provided some info i did not know the manufacturing dates i have posted some pix yhanx peace

[dynaco_dan]

genek u have already provided some info i did not know the manufacturing dates i have posted some pix yhanx peace

Hi there

Sure nice seeing the front of the cabinet, looks like new.

There is quite likely a manufacturing date rubber stamped on the rear of the magnet of the woofers.

The serial numbers indicate they were later in production, assuming they were all produced and

serial numbered consecutively throughout their entire production life.

I am assuming that they started with serial numbers somewhere around number 00001.

The transition of the 12 inch woofers over to the foam version will tie in with the AR-1X, AR-3 and AR-3A woofer changeover.

When re-mounting the woofers, there is a number of cabinet sealers suitable for that purpose.

Home Depot for one, sells duct seal, a brick of electrical sealer putty for only a few dollars.

Cut off a piece and roll it in your hand to form a pencil shaped piece and lay it in the groove.

Do not over-torque the machine screws.

More advice to follow by the experts as they see this topic.

[michiganpat]

holy big pictures batman!

another sealer that works well is simple plumbers putty. 3M rope calk, too.

judging from the appearance of the woofer, with the foam damping ring and ribs, I'd wager they're mid 60's.

I'd use them as subs, probably through an active crossover, or pick up a sub plate amp from parts express, build a small enclosure for it, and use that to drive them. they have active crossovers in them.

[dynaco_dan]

holy big pictures batman!

another sealer that works well is simple plumbers putty. 3M rope calk, too.

judging from the appearance of the woofer, with the foam damping ring and ribs, I'd wager they're mid 60's.

I'd use them as subs, probably through an active crossover, or pick up a sub plate amp from parts express, build a small enclosure for it, and use that to drive them. they have active crossovers in them.

Hi there

Sorry to disagree with you regarding the plumbers putty.

It does harden and dry out in time.

Among my many jobs plumbing was one of them.

3M rope caulk, I am not too sure about, unless it was the putty rope that I wrote about here quite a while a go, it is used as an automotive body filler.

About 100' to a box, pencil size strips.

[genek]

Plumbers putty can also be kind of wet when it comes out of the container. The 3M rope caulk is sold as window caulking. It works and doesn't harden much. Comes as strips that are stamped to make them tearable into strings as narrow as 1/8".

The last few times I opened up speakers I've used foam gasket tape. Self-adhesive strips that go on the cabinet flange and make it a lot easier to swap drivers around.

[fordf250]

Hi-you might consider speaker gasket,self adhesive,foam tape from Parts Express. I just did my AR9's: new surrounds, new caps, the works. I used the above tape for all the drivers and it worked great. The following are the specifics: tape is 1/8" by 1/2" by 50'----part number is 260-542. You will find the price is extremely reasonable.

[diggitty]

Thanx for the replies. Anybody have a value on these speakers? and also what r some of the janszen alternitives?. i may have a line on some microstatic tweeter array, i believe microacoustics made them. Also how would i hook these up to use as subs?peace thank u

[genek]

The MA arrays cover frequencies from 3500Hz up and don't go low enough to mate with the 1W. You'll need something that goes down below 1kHz.

[dynaco_dan]

Thanx for the replies. Anybody have a value on these speakers? and also what r some of the janszen alternitives?. i may have a line on some microstatic tweeter array, i believe microacoustics made them. Also how would i hook these up to use as subs?peace thank u

Hi there

The Janszen 1-30 electrostatic 4 speaker array was probably the most ideal compact AR-1 or AR-1W compatible add-on speaker system.

The Microstatic tweeter array was useful for improving dispersion of the high range, above 4,500 hz or 7,500 hz and up.

Several variations were sold and several different tweeters were used.

I believe that the Peerless were the better and original tweeters.

There was also several variations of the Janszen speakers during it's production life.

Most all electrostatic speakers need a factory tune-up or cleanup after a few years of use or they would buzz from dirt.

No new OEM replacement drivers have been available for some time now for either brand.