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This weekend I got my AR2ax's out of the closet where they been for lots of years.

I found your site and decided to try to rebuild them.

I bought these AR2ax's in 74 when I also bought a pair of AR3a's. I didn't like the 2ax's compared to the 3a's so the 2ax's spent a lot of time just sitting while the 3a's have been rebuilt twice in thirty years (not by me). I thought I give it a try on the 2ax's and use them in my workroom. I used your tip on taking the grills off and it work just great.

The woofers have some foam rot so I'll be sending them to Layne Audio. However I can't get anyone to answer the phone at Layne. I've tried in the morning and the phone will answer with the message "out of memory". The rest of the day it just rings. I've tried all night up to 10pm CST and it just rings. Two emails have gotten no reply. I don't want to just sent the woofer's without having made contact. I like the idea of talking to Steve first. I've also looked at simplyspeakers.com and wasn't as impressed as I was at Layne Audio.

Does anyone have a suggestion?

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Guest dogmeninreno

>This weekend I got my AR2ax's out of the closet where they

>been for lots of years.

>I found your site and decided to try to rebuild them.

> I bought these AR2ax's in 74 when I also bought a pair of

>AR3a's. I didn't like the 2ax's compared to the 3a's so the

>2ax's spent a lot of time just sitting while the 3a's have

>been rebuilt twice in thirty years (not by me). I thought I

>give it a try on the 2ax's and use them in my workroom. I

>used your tip on taking the grills off and it work just

>great.

>The woofers have some foam rot so I'll be sending them to

>Layne Audio. However I can't get anyone to answer the phone

>at Layne. I've tried in the morning and the phone will

>answer with the message "out of memory". The rest of the day

>it just rings. I've tried all night up to 10pm CST and it

>just rings. Two emails have gotten no reply. I don't want to

>just sent the woofer's without having made contact. I like

>the idea of talking to Steve first. I've also looked at

>simplyspeakers.com and wasn't as impressed as I was at Layne

>Audio.

>Does anyone have a suggestion?

Steven is extremely difficult to get in touch with but he does do good work and it's worth continuing to try. I have best luck in the late afternoon it seems. I also believe he has a fax# but I cannot locate it right now..A lot of people have also recommended millersound labs the # I have is for Bill (215) 412-7700. I am not sure how current it is but I'm sure someone out there knows? Good Luck!! Dale

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Try Bill Miller at:

Millersound Labs, 1422 Taylor Road, Lansdale, PA 19446, Phone 215-412-7700 Fax 215-412-0542

He too does very good work, in some cases better than Layne. I asked Layne if they could re build my original Alnico AR-3 woofers and they said its impossible, Bill Miller said it would be no problem. Im not putting down Layne, they are a great supplier of parts. I got all of the parts for the crossovers in my 3's from Layne, and Steven is a wealth of Knowledge, they just dont do the advacned work.

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Thanks for the info. I to want to upgrade the crossovers.

FYI I tried again last night to get hold of Steve (or anyone) at Layne. I had the operator check the line and she reported a possible problem. It is busy but without traffic. I hope everything is ok there.

Using the tips I found here I successfully removed the crossover board (and wasn't that fun!). I noticed some scorching in the fiberglass insulation as well as wire insulation where the midrange ties into the curcuit board. I think I've found the reason why this speaker isn't working. Other than refoaming I want to do this myself and was hoping to recieve advice from Steve. But if its this hard to get in touch with him I'll try somewhere else. Tks again

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Guest lmrosenthal

Hi,

I just posted my experiences upgrading my 3a crossovers, and one of the most difficult things I ran into was trying to get the old crossover mounting board out. How did you do this? If you read my post, I tried everything, and ultimately just cut a 1/8" thick piece of hardboard (masonite) and duplicated the mounting holes for the coils.

Larry

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Definitely give Bill Miller a call...it's even possible that he can offer some advice regarding the removal of that crossover board, too.

We've had a number of drivers repaired and refoamed by Bill, and his work is extraordinary - I was certain that one of my son's AR-9 woofers was beyond hope, and Bill brought it completely back to life!

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The Classic Speakers had a post on fixing some AR3a's. I figured the 2ax's would be the same. I removed the woofer to give me access to the crossoverboard and the midrange to shine a bright light in.

The curcuit board is held in by a bunch of small staples and glue.

I used a needlenose pliers and a jeweler screw driver to get most of the staples out. This was not easy. I then used a small putty knife to pry around the sides of the board. In some places the glue had squeezed out and I had to use the putty knife to remove the excess. I the used a wider putty knife to slide under the board and pull it off. There was alittle damage the the surface when the glue held and the board didn't. I probably got lucky

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