Where to get 24-26 gauge crimps

[xbartx]

Can anyone tell me where I might get the 24-26 gauge silver-plated crimps that are mentioned in the "restoring the AR3a" post.

I ended up with 2 projects at the same a very nice set of JBL Jubals and and equally nice set of AR-3s. The Jubals needed work on

one of the woofers and the AR3's had one bad tweeter. I got the woofer done first so the JBL was the first to get finished.

They sounds really nice and I can't wait to compare them to the AR3s, I know they have a very different sound.

I need these crimps to finish the AR3s.

Thanks in advance-

[oldguide]

Can anyone tell me where I might get the 24-26 gauge silver-plated crimps that are mentioned in the "restoring the AR3a" post.

I ended up with 2 projects at the same a very nice set of JBL Jubals and and equally nice set of AR-3s. The Jubals needed work on

one of the woofers and the AR3's had one bad tweeter. I got the woofer done first so the JBL was the first to get finished.

They sounds really nice and I can't wait to compare them to the AR3s, I know they have a very different sound.

I need these crimps to finish the AR3s.

Thanks in advance-

Let me introduce you to the wonderful world of Mouser Electronics--the company with the catalog as thick as a NY phone book. You can go to their site, but I quickly found a part that I think meets your criteria (I used it on my ARs). It's Mouser Part # 571-323994 on page 1558 of their catalog. Or you can look up Amp terminal. I do a lot of equipment rebuilding, rescuing and inevitably I turn to Mouser for resistors, capacitors, transistors, op amps...Their catalog can be addicting. The one drawback to Mouser is shipping. You buy a part that is less than a dollar you still pay minimum USPS shipping, so I usually keep a "Mouser list" of things I need. Last week needed a 22K resistor but had also been holding out for a quieter fan for my pro amp which Mouser also had.

Parts Express is very good as is Madisound, but they are primarily oriented to speakers where Mouser and its counterpart Digikey sell all kind of electronic stuff (looking for computer repair parts--they have them).

Good luck.

[oldguide]

Let me introduce you to the wonderful world of Mouser Electronics--the company with the catalog as thick as a NY phone book. You can go to their site, but I quickly found a part that I think meets your criteria (I used it on my ARs). It's Mouser Part # 571-323994 on page 1558 of their catalog. Or you can look up Amp terminal. I do a lot of equipment rebuilding, rescuing and inevitably I turn to Mouser for resistors, capacitors, transistors, op amps...Their catalog can be addicting. The one drawback to Mouser is shipping. You buy a part that is less than a dollar you still pay minimum USPS shipping, so I usually keep a "Mouser list" of things I need. Last week needed a 22K resistor but had also been holding out for a quieter fan for my pro amp which Mouser also had.

Parts Express is very good as is Madisound, but they are primarily oriented to speakers where Mouser and its counterpart Digikey sell all kind of electronic stuff (looking for computer repair parts--they have them).

Good luck.

One further thought--I suspect you are dealing with the notorious aluminum wire connection problem. I found two ways of dealing with that without connectors. If you have enough wire to reach the terminal you can wrap copper or silver over it and then solder. If you need to lengthen the aluminum wire you want to form a hook with the copper and wrap the smaller wire around the hook, crimp the copper and then solder. The solder joins the copper but creates a "sandwich" with the aluminum. Be sure and VERY gently remove the coating on the aluminum or it won't connect to anything.

[xbartx]

One further thought--I suspect you are dealing with the notorious aluminum wire connection problem. I found two ways of dealing with that without connectors. If you have enough wire to reach the terminal you can wrap copper or silver over it and then solder. If you need to lengthen the aluminum wire you want to form a hook with the copper and wrap the smaller wire around the hook, crimp the copper and then solder. The solder joins the copper but creates a "sandwich" with the aluminum. Be sure and VERY gently remove the coating on the aluminum or it won't connect to anything.

Thanks!

With your suggestions, I did a little variation.

Here is what I ended up doing.

Photos show me doing a test run on a bad tweeter.

I used the butt end of a very small drill bit and wrapped a new wire around it, cleaned the old lead and soldered.

There was more than enough tooth on the aluminum wire to get solid contact with the new solder.

I think it ended up being a pretty clean fix and now on to recapping the AR3.

I do have questions on new replacement capacitors, that I'll save for a new thread.

[JKent]

Looks great. Your photos are very clear and it brought a question to mind: Were you sure to follow Oldguide's advice and remove the coating on the aluminum wire? Have not worked with aluminum wire myself, but went a little crazy once patching a hair-thin transformer wire. Forgot to scrape off the varnish

Kent