Guest bwarden Posted September 2, 2007 Report Share Posted September 2, 2007 I have been gathering the bits for refoaming, recapping, and repotting my AR 2ax's, and am just about ready to dive in.I reading the great posts on how to go about it here and on Audiokarma, I've noticed that no one seems to mention changing the wire, or replacing the binding posts. Any value in doing it?Also, I come to this project having just finished a DIY tube amp, where you spend a awful lot of effort paying attention to where and how signal wires run. I've seen pictures of the internals (here, I think) where the mid and tweeter wires run to a twisted bundle in the middle of the cabinet before getting to the drivers. Is there any point to avoiding this? Perhaps shortening the leads and/or twisting the leads for each driver together? Cleaning up the wire layout at the crossover?Or am I just way over thinking this? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JKent Posted September 2, 2007 Report Share Posted September 2, 2007 I'm not going to get into the "magic wire" controversy, but I would suggest you leave the original binding posts. They work well and are sturdy. You can put crimp-on ring terminals on your speaker wires and tighten down the knurled nuts securely. This preserves the "authentic" quality of the speakers. If you MUST "upgrade" them, go crazy with special caps! They'll sound good and won't show ;-)Kent Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Carlspeak Posted September 3, 2007 Report Share Posted September 3, 2007 My opinion is what you are already planning to do will have the most (and best) effect. New wires will have negligible, if any, effect.The binding posts are a pain to deal with. New ones are recommended as long as you aren't anal retentive about altering the 'originalness' of your 2ax's.It's all about the musicCarlCarl's Custom Loudspeakers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynaco_dan Posted September 3, 2007 Report Share Posted September 3, 2007 >My opinion is what you are already planning to do will have>the most (and best) effect. New wires will have negligible, if>any, effect.>The binding posts are a pain to deal with. New ones are>recommended as long as you aren't "anal retentive", about altering the 'originalness' of your 2ax's.Did someone call for me? LOL LOL>>>It's all about the music>>Carl>Carl's Custom Loudspeakers Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest matty g Posted September 4, 2007 Report Share Posted September 4, 2007 Hi - If I may make a suggestion from personal experience with the binding posts...I have found that while the cabinet is open it is a good idea to back off on the binding post locking nuts, add a little threadlocker and then re-tighten them while holding back the screw from the inside of the cabinet. This will stop the common problem of the posts turning when you tighten up the knurled nuts on the hook-up panel. This seems to happen more often when heavy gauge wire is used, and sometimes the lock nuts can't be tightened without holding back the screw.Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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