Got good pot(s)?

[JKent]

I know I already have a thread started, but I thought this might be a separate and more universal issue:

Regarding the potentiometers in AR speakers:How do you test them? I have a digital multimeter, but am NOT technically savvy--don't know the difference between volts and amps ;-)

I took the pots apart, buffed off the crud using a little wire wheel in my Dremel tool, and brushed some De-Ox-Id (guess that's a generic copy of Deoxit) on the contact points. Put the pots back together, but before I put them in the speakers, is there a way to check them with my meter so I'll know whether to go ahead and install them or chicken out and buy some L-pads?

thanks

[Carlspeak]

>I know I already have a thread started, but I thought this

>might be a separate and more universal issue:

>Regarding the potentiometers in AR speakers:How do you test

>them? I have a digital multimeter, but am NOT technically

>savvy--don't know the difference between volts and amps ;-)

>I took the pots apart, buffed off the crud using a little wire

>wheel in my Dremel tool, and brushed some De-Ox-Id (guess

>that's a generic copy of Deoxit) on the contact points. Put

>the pots back together, but before I put them in the speakers,

>is there a way to check them with my meter so I'll know

>whether to go ahead and install them or chicken out and buy

>some L-pads?

>thanks

Yes you can. Just set the DMM on ohms in a range of at least 20 or higher. Attach the red clip to the No. 1 tab and the black to the center tab. With the rheostat completely assembled, slowly rotate it and watch the DMM. A complete rotation from one stop to the other should provide a range from 0 to about 15 ohms or just the reverse depending on where you start. As you rotate the knob the reading should progress steadily. If it keeps jumping around alot, then the cleaning job wasn't good enough. You want to see a gradual, continuous change in ohms as you rotate the knob. When you succeed at that, you'll have a clean change in tweeter/mid sound without the static when you eventually get it all back together.

Have fun!

Remember, it's all about the music

Carl

Carl's Custom Loudspeakers

[JKent]

Thanks Carl

3 out of 4 -- dead! Good thing I checked! The ohm meter reads "1" just like it does when the probes are not touching anything! The 4th pot does go from about 0 to about 15.

Looks like I'll be replacing these with L-pads.

[dynaco_dan]

Hi there;

Just needs a little more work and Deoxit cleaner.

[JKent]

>Hi there;

>

>Just needs a little more work and Deoxit cleaner.

You're right Vern. More elbow grease yielded better results. Some pitting, though.

How long do you suppose the pots should last before they have to be cleaned again? I know there are those who advocate dumping the pots and using L-pads.

[dynaco_dan]

>>Hi there;

>>

>>Just needs a little more work and Deoxit cleaner.

>

>You're right Vern. More elbow grease yielded better results.

>Some pitting, though.

>How long do you suppose the pots should last before they have

>to be cleaned again? I know there are those who advocate

>dumping the pots and using L-pads.

Hi there;

I would suggest phoning a large automotive supplier to see what kind of grease they may have for alternators or generators to coat the armatures.

I have conductive grease, but that would cause a shorter path for the current.

Perhaps email Caig Labratories Inc and ask them the question.

I bought a 2 0unce or 59 ml, bottle of DeoxIT D100L ($34.95 CDN) treatment.

Claims it's good on Commutators even.

They have a vast selection of compounds for sale.

The wire inside the pots, I believe are, Nichrome which does not solder and isn't very flexible.

Basicly it is the same wire used in toasters.

Good luck.