Charles218 Posted February 4, 2006 Report Share Posted February 4, 2006 I have learned from the good folks on this forum that Deoxit is the product to use for cleaning contacts. While I have given up the idea of restoring my 3A's myself and will have it done professionally, I would like to clean the controls on my Dyna preamp. I have found Deoxit on Caig's web site, but it comes in several versions, slow dry, quick dry, tubes, sprays, brush on, etc. Is there a format that would be the best for getting at the controls on my amp? I notice that the quick dry sprays say that they are safe on plastic. Also, are there any chain stores that carry it? Home Depot, Radio Shack, Ace Hardware, etc. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest tdeutsch Posted February 6, 2006 Report Share Posted February 6, 2006 I first heard about Deoxit here as well. I bought a deoxit pen at Radio Shack. They also had a deoxit "gold" pen. The pen format enables you to rub the contact's surface to remove the corrosion, which I think is an advantage over just remotely spraying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest nathanso Posted February 6, 2006 Report Share Posted February 6, 2006 Charles,You're not likely to find CAIG products in those stores; look in electronics supply stores (not many left, I know) or online. Fry's Electronics stocks it.CAIG recommends a 2-step process: 1) DeOxit, 2) Pro Gold. I've been using DeOxit for years and can attest that its magical effect does wear off, sometimes too quickly. I've never tried Pro Gold but it's supposed to be more of a lube/preservative and extend the DeOxit benefit.Sprays are messy and always seem to come out too fast, even through the red extension tube. I think a brush is ideal provided you can reach the contact areas; otherwise you're spraying. I use a can of compressed air to remove excess fluid and dry the inevitable run-off. Be sure to work the control on/off, min/max, etc while the DeOxit is wet. For badly oxidized parts, two or more applications of DeOxit can help float away the nasty stuff. If you're doing a volume + on/off control, be sure to turn the knob fully ccw (i.e. click into the off posn) to ensure you work the fluid into all parts of the contact surfaces on the potentiometer or you'll have a scratchy volume knob around the zero gain posn (don't ask me how I know this). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete B Posted February 8, 2006 Report Share Posted February 8, 2006 Hi Charles,I was skeptical about these products when I first started using them over 20 years ago, did some investigating and found that there are some unique properties. I was surprised to find that they even enhance the performance of large high current contacts.I used the brush on versions of the original red and blue cramolin for many years. I don't keep up with what's going on at Caig however I have heard that they lost the rights to the original formula.Deoxit does also seem to be a good product for unplated contacts. The ProGold versions are intended for gold plated materials.Another thing to note is that there are 100% versions and 5% with the 5% intended IIRC for pots.Here is more information:http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.18/category.238/.fThe MSD sheets:http://store.caig.com/s.nl/sc.18/category.233/.fThe products are overpriced IMO, but they do seem to work well.Pete B. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ron Posted February 8, 2006 Report Share Posted February 8, 2006 Hi,I've been using CRC "QD Contact Cleaner" to repair some pots on a pair of AR3s. I've been working it into the pots from outside the box (turning the dials) and the process has taken a very long time. Does anyone have any comparative experience with the CRC deoxidizer and Deoxit? Thanks,Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynaco_dan Posted February 8, 2006 Report Share Posted February 8, 2006 >Hi,>>I've been using CRC "QD Contact Cleaner" to repair>some pots on a pair of AR3s. I've been working it into the>pots from outside the box (turning the dials) and the process>has taken a very long time. Does anyone have any comparative>experience with the CRC deoxidizer and Deoxit? >>Thanks,>>RonHi Ron;Do not continue doing what you are doing with that cleaner.If you see how they are made, you are not doing a very efficient cleaning job.At the very least, you should remove the woofers, and spray into the side openings of the pots.I have never had to do this, but the access to the pots from just he shaft opening is not very reliable, especially when you can't see where the fluid is going.If we could soak the pots, that is a different story.In my write-up previously, I mentioned this method as a concern of mine as to the overflow running and causing material degradation of the crossover or woofer materials.I serviced heating equipment for a period of time and the manufacturers recommended a few drops of SAE 20 motor oil for the motors.More than once, the motors were dripping with surplus drops or ounces.DeOxit, or the older Cramolin version, appears to be the best product to use.Some have posted pictures of pots that were polished with Dremel tools.At least one other member suggested using a conductive automotive grease.Other ideas may come forth, but do not buy l-pads as replacements.Great question Ron, you not the only member to want to improve your speakers.Good luck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Ron Posted February 9, 2006 Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 Vern,Thanks so much for your help. The issues that you're raising are significant. The thing that I'm facing has to do with these speakers being in very good condition, with original grills still intact. I'm reluctant to remove the grills as that appears to be more or less impossible to do without damaging the frames and the original cloth (I confess: I'm an architect and, in addition to being amazed by the sound that comes out of the AR3s I really like their appearance...I live in a house that was designed in 1960 and they fit right in). In other words, I'm trying to get the pots in shape without opening the cabinets. So far I've at least been able to establish contacts through the pots but they're still very fickle.By the way, I'm new to these speakers and this forum; I regularly encounter your excellent opinions on this site as I am introduced to what I have in these speakers. Thanks very much for your many comments and insights. I've rarely, if ever, seen a discussion forum as productive as this one.Regards,Ron Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynaco_dan Posted February 9, 2006 Report Share Posted February 9, 2006 >Vern,>>Thanks so much for your help. The issues that you're raising>are significant. If I thought you would be 100% successful with the rear pot shaft access, I wouldn't have said anything.I wrote previously of my concern of over lubing, the possibility of excess liquid/solvent running into the crossover components, and/or reaching the woofers cone/surround material and possibly deteriorating these.More importantly of all, not reaching the contact and wire coil inside the pot.I know there is, at what topic I don't know in the AR section, photos of pots open and closed that will give you some idea how they are constructed.By the way new, original new OEM pots are not available, and L-pads are NOT the equivalent.I am sure you are being very careful, and there is lots of fiberglas insulation, but, "Murphy's Law", says, that one drop is going to find that woofer or maybe attack the capacitors insulation, maybe.The thing that I'm facing has to do with>these speakers being in very good condition, with original>grills still intact.Very nice to see this comment. Smile. Hot glued on solidly, but not impossible to very carefully remove.More detailed suggestions regarding what steps to do to remove the (no longer available) grill cloths will be forthcoming from others. They may have been suggested already but there is an overwhelming amount of area to search in the AR section.Perhaps someone more experienced with searching in these sections can suggest how to search for helpful ideas as to how to remove the AR grill cloths.I'm reluctant to remove the grills as>that appears to be more or less impossible to do without>damaging the frames and the original cloth (I confess: I'm an>architect and, in addition to being amazed by the sound that>comes out of the AR3s I really like their appearance...Join the crowd, Ron.I am glad you said that rather than butcher the cloth, frame and speaker cabinet, and then asked us for help, thank you very much.It is so nice to read of someone else who really cares so much about such a nice piece of history.I read your writing as you are a gentle person, not an aggressive one.I live>in a house that was designed in 1960 and they fit right in).>In other words, I'm trying to get the pots in shape without>opening the cabinets. Sorry, but this is the only sure fire way to get access to the pots.So far I've at least been able to>establish contacts through the pots but they're still very>fickle.Usually, just turning the pots back and forth a few times will temporarily create a decent contact.>By the way, I'm new to these speakers and this forum; I>regularly encounter your excellent opinions on this site as I>am introduced to what I have in these speakers. Thanks very>much for your many comments and insights. I've rarely, if>ever, seen a discussion forum as productive as this one.>>Regards,>>Ron>Thank you for your very kind comments, Ron, very much makes my day.Good topic and Good luck, Ron. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest danamc Posted February 16, 2006 Report Share Posted February 16, 2006 Actually I spoke with the technician at AB Tech today. AB Tech is the authorized warranty repair service company for AR in the US. The tech said to spray a little De-oxit into the gap around the dial for the Highs and Mids and work the dial back and forth if your pots are a scratchy. Otheriwse just work the dial back and forth every couple of weeks to prevent oxides from forming. Good luck!Dana Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Bret Posted February 16, 2006 Report Share Posted February 16, 2006 >Actually I spoke with the technician at AB Tech today. AB Tech is the authorized warranty repair service company for AR in the US.<Did you ask him when he did this the last time that it worked?Bret Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dynaco_dan Posted February 16, 2006 Report Share Posted February 16, 2006 >>Actually I spoke with the technician at AB Tech today. AB>Tech is the authorized warranty repair service company for AR>in the US.<>>Did you ask him when he did this the last time that it>worked?>>BretHi there;I wouldn't waste my time trying to Deoxit the pots that way, even if the pot was in my hand.I was a service tech for 40 years, and I agree with everyones wise suggestions here, but not AB Tech's, on this point at least.If you saw how the pots were designed, you would see why you have been receiving such good and competent detailed help.Access through the woofer opening, will allow you to access the side openings of the pots, at least, without removing them. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.