AR-LST

[frankmarsi]

Regarding the AR-LST

Has anyone a suggestion as to how to do a neat and presentable restoration of LST tweeters. I purchased the AB-Tech units, however their replacement is rear connected,my LST is front connected. I considered drilling a small hole for 22 awg wire from the rear tweeter terminal and then connecting it to the front cabinet face terminals? There-in lies another problem, which of the three front terminals is positive or negative? Filling the small whole with silicone to make a seal, but then tacking down(maybe worse than AR's method of blk. tape) the short run of 22 awg wire which might look unsightly?

I'd rather not unscrew the cabinet's rear panel and have to deal with that nasty filler and make this a many days long event, I have many to do. If I gotta go that far it'll only delay things as I may then consider replacing caps,wires, etc. I'm still not sure as to the polarity in any event, as I've forgotten most of my basic electricity.

Anyone have any ideas?

Much appreciated, Frank Marsi

P.S. Any bright ideas as to how to make the LST grilles from scratch, mine are missing, or anyone have any to sell, I need 4 sets. I'm able enough to measure the enclosure openings, cut real thin masonite or something, stretch fabric, but that again is labor and I want a 'quick-fix'.I need to get back to listening to music.

Thanks.

[Guest dogmeninreno]

Frank, I have lots of LST/AR3a (4 0hm) tweeters that are front wired and in fine condition. How many do you need and my email is: duffydog1234@sbcglobal.net

I can fabricate you some grills for the LST's. I have fabric that is very close to the original and would be glad to send you a sample. If you made the forms, It would save a bit but I can do both if you are interested. You mentioned 4 sets? How many LST's are you restoring? Each LST speaker requires 3 grill panels. Let me know?

Dale in Reno....

[Guest dogmeninreno]

Forgot to include, I would not be interested in trade for the AB Tech replacements without specs..Dale

[ninohernes]

This is a bit off topic but, would you happen to have a pair of AR-3 midrange drivers for a reasonable price? I have been looking for a pair for a restoration I am working on, and I would rather have originals over the AB tech replacements. Also, the AB replacements are really expensive!

[RoyC]

Hey Dale,

Can you post a photo of your grille cloth? I emailed you about it (twice) and you did not respond.

Roy

[Guest dogmeninreno]

>Hey Dale,

>

>Can you post a photo of your grille cloth? I emailed you about

>it (twice) and you did not respond.

>

>Roy

>

I sure can but it is better if I send you a sample of the linen. How about an address duffydog1234@sbcglobal.net

[Guest dogmeninreno]

>This is a bit off topic but, would you happen to have a pair

>of AR-3 midrange drivers for a reasonable price? I have been

>looking for a pair for a restoration I am working on, and I

>would rather have originals over the AB tech replacements.

>Also, the AB replacements are really expensive!

I don't know if the inquiry was for me but none the less, I have several 4 ohm mids in great condition for the AR3/3a's. $38.00ea. Shipping extra but not to exceed $8.00 for both via USPS Priority mail 3-4 day service. Let me know, Dale PS: Photos if you want..

[RoyC]

Thanks Dale,

I just sent an email to you with my address.

Roy

[dynaco_dan]

>Regarding the AR-LST

>Has anyone a suggestion as to how to do a neat and presentable

>restoration of LST tweeters. I purchased the AB-Tech units,

>however their replacement is rear connected,my LST is front

>connected. I considered drilling a small hole for 22 awg wire

>from the rear tweeter terminal and then connecting it to the

>front cabinet face terminals? There-in lies another problem,

>which of the three front terminals is positive or negative?

>Filling the small whole with silicone to make a seal, but then

>tacking down(maybe worse than AR's method of blk. tape) the

>short run of 22 awg wire which might look unsightly?

>I'd rather not unscrew the cabinet's rear panel and have to

>deal with that nasty filler and make this a many days long

>event, I have many to do. If I gotta go that far it'll only

>delay things as I may then consider replacing caps,wires, etc.

>I'm still not sure as to the polarity in any event, as I've

>forgotten most of my basic electricity.

>Anyone have any ideas?

>Much appreciated, Frank Marsi

>P.S. Any bright ideas as to how to make the LST grilles from

>scratch, mine are missing, or anyone have any to sell, I need

>4 sets. I'm able enough to measure the enclosure openings, cut

>real thin masonite or something, stretch fabric, but that

>again is labor and I want a 'quick-fix'.I need to get back to

>listening to music.

>Thanks.

Hi Frank;

I'm late as usual to reply to your original question for ideas.

I was faced with the same dilema 10 or so years ago. The replacement tweeters were also rear connections and the LST's were also front wired.

My solution was to use brass quick connects with the wires soldered to these, and running the two leads in parallel up through the putty ledge. The frame of the tweeters were plastic, so a short was not a concern. There is the notches to be filed on each side of the tweeter opening, but that wasn't difficult at all. I laid the wires on the surface and taped over them. One would have a difficult time seeing that this was not a factory installation.

I think I copied the LST wiring schematic to a topic months ago when I was sick.

I hope this is of some help to you and gives you at least another option.

Good luck with your project, Frank.

[RoyC]

I have no experience with the LST, but I do know that the postive side of the front-wired tweeters is the same as that of the back-wired. It is the left side of the dome as viewed from the front.

It can be confusing because the front-wired + tinsel lead was many times crossed over to the right side under electrical tape (at least in the AR-3a and AR-5 of that era). See attached photo. To confuse matters further, AR would typically place the + symbol, if at all, on the right side where the tinsel lead emerges from under the tape.

The + tinsel lead is attached to the center cabinet surface terminal in the AR-3a and AR-5.

If you can get a glimpse of the installed old LST tweeters this info may be of assistance..

Roy

[RoyC]

I borrowed this photo from the forum For Sale section.

It shows the + symbol where the + tinsel lead has crossed over the - lead under the tape. The proper LST terminal connections is another matter....

Roy

[frankmarsi]

>>Regarding the AR-LST

>>Has anyone a suggestion as to how to do a neat and

>presentable

>>restoration of LST tweeters. I purchased the AB-Tech units,

>>however their replacement is rear connected,my LST is front

>>connected. I considered drilling a small hole for 22 awg

>wire

>>from the rear tweeter terminal and then connecting it to the

>>front cabinet face terminals? There-in lies another problem,

>>which of the three front terminals is positive or negative?

>>Filling the small whole with silicone to make a seal, but

>then

>>tacking down(maybe worse than AR's method of blk. tape) the

>>short run of 22 awg wire which might look unsightly?

>>I'd rather not unscrew the cabinet's rear panel and have to

>>deal with that nasty filler and make this a many days long

>>event, I have many to do. If I gotta go that far it'll only

>>delay things as I may then consider replacing caps,wires,

>etc.

>>I'm still not sure as to the polarity in any event, as I've

>>forgotten most of my basic electricity.

>>Anyone have any ideas?

>>Much appreciated, Frank Marsi

>>P.S. Any bright ideas as to how to make the LST grilles from

>>scratch, mine are missing, or anyone have any to sell, I

>need

>>4 sets. I'm able enough to measure the enclosure openings,

>cut

>>real thin masonite or something, stretch fabric, but that

>>again is labor and I want a 'quick-fix'.I need to get back

>to

>>listening to music.

>>Thanks.

>

>

>Hi Frank;

>

>I'm late as usual to reply to your original question for

>ideas.

>

>I was faced with the same dilema 10 or so years ago. The

>replacement tweeters were also rear connections and the LST's

>were also front wired.

>

>My solution was to use brass quick connects with the wires

>soldered to these, and running the two leads in parallel up

>through the putty ledge. The frame of the tweeters were

>plastic, so a short was not a concern. There is the notches to

>be filed on each side of the tweeter opening, but that wasn't

>difficult at all. I laid the wires on the surface and taped

>over them. One would have a difficult time seeing that this

>was not a factory installation.

>

>I think I copied the LST wiring schematic to a topic months

>ago when I was sick.

>

>I hope this is of some help to you and gives you at least

>another option.

>

>Good luck with your project, Frank.

Hey! It sounds like very thin wire not to make a difference along side the actual tweeter body itself. I was talking about using 22awg wire that's plastic cased, it'll never make without distorting the body of the tweeter itself, that's why I thought drilling a separate little hole alongside the tweeter and attaching from there

. I'm still stumped about the actual polarity though.

Is there some available 'tinsel' type of wire anywhere that I can get?

Then it'll be no problem. Let me know.

Thanks, Frank Marsi

[dynaco_dan]

>>>Regarding the AR-LST

>>>Has anyone a suggestion as to how to do a neat and

>>presentable

>>>restoration of LST tweeters. I purchased the AB-Tech units,

>>>however their replacement is rear connected,my LST is front

>>>connected. I considered drilling a small hole for 22 awg

>>wire

>>>from the rear tweeter terminal and then connecting it to

>the

>>>front cabinet face terminals? There-in lies another

>problem,

>>>which of the three front terminals is positive or negative?

>>>Filling the small whole with silicone to make a seal, but

>>then

>>>tacking down(maybe worse than AR's method of blk. tape) the

>>>short run of 22 awg wire which might look unsightly?

>>>I'd rather not unscrew the cabinet's rear panel and have to

>>>deal with that nasty filler and make this a many days long

>>>event, I have many to do. If I gotta go that far it'll only

>>>delay things as I may then consider replacing caps,wires,

>>etc.

>>>I'm still not sure as to the polarity in any event, as I've

>>>forgotten most of my basic electricity.

>>>Anyone have any ideas?

>>>Much appreciated, Frank Marsi

>>>P.S. Any bright ideas as to how to make the LST grilles

>from

>>>scratch, mine are missing, or anyone have any to sell, I

>>need

>>>4 sets. I'm able enough to measure the enclosure openings,

>>cut

>>>real thin masonite or something, stretch fabric, but that

>>>again is labor and I want a 'quick-fix'.I need to get back

>>to

>>>listening to music.

>>>Thanks.

>>

>>

>>Hi Frank;

>>

>>I'm late as usual to reply to your original question for

>>ideas.

>>

>>I was faced with the same dilema 10 or so years ago. The

>>replacement tweeters were also rear connections and the

>LST's

>>were also front wired.

>>

>>My solution was to use brass quick connects with the wires

>>soldered to these, and running the two leads in parallel up

>>through the putty ledge. The frame of the tweeters were

>>plastic, so a short was not a concern. There is the notches

>to

>>be filed on each side of the tweeter opening, but that

>wasn't

>>difficult at all. I laid the wires on the surface and taped

>>over them. One would have a difficult time seeing that this

>>was not a factory installation.

>>

>>I think I copied the LST wiring schematic to a topic months

>>ago when I was sick.

>>

>>I hope this is of some help to you and gives you at least

>>another option.

>>

>>Good luck with your project, Frank.

>

>Hey! It sounds like very thin wire not to make a difference

>along side the actual tweeter body itself. I was talking about

>using 22awg wire that's plastic cased, it'll never make

>without distorting the body of the tweeter itself, that's why

>I thought drilling a separate little hole alongside the

>tweeter and attaching from there

>. I'm still stumped about the actual polarity though.

>Is there some available 'tinsel' type of wire anywhere that I

>can get?

>Then it'll be no problem. Let me know.

>Thanks, Frank Marsi

Hi again Frank;

The wires I used were individual stranded insulated wires and fit into the putty edge with no difficulty at all.

The hole is about 1/8" larger in diameter than the tweeter frame.

Remember the tweeter frames I had were plastic and they have give.

You don't need tinsel wire for this job.

You could use tinsel when working on woofers, extending front wired tweeters or mids.

[frankmarsi]

>>>My solution was to use brass quick connects with the wires

>>>soldered to these, and running the two leads in parallel up

>>>through the putty ledge. The frame of the tweeters were

>>>plastic, so a short was not a concern. There is the notches

>>to

>>>be filed on each side of the tweeter opening, but that

>>wasn't

>>>difficult at all. I laid the wires on the surface and taped

>>>over them. One would have a difficult time seeing that this

>>>was not a factory installation.

>>>

>>>I think I copied the LST wiring schematic to a topic months

>>>ago when I was sick.

>>>

>>>I hope this is of some help to you and gives you at least

>>>another option.

>>>

>>>Good luck with your project, Frank.

>>

>>Hey! It sounds like very thin wire not to make a difference

>>along side the actual tweeter body itself. I was talking

>about

>>using 22awg wire that's plastic cased, it'll never make

>>without distorting the body of the tweeter itself, that's

>why

>>I thought drilling a separate little hole alongside the

>>tweeter and attaching from there

>>. I'm still stumped about the actual polarity though.

>>Is there some available 'tinsel' type of wire anywhere that

>I

>>can get?

>>Then it'll be no problem. Let me know.

>>Thanks, Frank Marsi

>

>Hi again Frank;

>

>The wires I used were individual stranded insulated wires and

>fit into the putty edge with no difficulty at all.

>

>The hole is about 1/8" larger in diameter than the tweeter

>frame.

>

>Remember the tweeter frames I had were plastic and they have

>give.

>

>You don't need tinsel wire for this job.

>

>You could use tinsel when working on woofers, extending front

>wired tweeters or mids.

Hey Vern, what size and type wire do you think would work best?

Actually my first thought was to do just as you've described, but it would involve making a little scoring of the tweeter cabinet or tweeter rim itself in order not to create much of a gap.

Am I making this into a big deal unnecessarily?

Frank Marsi

[dynaco_dan]

>>>>My solution was to use brass quick connects with the

>wires

>>>>soldered to these, and running the two leads in parallel

>up

>>>>through the putty ledge. The frame of the tweeters were

>>>>plastic, so a short was not a concern. There is the

>notches

>>>to

>>>>be filed on each side of the tweeter opening, but that

>>>wasn't

>>>>difficult at all. I laid the wires on the surface and

>taped

>>>>over them. One would have a difficult time seeing that

>this

>>>>was not a factory installation.

>>>>

>>>>I think I copied the LST wiring schematic to a topic

>months

>>>>ago when I was sick.

>>>>

>>>>I hope this is of some help to you and gives you at least

>>>>another option.

>>>>

>>>>Good luck with your project, Frank.

>>>

>>>Hey! It sounds like very thin wire not to make a difference

>>>along side the actual tweeter body itself. I was talking

>>about

>>>using 22awg wire that's plastic cased, it'll never make

>>>without distorting the body of the tweeter itself, that's

>>why

>>>I thought drilling a separate little hole alongside the

>>>tweeter and attaching from there

>>>. I'm still stumped about the actual polarity though.

>>>Is there some available 'tinsel' type of wire anywhere that

>>I

>>>can get?

>>>Then it'll be no problem. Let me know.

>>>Thanks, Frank Marsi

>>

>>Hi again Frank;

>>

>>The wires I used were individual stranded insulated wires

>and

>>fit into the putty edge with no difficulty at all.

>>

>>The hole is about 1/8" larger in diameter than the tweeter

>>frame.

>>

>>Remember the tweeter frames I had were plastic and they have

>>give.

>>

>>You don't need tinsel wire for this job.

>>

>>You could use tinsel when working on woofers, extending

>front

>>wired tweeters or mids.

>

>Hey Vern, what size and type wire do you think would work

>best?

>Actually my first thought was to do just as you've described,

>but it would involve making a little scoring of the tweeter

>cabinet or tweeter rim itself in order not to create much of a

>gap.

>Am I making this into a big deal unnecessarily?

>Frank Marsi

>

Hi again Frank;

If I lied and said I used oxygen free, silver plated wire with teflon insulation it may sound better, BUT the reality is I used off the shelf 22 guage stranded wire.

You don't need to make any allowance for the wires as they lay side by side in the ledge and putty, then tape over the exposed leads.

You do need to notch the tweeter cabinet hole for the tweeter nubs, at least I did.

If you do it right, it looks like a factory job, for sure.

Looking back I didn't even consider any other options.

I didn't solder directly to the tweeter terminals but if you have tested them you may wish to solder direct.

Remember if you solder direct, that probably ends whatever warantee there is.

Back when I did mine I bought some brass quick connects.

Today mostly steel quick connects are available, with maybe the exception of AMP products.

I didn't want steel connectors at least.

Good luck again.

[frankmarsi]

Dale: I don't know about Layne's products, but AR-2ax'x have an 8 ohm impedence. AR-5's had the same midrange as the AR3a, however, they are rated at 8 ohms inside of 4 ohms. I'm not looking to trade my new AB-Tech tweeters, was looking for a schematic with polarity information for them.

Regards,FM

[frankmarsi]

Vern, You're very helpful and kind to offer your advice and experience.

When I first pondered this situation I easily saw the possibilities.

The first was to do exactly as you descibed. I was just fearful the wires would force the tweeter body to bend too much and over time 'pull' at the glues etc. on the dome. After much thought, the 'notching' is the only way to go. So in so-many words I agree with you completely. Great minds do think alike, don't they?

Would you like to see photos of the finished job?

Sincerely, Frank Marsi

P.S. I may have to do the same operation to my AR-3a's, and 2ax's.

[dynaco_dan]

>Vern, You're very helpful and kind to offer your advice and

>experience.

>When I first pondered this situation I easily saw the

>possibilities.

>The first was to do exactly as you descibed. I was just

>fearful the wires would force the tweeter body to bend too

>much and over time 'pull' at the glues etc. on the dome. After

>much thought, the 'notching' is the only way to go. So in

>so-many words I agree with you completely. Great minds do

>think alike, don't they?

>Would you like to see photos of the finished job?

>Sinerely, Frank Marsi

>P.S. I may have to do the same operation to my AR-3a's, and

>2ax's.

Hi again Frank;

The notching I was referring to was for the tweeter body clearance only.

If you look at the round portion that penetrates the hole, at least with my versions, there was on opposing sides, a ridge, that required a slight notching of the cabinet hole for the body to drop in.

The wires will not cause you any concern as they follow the flow of the putty, I am assuming the insulation on your wires is standard and not thick, such as, lampcord.

I found that no notching or special treatment for the wires was necessary, except that they lay side by side and not a twisted pair.

A photo of your finished effort would be great to see.

Good luck again.

[aquila2010]

>Regarding the AR-LST

>

>I purchased the AB-Tech units

> Frank Marsi

Hi Frank

Could you please post some photos (front and rear) of the AB-tech tweeters for LST?

When did you get them?

How are they labelled?

Thank you

 

[frankmarsi]

>>Regarding the AR-LST

>>

>>I purchased the AB-Tech units

>> Frank Marsi

>

>Hi Frank

>

>Could you please post some photos (front and rear) of the

>AB-tech tweeters for LST?

>When did you get them?

>How are they labelled?

>

>Thank you

>

>Aquila

Hey Aquila, I don't have a digital camera to show photos with,but they are simple in design and construction. They actually look really good though. They're rear wired, which is a problem for me as all of my speakers are earlier front wired. I asked for other's ideas about this and have recieved only a few responses from members. My thanks to all who responded to me though.I'm happy to have joined the group. There's really only one way and it involves a little massaging sort of speak to get them in. I mean how else can one expect to accomplish such a feat?

My speakers are almost 34 years old now.Who else except 'us' lovers of the sound quality from our youth would be crazy enough to deal with such things in life.As you drive down your local streets on Saturday or Sundays, do you see any car hoods up and guys changing spark-plugs or oil? No, cause the culture has changed for better or worse and you and I don't have a chance of insisting people now do things the way we did things 30-40 years ago. This fellowship of AR and Phase Linear and any other quality names of middle class entertainment equipment is lost in time and purveyors of the past are rare and few. Let's be realistic, how long is Ebay gonna offer things of this nature?

If you are really into the AR sound and have limited funds as I do you haven't much of a choice but to change some components and hope the sound is similar to the past. Regarding buying used on EBay and such I tried that and got burned by these 'butchers' who are cutting up AR products for profit. It seems the only recourse is AB-Tech and those one or two other places. It is not so bad cause the original AR tweeter was too frail and frustrating to live with in terms of the burn-out factor fear. I've had my AR-3a's since 1972 as new, paid $196.00 each from a discount place in Brooklyn called 'Stereo Corporation of America', which no doubt is long gone,but I found them in the back of High Fidelity Magazine in late 1971.I'm afraid you may have no choice my friend?

Sincerely, Lost in the 60's, 70's and 80's, Frank Marsi

[dynaco_dan]

>>>Regarding the AR-LST

>>>

>>>I purchased the AB-Tech units

>>> Frank Marsi

>>

>>Hi Frank

>>

>>Could you please post some photos (front and rear) of the

>>AB-tech tweeters for LST?

>>When did you get them?

>>How are they labelled?

>>

>>Thank you

>>

>>Aquila

>

>

>Hey Aquila, I don't have a digital camera to show photos

>with,but they are simple in design and construction. They

>actually look really good though. They're rear wired, which is

>a problem for me as all of my speakers are earlier front

>wired. I asked for other's ideas about this and have recieved

>only a few responses from memebers. My thanks to all who

>responded to me though.I'm happy to have joined the group.

>There's really only one way and it involves a little

>'messaging' sort of speak to get them in. I mean how else can

>one expect to accomblish such a feat?

>My speakers are almost 34 years old now.Who else except 'us'

>lovers of the sound quality from our youth would be crazy

>enough to deal with such things in life.As you drive down your

>local streets on Saturday or Sundays, do you see any car hoods

>up and guys changing spark-plugs or oil? No, cause the culture

>has changed for better or worse and you and I don't have a

>chance of insisting people now do things the way we did things

>30-40 years ago. This fellowship of AR and Phase Linear and

>any other quality names of middle class entertainment

>equipment is lost in time and purveyors of the past are rare

>and few. Let's be realistic, how long is Ebay gonna offer

>things of this nature?

>If you are really into the AR sound and have limited funds as

>I do you haven't much of a choice but to change some

>components and hope the sound is similiar to the past.

>Regarding buying used on EBay and such I tried that and got

>burned by these 'butchers' who are cutting up AR products for

>profit. It seems the only recourse is AB-Tech and those one or

>two other places. It is not so bad cause the original AR

>tweeter was too frail and frustrating to live with in terms of

>the burn-out factor fear. I've had my AR-3a's since 1972 as

>new, paid $196.00 each from a discount place in Brooklyn

>called 'Stereo Corporation of America', which no doubt is long

>gone,but I found them in the back of High Fidelity Magazine in

>late 1971.I'm afraid you may have no choice my friend?

>Sincerely, Lost in the 60's, 70's and 80's, Frank Marsi

Hi again;

I have done the ebay route and have had a high rate of success in receiving functional drivers.

Particularly bad packaging in specific area's of a few shipments were the exception.

AR-4X cones up against bubblewrap may sound safe but I found out the perimeter of the cone has sticky adhesive still after all these years.

Needless to say when I un-rolled the tweeter the first time the cone came off.

On the dome tweeters AR-3 style, you can probably fire them out of a cannon and the body will be intact, the domes un-fortunately are like eggshells and I've received several where the domes were not protected and in one case the seller said at least I received one good one out of the two.

Unfortunately I am on meds and am getting forgetfull.

One seller left the front terminal strips attached and these were anchored and when the AR 3/4" from mounted tweeter rotated in the sterifoam support the wires were ripped out of the domes.

Quite upsetting to see as we all know they are not replaceable with new products.

We will be seeing butchers cut up cabinets and sell the separates instead of the complete speakers.

We will be seeing more of this as shipping costs go up.

If you were to give me a pair of mint AR-3A cabinets less drivers they would still cost me around $100.00 plus deliverd.

Even AR-4X's cost $25 - 30 US to ship here each economy, air is about 50% more.

Check out the ebays sellers record for one or trust some one like Dale in Reno.

I have read more than one time where someone has bought a new driver and went back to an older version, I believe this was a 12" woofer though.

Good luck with your choices and please keep us up to date.

[dynaco_dan]

>>>>Regarding the AR-LST

>>>>

>>>>I purchased the AB-Tech units

>>>> Frank Marsi

>>>

>>>Hi Frank

>>>

>>>Could you please post some photos (front and rear) of the

>>>AB-tech tweeters for LST?

>>>When did you get them?

>>>How are they labelled?

>>>

>>>Thank you

>>>

>>>Aquila

>>

>>

>>Hey Aquila, I don't have a digital camera to show photos

>>with,but they are simple in design and construction. They

>>actually look really good though. They're rear wired, which

>is

>>a problem for me as all of my speakers are earlier front

>>wired. I asked for other's ideas about this and have

>recieved

>>only a few responses from memebers. My thanks to all who

>>responded to me though.I'm happy to have joined the group.

>>There's really only one way and it involves a little

>>'messaging' sort of speak to get them in. I mean how else

>can

>>one expect to accomblish such a feat?

>>My speakers are almost 34 years old now.Who else except 'us'

>>lovers of the sound quality from our youth would be crazy

>>enough to deal with such things in life.As you drive down

>your

>>local streets on Saturday or Sundays, do you see any car

>hoods

>>up and guys changing spark-plugs or oil? No, cause the

>culture

>>has changed for better or worse and you and I don't have a

>>chance of insisting people now do things the way we did

>things

>>30-40 years ago. This fellowship of AR and Phase Linear and

>>any other quality names of middle class entertainment

>>equipment is lost in time and purveyors of the past are rare

>>and few. Let's be realistic, how long is Ebay gonna offer

>>things of this nature?

>>If you are really into the AR sound and have limited funds

>as

>>I do you haven't much of a choice but to change some

>>components and hope the sound is similiar to the past.

>>Regarding buying used on EBay and such I tried that and got

>>burned by these 'butchers' who are cutting up AR products

>for

>>profit. It seems the only recourse is AB-Tech and those one

>or

>>two other places. It is not so bad cause the original AR

>>tweeter was too frail and frustrating to live with in terms

>of

>>the burn-out factor fear. I've had my AR-3a's since 1972 as

>>new, paid $196.00 each from a discount place in Brooklyn

>>called 'Stereo Corporation of America', which no doubt is

>long

>>gone,but I found them in the back of High Fidelity Magazine

>in

>>late 1971.I'm afraid you may have no choice my friend?

>>Sincerely, Lost in the 60's, 70's and 80's, Frank Marsi

>

>

>Hi again;

>

>I have done the ebay route and have had a high rate of success

>in receiving functional drivers.

>

>Particularly bad packaging in specific area's of a few

>shipments were the exception.

>

>AR-4X cones up against bubblewrap may sound safe but I found

>out the perimeter of the cone has sticky adhesive still after

>all these years.

>

>Needless to say when I un-rolled the tweeter the first time

>the cone came off.

>

>On the dome tweeters AR-3 style, you can probably fire them

>out of a cannon and the body will be intact, the domes

>un-fortunately are like eggshells and I've received several

>where the domes were not protected and in one case the seller

>said at least I received one good one out of the two.

>

>Unfortunately I am on meds and am getting forgetfull.

>

>One seller left the front terminal strips attached and these

>were anchored and when the AR 3/4" from mounted tweeter

>rotated in the sterifoam support the wires were ripped out of

>the domes.

>

>Quite upsetting to see as we all know they are not replaceable

>with new products.

>

>We will be seeing butchers cut up cabinets and sell the

>separates instead of the complete speakers.

>

>We will be seeing more of this as shipping costs go up.

>

>If you were to give me a pair of mint AR-3A cabinets less

>drivers they would still cost me around $100.00 plus

>deliverd.

>

>Even AR-4X's cost $25 - 30 US to ship here each economy, air

>is about 50% more.

>

>Check out the ebays sellers record for one or trust some one

>like Dale in Reno.

>

>I have read more than one time where someone has bought a new

>driver and went back to an older version, I believe this was a

>12" woofer though.

>

>Good luck with your choices and please keep us up to date.

Hi again Frank;

After going back and re-reading your original topic a few minutes ago, I would now suggest not doing the grill cloths.

Yes, they are not the most beautiful speaker without a grill cloth, but the highs are slightly less restricted.

[frankmarsi]

>>>

>>>Hey Aquila, I don't have a digital camera to show photos

>>>with,but they are simple in design and construction. They

>>>actually look really good though. They're rear wired, which

>>is

>>>a problem for me as all of my speakers are earlier front

>>>wired. I asked for other's ideas about this and have

>>recieved

>>>only a few responses from members. My thanks to all who

>>>responded to me though.I'm happy to have joined the group.

>>>There's really only one way and it involves a little

>>>'messaging' sort of speak to get them in. I mean how else

>>can

>>>one expect to accomblish such a feat?

>>>My speakers are almost 34 years old now.Who else except

>'us'

>>>lovers of the sound quality from our youth would be crazy

>>>enough to deal with such things in life.As you drive down

>>your

>>>local streets on Saturday or Sundays, do you see any car

>>hoods

>>>up and guys changing spark-plugs or oil? No, cause the

>>culture

>>>has changed for better or worse and you and I don't have a

>>>chance of insisting people now do things the way we did

>>things

>>>30-40 years ago. This fellowship of AR and Phase Linear and

>>>any other quality names of middle class entertainment

>>>equipment is lost in time and purveyors of the past are

>rare

>>>and few. Let's be realistic, how long is Ebay gonna offer

>>>things of this nature?

>>>If you are really into the AR sound and have limited funds

>>as

>>>I do you haven't much of a choice but to change some

>>>components and hope the sound is similiar to the past.

>>>Regarding buying used on EBay and such I tried that and got

>>>burned by these 'butchers' who are cutting up AR products

>>for

>>>profit. It seems the only recourse is AB-Tech and those one

>>or

>>>two other places. It is not so bad cause the original AR

>>>tweeter was too frail and frustrating to live with in terms

>>of

>>>the burn-out factor fear. I've had my AR-3a's since 1972 as

>>>new, paid $196.00 each from a discount place in Brooklyn

>>>called 'Stereo Corporation of America', which no doubt is

>>long

>>>gone,but I found them in the back of High Fidelity Magazine

>>in

>>>late 1971.I'm afraid you may have no choice my friend?

>>>Sincerely, Lost in the 60's, 70's and 80's, Frank Marsi

>>

>>

>>Hi again;

>>

>>I have done the ebay route and have had a high rate of

>success

>>in receiving functional drivers.

>>

>>Particularly bad packaging in specific area's of a few

>>shipments were the exception.

>>

>>AR-4X cones up against bubblewrap may sound safe but I found

>>out the perimeter of the cone has sticky adhesive still

>after

>>all these years.

>>

>>Needless to say when I un-rolled the tweeter the first time

>>the cone came off.

>>

>>On the dome tweeters AR-3 style, you can probably fire them

>>out of a cannon and the body will be intact, the domes

>>un-fortunately are like eggshells and I've received several

>>where the domes were not protected and in one case the

>seller

>>said at least I received one good one out of the two.

>>

>>Unfortunately I am on meds and am getting forgetfull.

>>

>>One seller left the front terminal strips attached and these

>>were anchored and when the AR 3/4" from mounted tweeter

>>rotated in the sterifoam support the wires were ripped out

>of

>>the domes.

>>

>>Quite upsetting to see as we all know they are not

>replaceable

>>with new products.

>>

>>We will be seeing butchers cut up cabinets and sell the

>>separates instead of the complete speakers.

>>

>>We will be seeing more of this as shipping costs go up.

>>

>>If you were to give me a pair of mint AR-3A cabinets less

>>drivers they would still cost me around $100.00 plus

>>deliverd.

>>

>>Even AR-4X's cost $25 - 30 US to ship here each economy, air

>>is about 50% more.

>>

>>Check out the ebays sellers record for one or trust some one

>>like Dale in Reno.

>>

>>I have read more than one time where someone has bought a

>new

>>driver and went back to an older version, I believe this was

>a

>>12" woofer though.

>>

>>Good luck with your choices and please keep us up to date.

>

>

>Hi again Frank;

>

>After going back and re-reading your original topic a few

>minutes ago, I would now suggest not doing the grill cloths.

>

>Yes, they are not the most beautiful speaker without a grill

>cloth, but the highs are slightly less restricted.

Vern, Dale, and all,(tom and associates, I know you're watching, as elementary as this stuff all is to you) it's crazy that my first experience on EBay about 1 1/2 year ago was very similiar to your bad ones. I was always afraid about mail-order and buying something solely on some else's word. Long story short, the 2 tweeters were half-ass packed face to face and both domes smashed and gone. I immediately sent them back to seller for a refund and he fabricates a story that I switched my old bad ones with his new ones. I lost my $75.plus and 2 smashed tweeters. He then gives me negative remarks on Ebay, he still sings free as a bird on Ebay and they permit it without regard to all my pleading this guy was a criminal.I will post his name soon, as he's still thriving. But Vern, you're correct again; about the speakers looking ugly as no layman or relative seems to understand about these things as I do. However even I would like to see the cloth grills and badges once in a while, the original beige and the wood certainly contrast well together. That raw tech look gets to me sometimes when my mind's eye likes to see everything around me as 'smooth' and peaceful. I just want sound and not look for it coming out of raw drivers always facing me as I've been doing it for over 40 years now watching and feeling cones vibrate to assure me I'm still alive and I'm doing the right thing.

One afternoon as I strolled out of my studio on Broadway in 'NoHo',between Bleeker and Houston Street, I jumped across the street to "Stereo-Exhange" to see what Bernie had sitting around. There in his front window were 2 Cello Amati's with grills that seemed to be made of black plastic window screening. I had acquired mine 4 years prior to that, so I knew what they should look like. But these guys were the same only newer, I didn't know anything about these being 'remakes' of LST's. I walked in and the wallowing sales man told me they were going for $4,000 a piece, used, this being 1991, I was shocked.

I proceeded to buy black screening and in 2 days of extra careful measuring (twice) and cutting (once) I managed to make mine look almost as good as what Bernie wanted $8 grand for. Mine still look good, although the grills are a little droopy. Without frames the screening hooks onto the velcro and stays there.I then decided to locate and actually speak to Mark Levinson, yep left him a message on his machine, he called back, gees was I thrilled. I told him I had some AR-LST's I wanted to restore and he said his tweeters were $90. each wholesale, but that I'd do better calling AR direct. I did and they were $40 each, still high for a newly married man in 1991 as I needed about 6 of them,I bought two, still have them and they're really nice.I'm angry I didn't buy more cause I would still have them and she's gone anyway!

Speaking of rip off's. I just today stupidly bought 2 AR3a's on EBay and after I slapped my card down the seller tells me they're not what I think there are and is not insuring them and sending them by the Post Office. They looked really good and completely original on the screen here. I'm expecting them in about a week, I'll keep this site posted, but I'm scared sh--less that I got ripped off again.

I'll sign off now and go do some listening to vinyl, followed by CD.

Frank Marsi

 

[dynaco_dan]

>>>>

>>>>Hey Aquila, I don't have a digital camera to show photos

>>>>with,but they are simple in design and construction. They

>>>>actually look really good though. They're rear wired,

>which

>>>is

>>>>a problem for me as all of my speakers are earlier front

>>>>wired. I asked for other's ideas about this and have

>>>recieved

>>>>only a few responses from members. My thanks to all who

>>>>responded to me though.I'm happy to have joined the group.

>>>>There's really only one way and it involves a little

>>>>'messaging' sort of speak to get them in. I mean how else

>>>can

>>>>one expect to accomblish such a feat?

>>>>My speakers are almost 34 years old now.Who else except

>>'us'

>>>>lovers of the sound quality from our youth would be crazy

>>>>enough to deal with such things in life.As you drive down

>>>your

>>>>local streets on Saturday or Sundays, do you see any car

>>>hoods

>>>>up and guys changing spark-plugs or oil? No, cause the

>>>culture

>>>>has changed for better or worse and you and I don't have a

>>>>chance of insisting people now do things the way we did

>>>things

>>>>30-40 years ago. This fellowship of AR and Phase Linear

>and

>>>>any other quality names of middle class entertainment

>>>>equipment is lost in time and purveyors of the past are

>>rare

>>>>and few. Let's be realistic, how long is Ebay gonna offer

>>>>things of this nature?

>>>>If you are really into the AR sound and have limited funds

>>>as

>>>>I do you haven't much of a choice but to change some

>>>>components and hope the sound is similiar to the past.

>>>>Regarding buying used on EBay and such I tried that and

>got

>>>>burned by these 'butchers' who are cutting up AR products

>>>for

>>>>profit. It seems the only recourse is AB-Tech and those

>one

>>>or

>>>>two other places. It is not so bad cause the original AR

>>>>tweeter was too frail and frustrating to live with in

>terms

>>>of

>>>>the burn-out factor fear. I've had my AR-3a's since 1972

>as

>>>>new, paid $196.00 each from a discount place in Brooklyn

>>>>called 'Stereo Corporation of America', which no doubt is

>>>long

>>>>gone,but I found them in the back of High Fidelity

>Magazine

>>>in

>>>>late 1971.I'm afraid you may have no choice my friend?

>>>>Sincerely, Lost in the 60's, 70's and 80's, Frank Marsi

>>>

>>>

>>>Hi again;

>>>

>>>I have done the ebay route and have had a high rate of

>>success

>>>in receiving functional drivers.

>>>

>>>Particularly bad packaging in specific area's of a few

>>>shipments were the exception.

>>>

>>>AR-4X cones up against bubblewrap may sound safe but I

>found

>>>out the perimeter of the cone has sticky adhesive still

>>after

>>>all these years.

>>>

>>>Needless to say when I un-rolled the tweeter the first time

>>>the cone came off.

>>>

>>>On the dome tweeters AR-3 style, you can probably fire them

>>>out of a cannon and the body will be intact, the domes

>>>un-fortunately are like eggshells and I've received several

>>>where the domes were not protected and in one case the

>>seller

>>>said at least I received one good one out of the two.

>>>

>>>Unfortunately I am on meds and am getting forgetfull.

>>>

>>>One seller left the front terminal strips attached and

>these

>>>were anchored and when the AR 3/4" from mounted tweeter

>>>rotated in the sterifoam support the wires were ripped out

>>of

>>>the domes.

>>>

>>>Quite upsetting to see as we all know they are not

>>replaceable

>>>with new products.

>>>

>>>We will be seeing butchers cut up cabinets and sell the

>>>separates instead of the complete speakers.

>>>

>>>We will be seeing more of this as shipping costs go up.

>>>

>>>If you were to give me a pair of mint AR-3A cabinets less

>>>drivers they would still cost me around $100.00 plus

>>>deliverd.

>>>

>>>Even AR-4X's cost $25 - 30 US to ship here each economy,

>air

>>>is about 50% more.

>>>

>>>Check out the ebays sellers record for one or trust some

>one

>>>like Dale in Reno.

>>>

>>>I have read more than one time where someone has bought a

>>new

>>>driver and went back to an older version, I believe this

>was

>>a

>>>12" woofer though.

>>>

>>>Good luck with your choices and please keep us up to date.

>>

>>

>>Hi again Frank;

>>

>>After going back and re-reading your original topic a few

>>minutes ago, I would now suggest not doing the grill cloths.

>>

>>Yes, they are not the most beautiful speaker without a grill

>>cloth, but the highs are slightly less restricted.

>

>

>Vern, Dale, and all,(tom and associates, I know you're

>watching, as elementary as this stuff all is to you) it's

>crazy that my first experience on EBay about 1 1/2 year ago

>was very similiar to your bad ones. I was always afraid about

>mail-order and buying something solely on some else's word.

>Long story short, the 2 tweeters were half-ass packed face to

>face and both domes smashed and gone. I immediately sent them

>back to seller for a refund and he fabricates a story that I

>switched my old bad ones with his new ones. I lost my $75.plus

>and 2 smashed tweeters. He then gives me negative remarks on

>Ebay, he still sings free as a bird on Ebay and they permit it

>without regard to all my pleading this guy was a criminal.I

>will post his name soon, as he's still thriving. But Vern,

>you're correct again; about the speakers looking ugly as no

>layman or relative seems to understand about these things as I

>do. However even I would like to see the cloth grills and

>badges once in a while, the original beige and the wood

>certainly contrast well together. That raw tech look gets to

>me sometimes when my mind's eye likes to see everything around

>me as 'smooth' and peaceful. I just want sound and not look

>for it coming out of raw drivers always facing me as I've been

>doing it for over 40 years now watching and feeling cones

>vibrate to assure me I'm still alive and I'm doing the right

>thing.

>One afternoon as I strolled out of my studio on Broadway in

>'NoHo',between Bleeker and Houston Street, I jumped across the

>street to "Stereo-Exhange" to see what Bernie had sitting

>around. There in his front window were 2 Cello Amati's with

>grills that seemed to be made of black plastic window

>screening. I had acquired mine 4 years prior to that, so I

>knew what they should look like. But these guys were the same

>only newer, I didn't know anything about these being 'remakes'

>of LST's. I walked in and the wallowing sales man told me they

>were going for $4,000 a piece, used, this being 1991, I was

>shocked.

> I proceeded to buy black screening and in 2 days of extra

>careful measuring (twice) and cutting (once) I managed to make

>mine look almost as good as what Bernie wanted $8 grand for.

>Mine still look good, although the grills are a little droopy.

>Without frames the screening hooks onto the velcro and stays

>there.I then decided to locate and actually speak to Mark

>Levinson, yep left him a message on his machine, he called

>back, gees was I thrilled. I told him I had some AR-LST's I

>wanted to restore and he said his tweeters were $90. each

>wholesale, but that I'd do better calling AR direct. I did and

>they were $40 each, still high for a newly married man in 1991

>as I needed about 6 of them,I bought two, still have them and

>they're really nice.I'm angry I didn't buy more cause I would

>still have them and she's gone anyway!

>Speaking of rip off's. I just today stupidly bought 2 AR3a's

>on EBay and after I slapped my card down the seller tells me

>they're not what I think there are and is not insuring them

>andsending by the Post Office. They looked really good and

>completely original on the screen here. I'm expecting them in

>about a week, I'll keep this site posted, but I'm scared

>sh--less that I got ripped off again.

>I'll sign off now and go do some listening to vinyl, followed

>buy CD.

>Frank Marsi

Hi again Frank;

I have actually bought 50 - 60 times off ebay in the last 1 1/2 years.

I have consistantly introduced myself to each seller before I start bidding, I also specify mode of shipping and payment method.

I feel this clears the air as I live in Canada and USPS does do an excellent job in my experience.

I also mail a US postal money order, rather that than Paypal or credit card, there is at least a week delivery.

Some will only ship UPS or Fedex which hits us Canadians with a surcharge making the average purchase way too high.

At this point I used to bid as I have been asked to do in a normal auction and sure enough someone comes out of nowhere and swoops in for the final winning bid.

I started trying this and sometimes I win, sometimes I still lose.

I wish I also could post a list of those that did package my purchases the way I would.

I don't think it would be appropriate for me to list those that didn't do the right thing though.

I once received a Dynaco tweeter in a very well packaged carton.

The carton was large, and had sterifoam sheets but the seller never saw what I did, when I opened the box.

The screen of the tweeter acted as a cheese grater and hundreds of tiny pieces of sterifoam stuck to the still sticky dome.

I had a buzzing speaker for a desk paperweight and tossed it.

Because I've been sick for several years I didn't have the strength to stand up and fight for my rights, then.

At least one or more members of this site are buyers or sellers on ebay and without mentioning names, can be trusted without hesitation.

Buying off ebay for me has been a positive experience overall with only a few negative experiences.

Those buyers in the USA have an advantage of lower shipping costs.

The AR-3A's are 60 pounds each crated roughly and USPS has a weight limit.

Are you referring to the pair that appeared to have black frames on their front?

After all these years a little wear and tear can be anticipated on the cabinets.

The pots can be taken care of, as can the surrounds.

I do get a chance to chuckle when I see a badly nippled 3/4" dome tweeters and the seller says no audible difference.

So much for dispersion.

If you have photos of the ones you bought please post them.

I am sure there isn't a member here that hasn't followed your steps.

Good luck with your new purchases.

[dynaco_dan]

Hi again:

I always remember something else after I've saved a file.

Your photo is not viewable for some reason.