Jump to content

Removing old hot glue


Stephen M

Recommended Posts

Hi,

I have a general question about removing old hot glue from my AR-3a Improved crossovers. I'm re-capping them, and there is a huge amount covering the switch and terminal posts that I need to remove. I've tried using my soldering iron to soften the glue and then tease out the wires, but I've realised that I need to remove it and clean up the residue so the solder will stick when I install the new caps.

Are there any tricks to doing this? I have a heat gun but am hesitant to heat up all the components on the crossover.

I've attached a photo with an arrow pointing to the blob in question.

Cheers

Stephen1209720598_InkedAR3aCrossover_LI.thumb.jpg.d2b00b74313ac4b74598f4d3d25fcd96.jpg

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

In my direct experience, that type of glue (the speakers should be the series assembled in England or Holland) was also on my AR3a imp. and on pair of AR18 it is almost impossible to remove without ruining the hidden components.
In my case with considerable difficulty I had removed only the one that blocked the capacitors to be replaced and discovering the wires (as well as fine removal of the residues with strong thinner) in order to then be able to weld the new capacitors correctly.
The glue used in the speakers made in the USA is much easier to remove and used in smaller quantities!
I am attaching the photos of an AR3a crossover imp. before and after replacing capacitors (in the other speaker I have not replaced a 10uF capacitor, it was impossible to isolate the wire to solder the new one !!)

7387764_crossprima1.jpg.95a6414afd4d8ff169d270a00b74e407.jpg17982495_crossprima2.jpg.1bc954295637a32263d582380a8ce4cd.jpg

I also have a switch from AR18 (England), removed from the masonite, not even here with the piece in my hands did I manage to remove the glue from the switch body itself, this penetrated the plastic of the switch ...

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Access looks poor ? Gradual removal of sufficient of the hardened glue with a dremel type tool may help to some degree ? You may be able to clear enough away to reveal a decent enough connection/area to solder to.

I have come across this glue in AR 9 speakers, but the access is pretty good for these through the opposing 12" driver holes.

Any work would be much easier if you could remove the whole crossover board, but I am not that familiar with the AR-3a, so maybe this isn't possible ?

Good luck !

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...