Illf8ed

This is R15 in the crossover. White crusty on the outside. Should this be replaced?

I really appreciate the schematics and photos. As suspected above someone in the past rewired these and not to original connections. I want to go back to color coded 18 AWG TEC OFC tinned wire and redo the internals. The risk is going to be running into the reason the past owner did what he did. Has there been any issues with the auto transformers failing? The other components in the crossovers should be available if needed. Induction coils rarely fail. My speakers are 02010 and 02013 serial numbers.

OK got it. One disconnected is the - lead from the mid dome and connects to terminal 9 on the post. The other disconnect is the + lead to the transformer. The schematic show just “2”. Doesn’t look like a post connection. Where does this solder?

If the wires are supposed to be colored, someone has rewired these. you can also see two wires that have come unsoldered. One from the transformer, the other from the top end of the speaker. I need to figured out where these connect.

The mid range switch position does not effect the issue. I did spray Deoxit on the woofer switch with no improvement, but will try again. The odd thing is both speakers are doing the same thing. Also with the hi range in the middle position the woofer works on any switch position.....maybe Deoxit the hi range switch?

Sorry messed up the sentence. With the woofer switch set to pi....and the high range on either -6 db or 0 db, the woofer stops operating.

With the woofer switch set to pi, far left position the woofer and the high range driver switch on either -6db or 0db, far left or far right, the woofer stops operating. It is the same on both speakers. What’s going on?

Nothing about the speakers. I thought Bose tulip stands would work really well with these putting them 18” off the floor.

Caps the same in both cabinets. Tweeter bodies straight, no cracks, but one is missing the dome and wires pulled..see photo. Corner damage does not effect the cabinet...see photo. Burn Mark on the same cab as corner repair. I paid $200 for these then worked on the cabinets....cleaned and Watco Danish Oil. Last photo is the really good cabinet.

More photos.

I pulled the woofer and stuffing out. Cabinets one is very good the other had a back corner damaged that I repaired.

Thank you. Just figuring out what to do with these. Six dead tweeters and Radio Shack woofers means quite expensive to get the speakers back to original working condition. They sound good with a Heil amt connected. If no one wants the mids, I’ll sit on them until deciding to rebuild. There is a set of LST-2 advertised in Atlanta for parts/repair at $1200. Are LST-2 really selling for this much? Photo is of mine. In the meantime, I’m getting the AR-10pi set ready to sell.

Removing this ad. No longer for sale. Is there anyone wanting mid domes. This is from an AR LST-2 and is the same mid as AR-10 & 11. I want $100 per pair and have three pair. All working with measured 1.6 to 1.7 ohm resistance.

Aadams, I’m probably going to sell the set of LST-2 for what I paid. All mids are original and working. I know it depends on the distance between us.

I have two sets of ESS, amt1a and amt1b that I’ve been using for some time. So far have not heard any speakers I like better. The AR 10pi and LST-2 are new to me within the last week. I have not had a chance to refurbish and do an evaluation/comparison with these yet. You saw my other posts.

Thank you for the review on the foam grills. For the price I would want them to be exact. Maybe I’ll do like you and make my own. It’s not the difficult for me.

No grills, but I see an eBay listing for reproductions at $130/pair.

Genek, Exactly. If I go with the LST-2 it will need the original tweeters rebuilt by Chris then find the original 10” woofers. I tried them with some small Heil transformers I have and they sounded pretty good. Aadams, I’m in Stockton, Ca.

Hi, I’m new to this forum. Seeking opinion between these two AR speakers. A week ago I bought both models in not the greatest condition. The AR-10pi drivers are all good and the cabinets are recoverable. The LST-2 also have OK cabinets, but all the tweeters are dead and the woofers are from Radio Shack. I intend to keep only one or the other. Driving them with a Pioneer SX-1010. Which set to keep?

I’m new to this site. Found this string searching for ESS. I am a big fan of these Sacramento made speakers having purchased a pair of ESS amt4 while in the Air Force in Germany in 1976. The truly good models are the ones with the “great Heil” air motion transformer. Here is a photo of my amt1b with that Heil and AR-10pi next to it for size comparison. ESS is still in business in the Los Angeles area, but really expensive. ”Sound as clear as light”

I’m going to try these 10pi comparing to my ESS. They’re going to have to be very good be favorable to the ESS amt1b.

AR55, thank you for that. I just tried these 10pi after putting new surrounds on the woofers. That played for a bit then one speakeR went out and the other played only on the mid dome. Switching the three position impedance controls brought some back. The guy that sold these told me those switches were dirty. If the changing the switch position brings it back it’s not the capacitor, right?

I joined this site a couple of days ago after finding a string about AR LSI-2. I bought a set of LSI-2 and also AR-10pi a week ago. With the 10pi, one has the original cream colored tweeter dome, the other has a replacement newer tweeter with dark grey dome. Is this going to be unbalanced based on above? These speakers are laying on their backs waiting for new woofer surrounds to arrive.