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About DON

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  • Birthday 07/27/1937

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  1. My wife passed away 18yrs. back. Married 36 years and never had a quibble over buying anything I wanted. I had to be careful about talking about something I wanted but was hesitant about buying or one day I'd come home and she would have it gift wrapped laying on the bed. She bought our first CD player, my first auto focus camera and a Pioneer SX1010 receiver that I drooled over. I've gotten into vintage equipment since she's been gone but I'm sure she'd approve of everything I have except for converting the guest bedroom into storage for all my stuff.
  2. crossovers that are the same size as you need are usually available on e-bay. don't pay the high prices some are asking you can get a pair for around $30.
  3. Mafia. I'm probably the last person here to ask for advice on X overs but from what I've read as long as the voltage on a cap meets or exceeds the original voltage you should ok. I've looked closely at the X overs in mine and there are no leaks so I'll just see how they sound after I get the drivers reinstalled. I'll play at low levels at first. If I do decide to do the X overs I'll have to remove them from the cabinets because trifocal glasses are almost useless peering inside these things at angles. I did at least bring them in the house Sunday but that sapped me of energy and the spea
  4. WOW! I'm refoaming my 9s now but I'm limited to 250 watts per channel. Should I push the 9s aside and concentrate on something less power hungry? I do have a couple of amps in the closet that I can bridge and get 600 watts but they'd be looking at some low amperage loads. They're good into 2 amps. Not hijacking the post.........just taking a short hop.
  5. Thanks Tom. You cleared it all up for me. I really do appreciate your very informative explanation of the differences in these woofers. I had incorrectly assumed that the heavier woofer would be stronger. A few stickies on the 5s and 2ax would be very helpful to everyone who isn't working with the AR3a. Don
  6. Thanks rara and Robert. I do know "how" to post photos and I think I finally got one sized correctly ad posted it. My problem is with I Photo and resizing. ra ra the woofer photo you posted is just like the lighter woofer. I haven't weighed these but the weight difference is apparent when i'm handling them. The heavier ones have a somewhat flat dust cap with the handwritten figure 5 on it and the others have a prominent dome. I think maybe I'll just use the heavier one in the 5s. It's just that I'm closer to being ready to putting the woofers in the 2ax. I'll continue my education in
  7. Geez! twenty people don't know anymore than I do? Oh well I'll just use one of each in the 2ax and one of each in the 5s. that should even things out.
  8. I'm getting ready to reassemble my 2ax and 5s and I have three pairs of 10" woofers. Two are the same but the other one is noticeably heavier than the other two. The lighter ones have the magnets edges wrapped with tape. The heavier ones don't have tape and have the numbers 5617347 on the magnet. The lighter ones have nov. 1970 on the magnet but no part number. One set will be used in 2ax and the other in 5s. Should the heavier one go in the 5 or does it matter? Thanks. Don. I'd post photos but I can't get them small enough
  9. You probably know far more than I do about cabinet restoration but I think the cabinet with the water damage can be repaired with clamps and epoxy. I might install a reinforcing brace inside the cabinet along where the miter separated. I have a 5 that was damaged almost as bad and I've got it fixed to the point where all I need to do is some cosmetic touch up. It'll never look like new but fortunately the damage is on the bottom rear corner. I'll be looking forward to seeing your progress on your 4s. Don
  10. I prefer Mortite in the rope form to any other sealer I've used other than an original factory made gasket. I don't have a lot of experience with AR drivers but I've never had a problem getting an acceptable seal. Tightening the bolts as others have explained here is very important in avoiding distortion of the flange which can result in a poor seal or a damaged driver.
  11. Good to hear of another Advent restoration. I bought a few tweeters a couple of years back when they were very cheap and they're all good. As much as I love the ARs I have I always appreciate the simplicity of the Advent when I'm working on them. All of mine have very nice cabinets with either the bull nose or rounded trim and all have nice grilles now. I had to do some minor refinishing and I bought one grille off e-bay and found out that not all Advent grilles are the same size. Once I got over my fear of trying to refoam I found out it's really very easy. Post some photos of your Advent
  12. DON

    AR11 VS AR3a

    Thanks Kent I'll keep Bill in mind if I run into trouble when I try to do them. I'd post photos but resizing them is giving me fits.
  13. I purchased a tweeter that was supposed to be from an AR2Ax that looks just like the ones in these 3s. Nice heavy paper weight since it is not the same as the ones from the 2Ax.
  14. I've just bought a pair of 2ax grilles and the cloth will have to be replaced. On these it looks as if AR cut away some of the material on the sides and just folded them over. Is the material from 123 Stitch very stretchy? The old material on these isn't stretchy at all and is very tight. Sorry....don't mean to hijack this thread.
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